Adventures in 4Runner'ing

ScaldedDog

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Not to belabor the obvious, but it'll be slower with one case in high and the other in low, than when that combination is reversed. Slowest engaged case has the 4.70's in it.

Mine doesn't see a lot of pavement, but you're welcome to come down and drive it around the 'hood if you want something to compare yours to.

Mark
 

DouglasVB

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I can't engage the front case into low gear alone unfortunately (see previous video). The rear does feel like 2.28:1 gearing though.

My desire for twin transfer cases is so I don't have to slip the clutch so much this season. So for cases where I need to go slow, put it in super or ultra low and away I go :)
 

DaveInDenver

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I can't engage the front case into low gear alone unfortunately (see previous video). The rear does feel like 2.28:1 gearing though.

My desire for twin transfer cases is so I don't have to slip the clutch so much this season. So for cases where I need to go slow, put it in super or ultra low and away I go :)
You should never slip your clutch anyway. Trust your engine. Let it chug, it doesn't want to stop running and won't let you down. Even (and maybe especially) with lower gears you don't want to get in the habit of jerky application of power since the impulse in power is how you break stuff. You're doing it right IMHO if the carpet under your dead pedal has a worn section from your heel. Even if the engine does die you shouldn't be disengaging the clutch. That's why Toyota put the clutch defeat switch in there. You start the engine in gear.
 

DouglasVB

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On the gold truck, the only way to do some of it was slipping the clutch. Bone stock everything. Otherwise momentum was king!
 

DaveInDenver

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On the gold truck, the only way to do some of it was slipping the clutch. Bone stock everything. Otherwise momentum was king!
No, that's not true. Imelda was stock gearing most of the 15 years I had it. It ran a 4.70 single case for 2008 and part of 2009. With 33" tires I had 5.29 gears but otherwise it was 4.10 and even slightly oversized tires (30x9.50) and single 2.28. The 22R-E will pull you through a lot more than you think it will. I did have that OME suspension so suspension was more flexy (a little at least) than stock.

Of course at some point there's just not enough power and suspension travel but it's just bad habit to disengage the clutch when you're close to or actually stalling. You want the truck to just stop in place and the engine compression to prevent you from rolling backwards while your brain sorts it out. The torque of the starter will move you forward as the engine catches.
 

DouglasVB

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The starter never moved me forward on the gold truck. I tried. It was an aftermarket starter that didn't give the oomph necessary. I've tried out the clutch cancel starter trick in DanS's 4runner so I know what it feels like. I have a Nippon Denso in my garage that would have gone into the gold truck if I had kept it so I would have the starter for this summer.
 

ScaldedDog

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I can't engage the front case into low gear alone unfortunately (see previous video). The rear does feel like 2.28:1 gearing though.

My desire for twin transfer cases is so I don't have to slip the clutch so much this season. So for cases where I need to go slow, put it in super or ultra low and away I go :)
Sorry. Since that's what the discussion is about, I should have known that. :-)

Mark
 

DouglasVB

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Sorry. Since that's what the discussion is about, I should have known that. :-)

Mark

Hah I can barely follow all the twists and turns of this nearly 60 page long thread and I'm half of the conversation!

I called down to Slee Offroad to see if they can help with the T-Case problems. They said they can but they can't quote anything because they don't do this work frequently enough. I'm going to take the truck by there tomorrow afternoon and talk more in person. The problems I see possibly arising are:

  • Some 23 spline thing going on in the middle of the case (I do have all of the parts to do a dual t-case setup so I could bring parts to Slee for them to finish it off)
  • Spline count on output shafts is funny and somehow causes a problem switching the internal gears around?
  • More seals and gaskets are needed than I have on hand and than I could get from Stevenson Toyota

I think the main issue is if there's a funky 23 spline issue. Are there any other things I'd need to worry about? Any idea how long the job would take a shop like Slee? They quoted me their hourly rate so I know what that is.

I'd rather get it done in town (Slee is a mile from my office) even if it costs a bit more because I don't have the time to drive far away and have my girlfriend follow me, pick me up, bring me back, etc. I can't really do it myself due to garage issues. I'd rather get it solved sooner than later.

I do have all the necessary fluids already and one set of gaskets and seals plus the 4.70:1 gears for a 21 spline application and 2.28:1 gears for a 21 spline application. Also a donor T-case. Also a spare set of twin sticks.

It sucks not having persistent garage access at home! :rant:
 

White Stripe

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I just went wheelin with Joe and I mentioned you bought a new rig and don't need an estimate after all for a solid axle. Congrats on the new runner
 

DouglasVB

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I just went wheelin with Joe and I mentioned you bought a new rig and don't need an estimate after all for a solid axle. Congrats on the new runner

Thanks! It completely slipped my mind to give him a call back after Townsend's white 4runner landed in my lap. Does Joe have a favorite type of:beer:? I feel bad about it and want to make it up to him.
 

MountainGoat

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Does Joe have a favorite type of:beer:? I feel bad about it and want to make it up to him.

I'm pretty sure I saw him with a can of Coors Banquet beer in his hand at Cruise Moab. :D
 

White Stripe

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Ya he does like Coors lol. Honestly l think buying a built rig is far better of a route economically. Now you just have odds and ends to take care of to make it yours.
 

DouglasVB

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Okay guys don't let me forget to bring some Coors Banquet to the next meeting for Joe! I'm counting on all of us to help me remember :)
 

DouglasVB

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Hmm so here's something to puzzle over... I got a new OEM radiator cap for the 4runner and it doesn't fit. They're completely different caps. The radiator that's in the truck bolts in where it should. I'm pretty darn sure I have a 22RE motor. Any ideas? Maybe out of a later pickup?

jsrLBUT.jpg
 

nuclearlemon

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Hmm so here's something to puzzle over... I got a new OEM radiator cap for the 4runner and it doesn't fit. They're completely different caps. The radiator that's in the truck bolts in where it should. I'm pretty darn sure I have a 22RE motor. Any ideas? Maybe out of a later pickup?

jsrLBUT.jpg

is the oe too small? if so, you have an aftermarket radiator. they used to require larger caps. i don't think the aftermarket ones do now, but i'm betting the rad was swapped out in the past.
 

DouglasVB

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Yup the OE is too small. I figured it out by going to a parts store and rummaging around. A Murray 7616 cap fit. That fits across a bunch of mid 90s Chevy pickup engine radiators. So yup! Aftermarket radiator. The pressure relief valve is set to 16 PSI rather than the stock 13 PSI. Hopefully that doesn't impact anything.

I wonder what other surprises are in store. Maybe not really 5.29:1 gears? Maybe a dash panel full of drugs? So exciting! I never know what's around the next corner.
 

DaveInDenver

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I used Performance Radiators in Imelda and the OE caps fit fine.

My guess is the only real negative to bumping up the cap pressure might be bursting a hose or finding leaks sooner than you might normally.
 

Notyourmomslx450

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A bigger cap won't hurt anything. You'll be fine. It could be a 3 core radiator out of a v6 truck/4runner maybe
 

DaveInDenver

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A bigger cap won't hurt anything. You'll be fine. It could be a 3 core radiator out of a v6 truck/4runner maybe
It's the same cap for both 22R-E and 3VZ-FE, Toyota p/n 16401-63010. AFAIK that's the same cap for all 1979-1995 trucks and 4Runners and a bunch of other 1980s and 1990s Toyota cars, like the MR2, Corolla, Camry, Supra, T100, Tercel, etc. Should be like $12 or there abouts for the Nippon Denso version from the dealer.
 

DouglasVB

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Yup and the standard Toyota cap doesn't fit the radiator in my truck. Because the radiator lines up with everything else, my assumption is that it's an aftermarket radiator from a decade or two back. A Chevy radiator cap does though.
 
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