new MC diff drop solution - anyone? (ifs warning)

nakman

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So I'm browsing mud again when I should be doing something else... stumble upon Mike's thread on their new diff drop solution

the argument makes sense... even though tbh usually the front skid plate isn't the limiting factor for me and what I choose to drive towards. Anyway we've seen similar approaches to castor correction, panhard rod correction... neat to see it done now with IFS differentials. Curious if anyone has touched one of these? Or is running one? I realize most of us aren't rock crawling IFS rigs.


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IoN6

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The giant slot in the bolt "hole" on the right side is enough for a hard pass from me.
 

nakman

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The giant slot in the bolt "hole" on the right side is enough for a hard pass from me.
you really think that makes a difference? that's like a 1/2" plate.. maybe it makes install easier or something, allowing it to twist a bit.
 

IoN6

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I do.

Any of those bolts loosen a little, which to me seems highly likely given the rigid nature of them. A little bit of slop is going to turn into a lot of slop with a giant slot. At least with a property sized hole you are constrained a little more.

Looked through the pics on mud and it appears they are two "touching" holes instead of a slot.
 

Corbet

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I wonder what the “touching” hole is for? Maybe sight difference in OEM mounting points over all models on the application list?

Anyway the geometry looks pretty solid to me. The general rule is you don’t need a diff drop until 2.5” correct? I don’t really have any plans like that for the 250 as long as I have my 80. But pretty sure Bridger will be chomping at the bit to list his 4Runner soon. The skid plate on that is definitely some low hanging fruit.
 

IoN6

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I wonder what the “touching” hole is for? Maybe sight difference in OEM mounting points over all models on the application list?

Would be my guess. So instead of offering a higher quality product IMO, they took the easy route and slotted up.

I know I am different and difficult, I just prefer to not live and support a world of mediocrity.
 

Runnin on E

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Anybody concerned about the slotted hole, it can be filled with a cut off bolt. Cut the head off and remove the thread portion also, so you have just a short pin of the correct diameter that fills that space. Also use a larger area washer under the attach bolt shown in the picture to hold it in. Best reassemble with loktite too. DONE! Probably about 15 minutes total. I seriously doubt their field testing showed movement but.....
 

Inukshuk

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The giant slot in the bolt "hole" on the right side is enough for a hard pass from me.
Being a Marlin product, I am sure it has a specific reason and, though I am not a machinist, seems like the overlapping holes would retain the bolt.
I wonder what the “touching” hole is for? Maybe sight difference in OEM mounting points over all models on the application list?
@Corbet you and touching holes, again. :ROFLMAO:

Curious in a different way, I read the instructions, and on page 4:

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