Ptarmigan mods - 1995 FZJ80

[treerootCO]

 

[60wag]

Your rad cap sticker is falling off

The engine looks great - you need a manifold cooking rack as it is clean enough to eat off of.

 

[rover67]

cad plated snackster?

It really looks great Mike

 

[nakman]

Great job, Mike.

 

[subzali]

Yowza. Did you ever find a root cause of the first engine failure?

 

[OilHammer]

Rusty rear heat cooling line was the thinking. It was leaking when the new engine started.

 

[Inukshuk]

Rusty rear heat cooling line was the thinking. It was leaking when the new engine started.

It was NASTY!

 

[treerootCO]

Root cause of the engine failure:

 

[treerootCO]

No more leaks!

Pics of the Duratrac failure

 

[treerootCO]

Fixed the exhaust again. This round we just deleted the flex joints.

 

[treerootCO]

Mod for today thanks to Ige

Part number Strong Arm 4551L-R Gas Charged Hood Lift Support https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/strong-arm-4551l-r-gas.../

$35.10 for both struts. Stonger than stock and a direct swap. The part number above is for both left and right with all the hardware.

Old and new:

 

[Crash]

Lift Support Depot rocks!

 

[Hulk]

Mod for today thanks to Ige

Part number Strong Arm 4551L-R Gas Charged Hood Lift Support https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/strong-arm-4551l-r-gas.../

$35.10 for both struts. Stonger than stock and a direct swap. The part number above is for both left and right with all the hardware.

For hood or back hatch?

 

[treerootCO]

Hood. I'll post up the rear hatch info shortly

$36.45 rear
$35.10 front
-------------
$71.55 total

 

[MDH33]

Lift Support Depot rocks!

hmm, wonder if they have anything to fit 60 series rear hatch??

 

[SteveH]

Cruiseryard has excellent and economical 60-series hatch struts. The hatch opens about 4" higher than stock, so you don't get doinked in the head when you walk past your open hatch.

 

[Crash]

hmm, wonder if they have anything to fit 60 series rear hatch??

Sure they do, Martin - been using them for years. And their prices are tough to beat. Used a pair of worn rear supports on the hood and they've been working for three years in place of the OEM hood support bar and spring counterbalance setup. Required drilling of one rivet and reusing stock parts for a very clean arrangement that keeps the hood up without the sometimes interfering support bar.

 

[DanS]

Sure they do, Martin - been using them for years. And their prices are tough to beat. Used a pair of worn rear supports on the hood and they've been working for three years in place of the OEM hood support bar and spring counterbalance setup. Required drilling of one rivet and reusing stock parts for a very clean arrangement that keeps the hood up without the sometimes interfering support bar.

You didn't go for the "cat launcher" mod? <----search for it on MUD

I did. It's nice.

Dan

 

[Rezarf]

I used the strong arms on my 100... maybe the best $35 spent on the cruiser to date.

 

[treerootCO]

Here is the information on the rears:

McMaster-Carr part number 4138T57 Gas Spring 19.72" Extended Length, 90 lbs. Extension Force https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/1265/=163fj14

94805A110 316 Stainless Steel Thin Hex Nut Super-Corrosion-Resistant, 5/16"-18 Thread Size, Packs of 25 https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3213/=166pmmi

$36.45 rear (including shipping and I bought 25 nuts that you will only need four of)

You have to drill out four rivets and grind down the studs to clear the body. Much stronger than stock and lift the gate about 2" higher. Some have reported that the hatch contacts the body at full extension. Mine appears to be good.

Old and new:

The rivets you need to drill out

removed

stock length stud:

shortened to clear the D-pillar: