RTZ's 98 4runner

rushthezeppelin

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Been a little lazy about this but figured I would finally start a build thread.

Starting with a 98 4runner SR5 5 speed at 270k with matte black paint job. When I bought it, they had some Monroe Quick Struts on the front and OME 2906 springs with some Freedom Offroad shocks both sitting on I think 2.5" spacers. Rode pretty janky and the shocks were pretty clapped out.
 

rushthezeppelin

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272,200 oil change and clutch MC flush
273k CVs replaced
274k rear axle seals and bearings
275k suspension. Went with OME 881 and Nitrocharger front (about 1.75" over stock) and LC80 front coils with LC80 rear shocks in the rear (about 3.25" over stock). Both are a bit oversprung in anticipation of more weight to come on rig.
277200 oil change M1 high mileage with Ceratec and mt-90 in transmission (60k interval)
277800 rack and pinion with poly bushings, PS fluid reservoir cleaning, OTREs, alignment
278k air filter
279k LCAs with poly bushings, fuel filter, alignment
280k spark plugs and PCV valve
282500 oil change front output shaft seals transfer case oil change
282800 vinyl floor and sound deadening on floor
283300 upstream O2 sensor
285k 99+ intake mod
287k Wildpeak AT3W 255/80r17 (33S) mounted

Just copied the maintenance file I keep on my phone for where I am right now.

Things I forgot to document on there was installing a 10" LCD head unit and putting a short shifter kit in there. Also got a full set of RCI skids early on (engine, trans, transfer case and LCA).
 
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rushthezeppelin

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Upcoming projects/to-do list:
-Bumper and winch, I've already got a HF Badlands Apex 12k and I now have a Addicted Offroad plate bumper on order after having some disagreements with the 4xI plate bumper I got in.
-Install factory locking differential with 4.30 gears, also need to install a front differential with matching 4.30. While I'm in there I'm going to do something about the worn rear control arm bushings. Still debating on exactly what I'm going to do there. Going to also do a full brake flush on this job, hoping I can get rid of my intermittent ABS light doing this.
-Modify radio bezel to get 10" LCD head unit up high, I've got a donor bezel to help with this job.
-Replace radiator. Pretty sure it's the original factory radiator and it's definitely got a little of the classic browning. At least it's a stick so I don't have to worry about pink milkshake. So far I haven't lost a drop of coolant since I got the truck so I know it's not leaking and I also know I don't have any head issues with regards to coolant.
 

rushthezeppelin

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Pics or... well... you know...

Mark
Damn you got me, I made it all up lol. I need to get a new flex shot soon anyway. Perhaps I'll try and grab one tomorrow.
 

Notyourmomslx450

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Gota have pics in a build thread.
 

rushthezeppelin

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You will want 4.56 gears with a manual on 33's. That's what I did.
So far it hasn't been that bad, glad I went with pizza cutters. Way less rotational mass. I definitely have to downshift more on grades but other than that it's doing alright. Should be better once I get my elocker in with 4.30 gears. That's also a lot of money that I don't currently have ><
 

DaveInDenver

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Staying in the power band on the highway is part of it.

However what I notice going up tire sizes in a stick shift is more is what you lose in low range. It tends to stall more. I actually went to 5.29 on 33" but that was with a 22R-E and was way too excessive since I had 4.7 gears in the transfer case.

I'm thinking at least 4.56 and maybe 4.88 in my truck with 33" and that's got a 4.0L, but it's got a ratio spacing challenged 6 speed with a 1st that's just not low enough even stock.
 

Notyourmomslx450

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So far it hasn't been that bad, glad I went with pizza cutters. Way less rotational mass. I definitely have to downshift more on grades but other than that it's doing alright. Should be better once I get my elocker in with 4.30 gears. That's also a lot of money that I don't currently have ><
4.10 to 4.30 won't be all that noticeable.
I've had friends run a 4.10 front and a 4.30 rear for years with no issues. If you re-gear go 4.88 at a min.
I'll echo Dave. Low range is what suffers the most when going with bigger tires and no re-gear.
 

rushthezeppelin

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Staying in the power band on the highway is part of it.

However what I notice going up tire sizes in a stick shift is more is what you lose in low range. It tends to stall more. I actually went to 5.29 on 33" but that was with a 22R-E and was way too excessive since I had 4.7 gears in the transfer case.

I'm thinking at least 4.56 and maybe 4.88 in my truck with 33" and that's got a 4.0L, but it's got a ratio spacing challenged 6 speed with a 1st that's just not low enough even stock.
To be fair I kind of stall a lot anyway lol.

Anyways updates coming soon. I now have Mevotech Supreme rear upper and lower control arms on order. Apparently they are probably the only aftermarket rubber bushing control arms that even come close to rivaling the OEMS, not bad for 240 shipped for 4 arms. Maybe someday I'll do some beefier lowers but I'm not wheeling quite that hard yet. @On the RX is also donating his old adjustable panhard to me, just needs new bushings so I ordered those as well. I'll probably also do either the Eimkeith PCK or a frame drop bracket to correct that (I know the PCK is technically a little better but it's also twice the price and I need to get it welded and painted).

I've got a seal kit for the locker actuator on order. I actually took it apart the other night and other than the seals being pretty old and the grease being dry it was in almost perfect shape. Last night I made some progress on cleaning up the old paper seal for the third a bit more but some of this stuff is stupidly stubborn, probably the original 360k paper seal. Also picked up the front diff from the same donor truck last weekend. it's in great shape as far as I can tell and I've been cleaning it up (it was absolutely caked in road grime, probably never saw a good wash in it's life but it's also nearly rust free). The downside is the drain plug is REALLY stuck. I think it's going to take some welding to get out at this point, tried heat and chissel with no success. I managed to find someone local who not only had the ECGS tool for removing the driver side needle bearing on these clamshells but he also had a spare ECGS bushing so now I won't have to worry about plugging this in and getting that loud whirring noise from worn out needle bearing.

Also have some LEDs and resistors coming in that I will use for my blinkers instead of installing something on the bumper, taking up the small panel below my headlights. DIYing this is WAY cheaper than the premade ones, should be pretty easy to do with my drill press and a step bit.

Last thing, I ordered some front disco sway links, should be in on time for the spooky night run so excited to have the best of both worlds on and offroad.

Somehow my bank account isn't magically dry after all this purchasing. Really helps I guess that I had a bunch of overtime two weeks in a row at the beginning of the month.

Can't wait to have this list that has just stacked up on me start to dwindle again and excited to see how capable the truck will be.
 

rushthezeppelin

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And just to appease y'all, here's a photo with a little flex lol
IMG_20231015_161403967_HDR.jpg
 

rushthezeppelin

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Got some goodies in the past few days

Lower control arms
IMG_20231024_084906223_HDR.jpg


Quick disconnect sway links for the front
IMG_20231024_082248046.jpg


Stuff to create some led turn signals in the filler panel below my headlights in anticipation of my plate bumper.
IMG_20231024_082223448.jpg
 
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rushthezeppelin

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Anyone have tips for wiring 5 lights to one harness in parallel? I plan to solder and heatshrink. Should I maybe use some hot glue in there too since it's going to be a big bundle of wires? Should I have one giant bundle soldered to each wire of the connector or is there a cleaner way to do this?
 

rushthezeppelin

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Well installed the disco links this afternoon. Not sure how I feel about them, totally a pita too install them. Going to let the bushings break in for at least a few days before I try disconnecting and reconnecting them. Hoping they become easy to use as I love the idea of taking them off with no tools while airing down and putting them on airing up. They are also extremely beefy compared to the 2nd Gen rear links I had on there.
 

JadeRunner

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You will want wing nuts on the top of the discos so you can just reach in from the wheel well after connecting the bottom..
 

rushthezeppelin

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You will want wing nuts on the top of the discos so you can just reach in from the wheel well after connecting the bottom..
Yeah, that's how the Yota Nation ones work (those are perpetually out of stock and the guy never responded to emails asking if/when it will be back in stock). I'm heavily leaning towards using a system like that at least on one side, just need to find out the threads on the top nut. My guess would be this guy who makes them didn't want to get sued for completely copying the design of the other one so he created this double pin system that leave the top piece in the sway bar.
 

rushthezeppelin

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Productive day so far. Went and grabbed an extractor set and finally got the drain plug out of my donor front diff. Was scared when it still wasn't budging with a breaker bar with most of my weight. Threw the ugga duggas at it though and it zipped right out.
IMG_20231025_150853152.jpg


Walked inside and then noticed two packages.
IMG_20231025_152550851.jpg

Land tank locker actuator seal kit and bushings for the Sonoran Steel adjustable panhard that @On the RX gave me.

Got the actuator seals all refreshed and new grease in there and tested the motor, all still works including in the diff.
IMG_20231025_163400201_HDR.jpg



Got the new bushings in the panhard too.
IMG_20231025_163409920_HDR.jpg


I might try and get out tonight and at least install the panhard and if time permits the new lower control arms.
 

Notyourmomslx450

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You’re a better man than me. I tested mine. Resealed it, and added fresh oil and sent it. No issues in 6 years.
 

rushthezeppelin

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Lowers and panhard are in. This was frankly the smoothest quickest job I've done in the truck so far. Just used Timmy's trick with ratchet straps and it was very quick and painless. Only took an hour and a half.
IMG_20231025_224941208.jpg

IMG_20231025_225011563.jpg


The rest end is already riding quite noticably better.
 
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