Already have a problem with the Sequoia I just bought.....

J1000

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Not doing It on cold start or gear shifting.
Hot restart problems are MAF and TB related most likely on a 2UZ. Can also cause a weak idle, stalling while turning the steering wheel or shifting from park to gear etc. It takes 10 minutes and is super cheap and easy. Just get a can of MAF cleaner and a couple rags to wipe the TB clean. 2UZ idle control uses the TB so even the smallest bit of crud can mess with it.
 

rushthezeppelin

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Hot restart problems are MAF and TB related most likely on a 2UZ. Can also cause a weak idle, stalling while turning the steering wheel or shifting from park to gear etc. It takes 10 minutes and is super cheap and easy. Just get a can of MAF cleaner and a couple rags to wipe the TB clean. 2UZ idle control uses the TB so even the smallest bit of crud can mess with it.
It doesn't have a weak idle, it was while driving hot as well as hot restarts, it would stall going straight down the road. I'm definitely going to clean it, should still have some TB and MAF cleaner at home but I'm not convinced it's that simple.
 

J1000

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It doesn't have a weak idle, it was while driving hot as well as hot restarts, it would stall going straight down the road. I'm definitely going to clean it, should still have some TB and MAF cleaner at home but I'm not convinced it's that simple.
That plus the bad plugs could definitely do that. Would it stall while driving when you were on the throttle accelerating or when you lift off the throttle/coast?

My father in law bought a 07 Sequoia for $3k because it was acting up and throwing all sorts of codes and would barely drive. I cleaned the MAF and TB and it ran like a top.
 

rushthezeppelin

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That plus the bad plugs could definitely do that. Would it stall while driving when you were on the throttle accelerating or when you lift off the throttle/coast?

My father in law bought a 07 Sequoia for $3k because it was acting up and throwing all sorts of codes and would barely drive. I cleaned the MAF and TB and it ran like a top.
Coasting and on the throttle. First time was coasting in a parking lot and other times are driving down the road.
 

HDavis

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How is the health of the battery? I've seen weird stuff like this happen when the battery is bad too, even if it starts every time and doesn't seem like the battery is bad.
 

rushthezeppelin

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How is the health of the battery? I've seen weird stuff like this happen when the battery is bad too, even if it starts every time and doesn't seem like the battery is bad.
Well the battery did have a fair amount of green cancer when I bought it. It started and ran though so I didn't think too much of it but I did clean up the terminals and connectors yesterday.
 

rushthezeppelin

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The plot thickens. I got those coils of @Pz10420 and installed (3 that I put in the cylinders with codes) them and it stalled about 50 yds out of my driveway on a cold engine. It did start back up and got a half mile or so and stalled again.
 

Squishy!

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That is fine IMHO and in fact my Tacoma had NGK on one bank and Denso on the other. That apparently was common back then for some reason.
It had to do with supplier agreements. I don't remember the specifics, but all 3.4's came with both afaik
 

rushthezeppelin

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Well I'll be looks like it might have been air after all. Throttle body and filter were pretty dirty.
IMG_20240422_170942036.jpg

IMG_20240422_171001272_HDR.jpg

Cleaned MAF and TB and headed down to O'Reilly's to grab a filter. She stalled one last time pulling in. Grabbed a filter and got battery tested (was fine at least according to their tester). Drive off and she felt a bit rough but otherwise continued running. Drive around for another 30-40 minutes and she smoothed out more. Guessing she was remapping. But yeah, no stealing anymore so far. Haven't jumped on a highway yet but she did fine up to 55. I got really sidetracked with those coil codes but they did lead me to those plugs that clearly needed attention. Obviously I will be going through more systems here and baselining but she's running consistently it looks like.
 

HDavis

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Well I'll be looks like it might have been air after all. Throttle body and filter were pretty dirty.
View attachment 129303
View attachment 129304
Cleaned MAF and TB and headed down to O'Reilly's to grab a filter. She stalled one last time pulling in. Grabbed a filter and got battery tested (was fine at least according to their tester). Drive off and she felt a bit rough but otherwise continued running. Drive around for another 30-40 minutes and she smoothed out more. Guessing she was remapping. But yeah, no stealing anymore so far. Haven't jumped on a highway yet but she did fine up to 55. I got really sidetracked with those coil codes but they did lead me to those plugs that clearly needed attention. Obviously I will be going through more systems here and baselining but she's running consistently it looks like.
WOW. That's one dirty filter. Did the previous owner look like this?
1713836622949.jpeg
 

subzali

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IoN6

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The concentrated dirt/oil combo on the outside of the throttle body would suggest there is a leak as well. That engine bay does not look well maintained to me, but I am quite cynical.

Do not want to be a Debbie Downer, but do not count your chickens before they hatch. Spend the couple hundred on a FSM and be methodical about isolating each possible source of trouble. Throwing parts at it will get expensive and likely not solve your problems in the end. Speaking from experience with hesitation issue on my 80. Not sure why the search function is coming back with nothing, but it took almost 2 years to solve.

[edit]
Found it :sick:: https://risingsun4x4club.org/xf/threads/obd1-1fz-fe-troubleshooting-help.29130
[/edit]
 

rushthezeppelin

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The saga continues. Has a couple of beers with a friend and was going to jump on 470 to get her up to speed and didn't even make it a couple of miles......
 

rushthezeppelin

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@bh4rnnr has seen worse :bolt:
I've seen worse when I was a lube tech. So I've eliminated air and spark it seems. That leaves fuel and PCM.....hopefully it's the fuel filter but the symptoms match up more to pump or PCM
 
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HDavis

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I've seen worse when I was a live tech. So I've eliminated air and spark it seems. That leaves fuel and PCM.....hopefully it's the fuel filter but the symptoms match up more to pump it PCM
Is the battery the same that was in the 4runner? Might be an easy test to rule out the battery. Could also be a loose ground.
 

rushthezeppelin

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Is the battery the same that was in the 4runner? Might be an easy test to rule out the battery. Could also be a loose ground.
I mean she cranks good and strong even when she's not to actually starting.
 
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rushthezeppelin

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Well I let her cool. Code popped for just 2. Drive a few miles and again with 4 and 7
 

rushthezeppelin

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Tried to get it home, died a mile away after I got stuck behind a school bus. Went and grabbed my 4runner battery, still crank no start when warmed up so that's one more variable eliminated.
 

rushthezeppelin

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