Oil and Coolant Mixing

subzali

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Way to go Dave, sorry I don't have anything to help. Hope you get there!
 

DaveInDenver

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Welp, sent and tapped. I lost a couple of mm of thread at the top of and the bolt wobble is pretty concerning. I'm giving about a 2% chance it'll make it to full torque.

IMG_3634_mid.jpg
 

IoN6

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Uuugh. At some point this project will stop kicking you in the chest... I mean, it has to stop eventually. Right?

Helicoil time?
 

tacomaJoe73

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Welp, sent and tapped. I lost a couple of mm of thread at the top of and the bolt wobble is pretty concerning. I'm giving about a 2% chance it'll make it to full torque.

View attachment 128458
can I take the over at a 3% chance of full torque? keep giving r' hell..
 

DaveInDenver

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Tried to run a thread repair into it. It seemed better up until the bolt just stops, hard stop, about 1/2 way down. Tried to chase it and the tap also stops at the same point.

IMG_3635_mid.jpg

I'm afraid I've sufficiently toed the line on ruining the block. At this point there's no way to run a bolt in far enough to even have the bolt head touch the cylinder head, never mind get it to torque. Not sure what I do next since I don't really want to make a decision that totally eliminates a fix in place.

As a bonus feels like a broke a rib when I lost my footing on the ARB leaning over the engine. That friggin' hurt, I most definitely not a kid anymore.
 
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60wag

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The helicoil sounds like the best option if you can't chase the old threads with a tap.
 

jps8460

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A Timesert in the original head bolt size would probably be your best bet.
Agreed. I’ve had mixed luck with helicoils in this application. I e never had an issue with a timesert even though they are 10x the cost.
 

jps8460

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Also the last couple times I’ve done this on a block, I rented a mag base drill. It’s not necessary for the repair, but it makes it way less awkward to drill and it’s generally a lot more perpendicular to the block.

Good luck!! Don’t give up!!
 

DaveInDenver

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Agreed. I’ve had mixed luck with helicoils in this application. I e never had an issue with a timesert even though they are 10x the cost.
Probably where I'm sitting now. Since the Heli-coil kit didn't work and I don't seem to be able to peel it out to try again. I'm going to leave it alone the rest of today and maybe for a while. I mentioned to Marco that I wish I could find a mag drill but couldn't find one yesterday to rent. There's some question as to how true it is at this point. I'm kind of leaning towards stepping back, seeing if I can get the right stuff in hand. A short block is financially an absolute no-go.

Edit to add, you were posting while I was typing. Between maybe walking off center as well as maybe necking down the clear "right" answer is Time cert. It might not be necessary but all the thrashing about like a redneck isn't getting it any closer to being trailworthy and I'm getting pretty frustrated and that isn't helping.
 
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jps8460

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Probably where I'm sitting now. Since the Heli-coil kit didn't work and I don't seem to be able to peel it out to try again. I'm going to leave it alone the rest of today and maybe for a while. I mentioned to Marco that I wish I could find a mag drill but couldn't find one yesterday to rent. There's some question as to how true it is at this point. I'm kind of leaning towards stepping back, seeing if I can get the right stuff in hand. A short block is financially an absolute no-go.
Oh man with O&G and all the construction going on out there, someone surely has one for rent or to lend!
 

DaveInDenver

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Oh man with O&G and all the construction going on out there, someone surely has one for rent or to lend!
We had some at Poma but they're all out in the field and I don't work there anymore to just use one in the shop. But yeah, they're out there but just gotta take a breather from running around like Dave The Headless Chicken.
 

DaveInDenver

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Got the hole cleaned up the other day and I can see the insert down in there. So trying to pick at it to get it to come out. Haven't found the right tool that will grab it.

IMG_3660_mid.jpg

The thinking is if I can get the helicoil out then it might be possible to shorten the tap and get it to run down into the hole enough more so that the bolt will seat down enough to hold the head. The shoulder on the funky fix-a-thred tap has probably made a shelf where the bolt is bottoming about 1/4" too shallow.

IMG_3644_mid.jpg
 

DaveInDenver

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Alright, actual positive ground. Got the old helicoil out so I can attempt to run the tap, maybe shorten it to get the new threads deeper, and set a new insert.

IMG_3671_mid.jpg

FWIW, modified 16d nails and a bench grinder and a needle nose FTW.

IMG_3670_mid.jpg

FVGV6205_mid.jpg
 

tacomaJoe73

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rover67

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don't maybe shorten it, shorten it FOR SURE. you need more (deeper) threads in there tapped to the insert's OD.
 

IoN6

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That is quite the tap. Personally never seen one like that. Great idea, but not great for non-thru holes. Definitely need to chop off the smaller diameter portion or see if you can find a normal STI tap for those inserts.
 

DaveInDenver

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@rover67 exactly. Ran it as made first until it solidly bottomed, cut the M12-1.25 guiding thread completely off. Used a thin wheel on the angle grinder, left the taper on the helicoil STI and dressed 'er up as nice as I could.

IMG_3676_mid.jpg

It aligned fine, cut a few more turns pretty nice, a little resistance but felt smooth like I expected. Set the coil in just below the surface, broke out the tang and even was able to fish it out of the hole.

IMG_3674_mid.jpg

Bolt bottoms in the block now, a solid couple of threads below the deck. This is what it's supposed to look like. I probably should've set the helicoil a little lower but it'll be fine.

IMG_3675_mid.jpg
 
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