Electrical cleanup solutions?

[On the RX]

My terminals on my battery were a mess when I had two sets of lights and a winch connected to them. I have been looking at bus bars and fuse boxes to keep this mess from happening again as I get ready to install all this stuff over again. I have looked at so much stuff that I am now deep in the rabbit hole with no end in sight.
I will be running two 8 inch IPF lights, two PIAA fogs and a m8000 winch with plans to run some exterior side and rear led floods in the future. What do i really need?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[74fj40]

I would absolutely run the winch directly to the battery, and only to the side terminals if they are bridges to the top posts. Also, an S-pod or something similar will make all your lighting a breeze and very clean.

 

[Rezarf]

I went all the way down and found the rabbit. Dual battery system.

You are at the point where you will benefit from a second fuse block. Blue Sea Systems makes some of the best. Bussman is the parent company (often had for cheaper).

There are a lot of new products to consider that are an all in one unit that allow you to hook up Pos/Neg and go... most run off an app on the phone. I prefer a hard mount and switch but maybe I've become old school. Anytime I can away from my phone I am glad to, I certainly don't want it to be a requirement to have it on me while camping/wheeling.

WhiteWings did a write up on a inexpensive unit he tried a few months ago. Search will reveal the thread quick I bet.

Here is what I installed, basically I have a new separate electrical system for all my "gadgets" like lots of lights, HAM Radio, fridge, compressor etc. This way I can run all that crap while camping and not drain my main battery, however a second battery isn't necessary until you have parasitic draw from gadgets that consume power when the truck is off... like camping lights while parked or a fridge that runs 24/7

 

[DaveInDenver]

FWIW, Cooper/Bussman has no connection to Blue Sea. The parent company of Blue Sea is Power Products, who also owns Ancor, Gardner-Bender, Lenco, Mastervolt and a bunch of other brands.

Blue Sea components are sometimes the same part as offered somewhere else, such as the MRBF types are actually an Eaton (Bussman) product and the ML-ACR is similar to a bi-stable relay that Littelfuse sells. It pays to shop around, since Blue Sea having done the legwork means they are usually the most expensive option.

 

[LARGEONE]

That is bad ass Drew. What is the sheathing you use on your cables?

 

[Corbet]

Drew that is nice and clean.

Switch-Pros offers a clean solution to accessory switching. It seems really expensive but after you look at all it does, its just kind of expensive. However, it looks really nice. I'm considering it now for my rig. Slee is listed as a dealer so you could go get some hands on there.

I run a Blue Sea fuse block for my interior accessories. And a circuit breaker like in Drew's picture to protect the fuse block. I only have one pair of lights which I'm currently using the supplied harness wired direct to my battery that I don't care for. (harness is fine, direct to battery don't like)

Winch should be direct to battery or very nearly so. I would not run a fuse but a cut off switch of you don't want the current running there all the time. A battery cut off switch is actually in my plans as after my electrical fire experience I wished I had one.

As is a dual battery with a Blue Sea charging system. Then I'll move all my interior accessories over to the 2nd battery and only run the OEM and lights off the primary. Winch to both of course.

 

[DaveInDenver]

That is bad ass Drew. What is the sheathing you use on your cables?

There's several options for braided wire sheath. I suggest the high temperature option if you're going to the trouble.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Loom-&-Loom-Clamps/

 

[Inukshuk]

I will post pics of my "buss" bar when I can. I just re-did battery cables and hooked up a winch. I have had sub-fuse panels for years. A few years ago I added MRBF fuses. A cutoff switch for the winch is in the plan too.

I sheathed and loomed all cables. Bought sheath on Amazon. I bought 50' of 3/4 loom (non-split) at DelCity 779US $23.11 High-Temp Non-Split Loom, 3/4" (50 ft. MIN) for a few bucks. You can have my leftovers for a six-pack.

Flame Retardant & Halogen Free Color Braided Sleeving
by Electriduct Link: http://a.co/gSHgX7k

TEMCo 3/4" Marine Heat Shrink Tube 3:1 Adhesive Glue Lined 4 ft RED
Temco Link: http://a.co/3yS8mn6

 

[nakman]

Consider some type of non-conductive protection on top the bus bar, like zip tie an old bike tire, repurposed koozie, even something you have to pay for... it's a big conductive contact area full of energy. Dropped wrenches, dropped dip sticks, or a loose battery tie down>pothole>roof contact are great ways to release that energy in exciting new ways. If the truck's running, there's almost never enough time to get the fire extinguisher before damage occurs.

 

[On the RX]

I will post pics of my "buss" bar when I can. I just re-did battery cables and hooked up a winch. I have had sub-fuse panels for years. A few years ago I added MRBF fuses. A cutoff switch for the winch is in the plan too.

I sheathed and loomed all cables. Bought sheath on Amazon. I bought 50' of 3/4 loom (non-split) at DelCity 779US $23.11 High-Temp Non-Split Loom, 3/4" (50 ft. MIN) for a few bucks. You can have my leftovers for a six-pack.

Flame Retardant & Halogen Free Color Braided Sleeving
by Electriduct Link: http://a.co/gSHgX7k

TEMCo 3/4" Marine Heat Shrink Tube 3:1 Adhesive Glue Lined 4 ft RED
Temco Link: http://a.co/3yS8mn6

I would love to see some photos of that! And I may take you up on the wiring however I'm not sure if I need it quite yet.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[On the RX]

Consider some type of non-conductive protection on top the bus bar, like zip tie an old bike tire, repurposed koozie, even something you have to pay for... it's a big conductive contact area full of energy. Dropped wrenches, dropped dip sticks, or a loose battery tie down>pothole>roof contact are great ways to release that energy in exciting new ways. If the truck's running, there's almost never enough time to get the fire extinguisher before damage occurs.

This is one of my biggest concerns with a bus bar. It's like have the hot plate exposed on your house panel! I feel like I saw some with covers. This is also why I considered some fuse blocks instead of the bar.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[Inukshuk]

its a piece of EPDM roofing. Buss bar is garage door mounting metal.

I'd rather have some sort of bar stock with threaded holes I could put a bolt or stud into.

This is a Deka intimidator with threaded posts. I don't see why anyone would want those soft lead terminals.....