Dad's 1978 FJ40

Nate

Lifted
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
177
Location
Aurora, CO
Are you sure you are not 180 out on the distributor, I have had engines act like this when they are 180 out? You can check by rotating the engine until you are on the timing mark on the flywheel and if the first and second rockers are not in contact with the valve and the rotor is roughly pointing at the #4 plug you are at TDC.
@Capriblue45, I am not certain of anything at this point. lol. Here are the photos I took when I set the distributor right before this video was taken. Looks right to me, but maybe the first valve is not quite right?

20241118_124716.jpg

20241118_124658.jpg


20241118_124726.jpg
20241118_124650.jpg
 

Capriblue45

Rising Sun Member
Joined
May 28, 2023
Messages
259
did you confirm the rotor is aligned with the #1 plug wire location on the distributor cap and confirm firing order. Sounds as though it is defiantly something to do with timing.
 

Nate

Lifted
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
177
Location
Aurora, CO
I made a mark on the distributor at cap location one. Set oil pump to pump just #4 plug and set the rotor to point between 3 and 4. Once seated the rotor clicked to line up with 4...wait I wonder if I have the rotor clocked backwards. Is that what you mean by 180⁰ off?
 

Nate

Lifted
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
177
Location
Aurora, CO
It looked like this but that photo is from yesterday when it wasn't even trying to start. Is that looking correct for rotor orientation?
1000040228.jpg
 

Capriblue45

Rising Sun Member
Joined
May 28, 2023
Messages
259
yes that is what I mean by 180 off if the rotor is roughly pointing at the #4 plug location on the side of the block and that location on the cap goes to #1 plug while the 1st 2 rockers can be wiggled you are NOT 180 out and might just need to advance the distributor a bit.
 

Capriblue45

Rising Sun Member
Joined
May 28, 2023
Messages
259
Can you see fuel in the float bowl through the glass at the front of the carb. Should roughly be at the midway of the glass.
 

Nate

Lifted
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
177
Location
Aurora, CO
Yeah. I have fuel in the bowl. Can see thru the glass that is about half full. Advancing is done by rotating the distributor clockwise right? I tired fiddling with after I loosened the retainer bolt. Definitely got worse when I rotated CCW.
 

Capriblue45

Rising Sun Member
Joined
May 28, 2023
Messages
259
CCW advances the timing on a 2F engine. Here is a diagnostic method from a Haynes manual.
 

Attachments

  • timing 1.jpg
    timing 1.jpg
    127.1 KB · Views: 15
  • timing 2.jpg
    timing 2.jpg
    148.5 KB · Views: 15

Capriblue45

Rising Sun Member
Joined
May 28, 2023
Messages
259
Nate I watched your video again this morning and noticed that your choke plate is full open while attempting to start the truck. All of my 2F's have needed to be fully choked for a cold start. My ritual on them is pull choke, pump twice and turn the key.
 

Nate

Lifted
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
177
Location
Aurora, CO
I adjust the time by rotating the distributor CW a bit more and it fire right up and will rev with the gas pedal. New issue. The engine does as soon the key springs back to the On position. I missed a wire somewhere, so back to wiring diagrams to sort it out. @wesintl & @Capriblue45 thanks for all the advice. I'll keep updating.

Honestly think I'm going to just switch over to pertronix and their associated coil.
 

Capriblue45

Rising Sun Member
Joined
May 28, 2023
Messages
259
sounds like the coil is only hot on crank and not getting power in the on position.
 

Nate

Lifted
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
177
Location
Aurora, CO
Still no joy with the running part, but the starting part worked. It fires like a brand-new truck, even with the choke open. No issues. I can even rev the engine. As soon as I let the key back to the on position it dies. I suspected the ignitor. It looks nothing like the photos of the ones in the FSM. I spent some time with Grok AI and even uploaded Coolerman's wiring diagram. I finally fed it the prompt below and came up with this (which I already verified using the FSM test procedure). So, two salient points here: 1: my ignitor is bad so I've ordered a Pertronix system and coil. 2: I've used both Copilot and Grok AI as mechanic advisors and with some specific prompts, they have been extremely helpful.


1732479036581.png

^Failed this test from the 2F FSM.

1732478817194.png

Grok confirming what I am seeing.
 

wesintl

RS Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
8,686
Location
in da house
Way back when i blew an ignitor. I had heat into the coil and out but just not enough to spark. So i could never get it to catch. Do you have constant heat to the coil when it's in the on position vs start? Could it be the aftermarket wiring? I'm assuming you are getting spark when cranking?
 

Nate

Lifted
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
177
Location
Aurora, CO
Way back when i blew an ignitor. I had heat into the coil and out but just not enough to spark. So i could never get it to catch. Do you have constant heat to the coil when it's in the on position vs start? Could it be the aftermarket wiring? I'm assuming you are getting spark when cranking?
Yeah. 12v at the coil, spark on all plugs when cranking and it runs until the key springs back. I am nearly positive it is the ignitor, I chased the wiring again, found one I missed and ran it with no change, which as into this is weird. Was the Coil + to starter wire. 🧐
 

Nate

Lifted
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
177
Location
Aurora, CO
Update...way back in the transmission rebuild part of the thread when I was working with @JohnnyP he gave me some advice. I took and filed it away and did not follow it, wanting to keep as much stock as possible. He advised getting the Pertronix on board with the City Racer 2F/3F distributor. All the starting problems were related to that. I was a tooth of as well as noted by @wesintl, so after resetting the distributor more than once and switching out to the Pertronix electronic ignition and 30k V Coil.

This engine fired up like a brand-new truck...as shown in the video, I am running open headers right now since the exhaust is still on the list of jobs to tackle.

I was so freaking excited, jumping up and down and yelling. Thanks for the help guys. Can't wait to bring this thing to a meeting in the spring.

 
Last edited:

Nate

Lifted
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
177
Location
Aurora, CO
Update...way back in the transmission rebuild part of the thread when I was working with @JohnnyP he gave me some advice. I took and filed it away and did not follow it, wanting to keep as much stock as possible. He advised getting the Pertronix on board with the City Racer 2F/3F distributor. All the starting problems were related to that. I was a tooth of as well as noted by @wesintl, so after resetting the distributor more than once and switching out to the Pertronix electronic ignition and 30k V Coil.

This engine fired up like a brand-new truck...as shown in the video, I am running open headers right now since the exhaust is still on the list of jobs to tackle.

I was so freaking excited, jumping up and down and yelling. Thanks for the help guys. Can't wait to bring this thing to a meeting in the spring.


Is the video not running for you all?
 
Top