FJ40 Spring under lift options

[rover67]

I was looking at MAF's kit that didn't use the shackle reversal.. I don't know if I like the shackle reversal. I looked at it for the 60 and decided against it there also.

After sleeping on it and reflecting on how the suspension on the 60 has changed over the last few years I have realized that custom springs are going to be a better way to go. I want to make sure shackle angles are good basically and it seem like all of the kits don't give me what i'm looking for.

I was on Alcan's site last night for a while reading and learning and was out there this morning taking measurements for some custom springs. I keep flip flopping, but I'm pretty much sold on them now.

I am going to go for a 4" lift and talk to them about load capability and shackle angles. I am not going to load this thing down much so maybe that will allow them to build a 4" lift spring with decent flex.

I was looking around to see if BDS made the late model springs, I wasn't planning on trying to mod the early model stuff to fit. That's why I mentioned them again.

Doing custom springs is there anything other than what they ask for as far as input goes on the alcan site that I need to be aware of? I am going to do more research and call them later today to chat anyways but figured I'd ask you guys too.

 

[Jacket]

I forget - but if you go with 4" springs, isn't there additional "baggage" that comes with it? Like extending brake lines, driveline vibs, caster shims, etc.?

 

[MDH33]

I forget - but if you go with 4" springs, isn't there additional "baggage" that comes with it? Like extending brake lines, driveline vibs, caster shims, etc.?

All that. But not too difficult or expensive to remedy. Driveshafts might need to be rebuilt/lengthened.

I would do a U bolt flip kit as well. Also might consider moving the rear axle back a couple of inches when you do the custom springs too. You could trim/widen the rear fenders since you plan on doing some metal work on it in the future. (Treeroot's 40 comes to mind).

Did you end up scoring the '78 top?

 

[rover67]

I forget - but if you go with 4" springs, isn't there additional "baggage" that comes with it? Like extending brake lines, driveline vibs, caster shims, etc.?

I'm sure there will be this type of work I need to do. the brake lines are junk anyways, and I really can't see doing any kind of lift really without addressing caster angles.

As far as driveshafts go, I don't mind modding the ones I have. That should not be too big of a deal.

 

[rover67]

All that. But not too difficult or expensive to remedy. Driveshafts might need to be rebuilt/lengthened.

I would do a U bolt flip kit as well. Also might consider moving the rear axle back a couple of inches when you do the custom springs too. You could trim/widen the rear fenders since you plan on doing some metal work on it in the future. (Treeroot's 40 comes to mind).

Did you end up scoring the '78 top?

I was thinking about the flip kit. I have it on the rear of the 60 and like it a lot. it will more than likely be in the cards.

did not get the 78 top, but am looking at another. Any Idea how much a top weighs?

 

[MDH33]

did not get the 78 top, but am looking at another. Any Idea how much a top weighs?

I would guess 150-200Lbs. ? Two people can easily lift and carry one.

 

[Hulk]

did not get the 78 top, but am looking at another. Any Idea how much a top weighs?

Heavy enough that when you remove it you feel like you just got a 20 HP boost. I always removed mine with 3 people: one inside the vehicle and two on either side. The top with the side panels on is heavy and enormous. Since I stopped using my 40 as a daily driver, I have never put the hard top back on -- most of it is stored in my crawl space.

Brake lines are easily extended. I lengthened my rear drive shaft when I did the 4" lift. The front one was fine. I put 4 degree caster shims in the front, which made a HUGE difference in drive-ability on road. I highly recommend this.

Your plan for an Alcan lift sounds like a good one. Build it the way you want it from the start.

 

[MDH33]

Since I stopped using my 40 as a daily driver, I have never put the hard top back on -- most of it is stored in my crawl space.

There's your top Marco, even matches your paint scheme!

 

[Air Randy]

At one time or the other I think I've had just about every suspension option on my 40 so hers my two cents:

1-I started off with the MAF 4" SUA suspension. Rode worse than a dump truck and I had driveline vibration.

2-I converted to SOA using Alcan springs. Rode MUCH smoother, handled fine in corners (I didn't make it too tall). I rotated the rear diff up, lengthened my DS and converted it to double cardan. I built my own track bar to prevent axle wrap. I lengthened the front DS but did not do a C&T. I clearanced the yoke and it worked OK.

3-Profitt's installed crossover high steering with a saginaw PS box, did a C&T, moved the axle 2.5" forward by flipping the spring and did a shackle reversal. The longer wheel base and flipped shackles improved the ride and handling even more. My OEM PS worked good but Profitt's wanted my stock OEM PS gear really bad for a restoration project.

4-After my Moab roll I decided to go to 60 axles for more width, moved the rear back 2.5" in the process. The slightly longer wheel base further enhanced the ride, going to the wider 60 axles and outboarding the front springs helped the side to side stability immensely.

If you use the proper springs (alcan's built to your spec) you can do a SOA conversion where the lift is only slightly more than your planned 2.5" SUA lift and it will ride much better. You can keep the stock look with 33" tires but still get the benefits of having the U bolts flipped, crossover high steer, etc. To UB's point, if you have the 60 axles already I would go with them and do it right the first time. You'll be much happier if you do.

I saw where some people think doing a SOA is going to result in bad handling, etc. I think if you make sure it's done right you'll be very happy with the end result as far as smoother ride, good handling and enhanced off-road capability. If you decide you want to go with the 60 axles I have a bunch of the new HW left over you need to outboard the front spring perches.

 

[maxsdad]

Randy- Do you think you could post some pictures of your clearenced yoke?

 

[IVANII]

I would like to jump in here and piggy back so I don't have to start a new thread- everyones comments are very helpful to me and I can see alot of VERY smart folks here. I am in the same dilemna as ROVER67 seems to be. I want to lift IVAN but not quite sure where to go. I don't want it huge-nor have to cut it as the metal work is all new. Here are my thoughts: I would like decent road handling but also off-road performance (it doesn't go on narly trails) while fitting 33 x10.5 or 33x11.50 with no rub, and still be able to fit in a 7' garage!! I have narrowed it down to OME 2.5 and HFS 4". I have been told that with OME if the 2.5 is not enough throw a longer shackle on, but there has to be some negative to doing that!?? Also the HFS states theirs will give 3-4" of lift depending on setup?? I have the hardtop-but like to say bye to it in the summer. I would love to check out in person if someone has either of these lifts on...also I bow to all your knowledge that already isn't shared above....THX!

Even if anyone wants to post pics- it may help me!

 

[BreckBJ44]

I have a newer Alcan custom lift and even though I have yet to really test it on more than easy trails and washboarded fireroads and such, it has been a great purchase.

Even though the product is great, whats better is dealing with them. When I first bought the springs, they were not familiar with the BJ44 and had not done too many 4" lifts for the 45 (my rear springs are the same as 45 springs). Also, I was building the rig for more of an expedition style of driving so I wanted more load capacity while keeping the rear height.

So the first set of rears were way to soft and I ended up cancelling a trip as I was worried about driving it that way. Alcan paid to have the springs shipped back to them (after I took them off) and they added more leaves and shipped them back to me. Now the truck has the right load capacity but the height is not there that I wanted under load (I like the truck to have a higher rear end than the front). I contacted charles and he wants me to take a few measurements, lift the rear to where I want it to see if we need to rebuild the rear packs due to the springs not being long enough to take a higher arch.

So, to make a long story longer, the fact that they are willing to go this far to make sure I am happy has made me a lifelong customer.

 

[Rzeppa]

the BJ44 and had not done too many 4" lifts for the 45 (my rear springs are the same as 45 springs).

Just curious - did you have the 9 leaf packs? My 1978 FJ45 has 9 leaf packs. The top 6 are more like a regular 40 pack, but then there are 3 super-thick overload (flat) leaves that go under the main pack. When the bed is empty it has a really harsh ride, but when you get a couple thousand pounds back there it smooths out. My HZJ75 was like that too.

And what is the difference between a 44 and a 45 - a little shorter maybe? I've seen more BJ43s than 44s and was curious.

 

[mbella1]

I have added a couple of pics. have an OME 2 1/2" with 15" Pro Comp Wheels with a 3 1/2" back space. I just put on the 33x12.50x15 and have plenty of room for full turns. I do have power steering, so that makes the turning easier. I could fit in a 7' garage if I didn't have my rack on top. Good luck.

 

[BreckBJ44]

I have 11 or so leaves now. I never saw the stock ones as when i bought the rig, it had rearched or aftermarket crap on it. horrible ride and tons of sway.

The 44 is the same as the 43 in the body. 7-8 inches longer wheelbase thatn a 40. The 45/47 are the troopy length.

She is bouncy when unladen, but I tend to have around 2-400 lbs in the rig at all times with two dogs and tools and other gear of some sort.

 

[Rzeppa]

I have 11 or so leaves now. I never saw the stock ones as when i bought the rig, it had rearched or aftermarket crap on it. horrible ride and tons of sway.

The 44 is the same as the 43 in the body. 7-8 inches longer wheelbase thatn a 40. The 45/47 are the troopy length.

She is bouncy when unladen, but I tend to have around 2-400 lbs in the rig at all times with two dogs and tools and other gear of some sort.

Hi Kraig,

Wow that sounds crazy? 11 leaves?

Okay, then that is roughly as I remember the 44 as being about the same as a 43. So what is the difference between a 43 and a 44?

While Toyota normally used the numerals to designate body style along with the suffix letters, it also designated frame length. Both the BJ/HJ45 Troopie and Pickup shared the same frame but had different bodies, as did the FJ45 pickup and wagon (P, LV respectively). A departure from this convention was 1983's introduction of the HJ47 pickup, with the frame, cab and bed virtually indistinguishable from the prior year's FJ45 but with the 2H powerplant instead of the 3B or 2F.

Back to your original question, I believe I posted somewhere on this thread about 30 pages back about the mild lift I put on my 71 FJ40 for real cheap. I don't know if the Rancho j**p add-a-lift solution will work on a 44; however I got enough inches to clear BFG 33x10.50s without fender trimming or excessive rubbing (only spot is pitman arm on my stock manual setup). And that's not even excessive, it only comes into play under full stuff and full left turn.

 

[rover67]

Hey Jeff, how much did you lower the bump stops in the front?

My 33 9.50's rub a lot at full stuff with the stock bump stops.

 

[Rzeppa]

Hey Jeff, how much did you lower the bump stops in the front?

My 33 9.50's rub a lot at full stuff with the stock bump stops.

I did not lower them at all, they are still factory. As I wrote, all I get is an occasional rub at the pitman arm pivot under full stuff while pulling a hard left. It just cleans the dirt off, ya know?

 

[BreckBJ44]

The number system really is added by major overhauls of the driveline and amenities based on chassis.. They then use designators like the V for Van or hardtop, etc.

For example, the first bodies were the 40, 43 and 45. These are respectively SWB, MidWB and LWB. When the major overhaul happened worldwide, we got the BJ42 (five speed and 3B from the B engine) the BJ44/46 (44 was the 2b and Japan Only while the 46 was 3B and worldwide - except us) and the 47 (H to 2H engine and 5 speed). The 44 is a wierd animal as it has some of the parts from a 43 and some from a 46. They also did this with the japan only BJ41 that had the 2B engine as well. Mine has the 2B, H41 and no full floater, but does have the silver dash panel that came out here in 1983.

HTH.

Marco, let me know if you have any questions about the alcan build and such. Once I get it all dialed in (and correct my other issues) I'll let you know how I really like them!

K

 

[IVANII]

I have added a couple of pics. have an OME 2 1/2" with 15" Pro Comp Wheels with a 3 1/2" back space. I just put on the 33x12.50x15 and have plenty of room for full turns. I do have power steering, so that makes the turning easier. I could fit in a 7' garage if I didn't have my rack on top. Good luck.

Thanks alot! BTW...Beautiful looking '40 You don't rub in the rear at all? I do like the stance that the OME gave you.