I generally do a Wool Wax coat in the fall. I used Fluid Film in the past, which is the same stuff, suspended lanolin goop. Wool Wax seems thicker than Fluid Film and a little cheaper is all.
What chews up frames and panels is rust from the inside. So do this right you need an undercoat gun and a wand to spray inside the frame. The stuff you can see is the last place to rust. I've see really bad frames where it's the paint holding back iron oxide dust and air.
In your case I wouldn't worry, a good cleaning when you get home and back to normal. The problem as I see it is to be useful you need to get the anti-corrosion goop in places where salt and debris don't get cleaned.
The first time I did my undercoat I spent several days power washing the underside like crazy, down inside boxed sections, pulling frame plugs, had the bumpers off. The sand and muck just kept running out, so I kept washing and washing and washing. Then I let it dry a few days, sanded and painted all the rust I could get to. Then sprayed the insides of the frame with a sealing epoxy paint (Eastwood Internal Frame Coat). Let that cure. Only then did I spray the Fluid Film. It was a good two weeks of prep and coat in the garage and my truck was only 42k miles old.
The reason I say all that is once you spray that junk on it makes a mess of little pebbles and bugs stuck in it. It'll end up in your hair and all over your clothes and tools when you work under there. You can wash it mostly off the frame with warm soapy water and some elbow grease. But paint won't stick well unless you really get after the surfaces with solvent and even then it won't stick in corners. This came up when I went to weld reinforcements to my frame later.
So unless I was going to the effort to do it well it's probably more trouble that it's worth in the future for you.
BTW
@allen.wrench, only crimp terminals. Always. Soldering is for 1950s guitar amps and assembling PCB boards.
