• UPDATED LOCATION DUE TO FORECAST OF RAIN: MAY 2024 CLUB MEETING
    Hi Guest: The next RS meeting will be Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 7:30 p.m. The meeting will be held indoors at the fabulous Golden Gate Canyon Grange. Click here for directions. We'll be talking ColoYota Expo and Cruise Moab.

    ⦿ If you are eligible for club membership, please fill out an application in advance of the meeting and bring it with you.

80 series radiator (TYC sucks)

KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,334
I recently replaced my radiator and went with a TYC model based on some reading over on MUD. Seemed to work pretty well but I recently noticed an issue with it and they wont replace it under a warranty claim.

It looks like there is a manufacturing defect (big surprise since its from China) and the lip around the cap neck is not formed properly. I have now tested this with 3 caps.

One brand new OEM Toyota cap will not seal the system. There is a constant flow between the radiator and the reservoir so the system never pressurizes. This results in higher running temps and as soon as the engine is shut down the coolant in the block boils for a few seconds.... not ideal.

One relatively new OEM cap, same issues as above.

I also have a Duralast cap from Auto Zone. This seals the system but does not allow any pressure release into the overflow tank. This works for driving around town, but I am worried when I push the truck hard it could cause increased pressure in the system and I might blow a hose. When pressure gets high the cap does not release through the valve in the top, but leaks from the bottom of the cap.

Looking at the radiator I think the issue is the rim of the cap neck. There is a raised section on one side but not on the other. My thought now is that this is not a fixable problem as the part is defective. Thankfully it only ran me around $135 so I am not out a ton but still rather agitated that it didn't work well. I have noticed cooler temps.... but the thing leaks so thats a wash.

So what are you folks using for replacement radiators? CSF, Koyo, OEM? Ron Davis?💰o_O


Everything else on the cooling system has been replaced other than the water pump. Might just take care of that while I have the rad out since I already have a spare on the shelf.
 

KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,334
Photo of the issue.
 

Attachments

  • 20210901_171516.jpg
    20210901_171516.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 139

IoN6

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Messages
745
Location
Arvada
I did OEM a few years back when Onur was still doing parts.
 

ccslider

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Messages
1,172
Location
Westminster
I have a tyc and it works great. No issues here...

That cap should not be an issue because that's not where the seal rides. Did you try to bend the tabs on the cap so that it is pulled in tighter?
 

KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,334
I have a tyc and it works great. No issues here...

That cap should not be an issue because that's not where the seal rides. Did you try to bend the tabs on the cap so that it is pulled in tighter?

Good thought I'll give that a try.

Strange that neither of the oem caps work though?
 

RayRay27

Cruise Moab Committee
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
1,477
Location
Thornton via Boulder
Koyo 3 core about 6 or so years ago. No problems so far.
 

nuclearlemon

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Aug 23, 2005
Messages
8,320
Location
windy wyo
Koyo
 

KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,334
I had the same issue and it took me a bit to figure it out.

Boiling over when I would shut off, bought new oem cap etc

Wish I knew the fix was that simple.

For future thread readers I took the advice on bending the cap. Kept adding more bend until I could no longer easily force coolant into the res when squeezing the upper rad hose. This seems to have solved the issue. Just need to let the truck sit long enough to make sure the cap is allowing coolant to flow back into the radiator overnight.
 
Last edited:

simps80

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Messages
2,719
Location
Arvada, CO
Koyo
I think I got it from Amazon or rock auto before the tax laws broke rock auto
Quality part
Aisin fan hub too same time same source
 

jps8460

Cruise Moab Committee
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
2,926
Location
Broomfield
OEM all the way.
 

beno

Wincher
Joined
Nov 11, 2015
Messages
62
Location
Woodstock, NY
OEM all the way.

16400-66040 is your 3 core brass radiator.

16400-66081 is your 2 core aluminum radiator.

Both are still available from any Toyota parts counter or online.

Both are great. Pros and cons, obviously, between the materials engineering selection.

For Toyota during this time period it was an easy choice to go to 2 core aluminum and get the same amount of cooling function with a reduction in overall weight, hence meeting vehicle weight/composition requirements for import into the US during the 90's.

It's actually the same now. And material science has advanced radically in almost 30 years.

Either way, both will provide years and years of service with proven Toyota keiretsu supplier quality (in this case, T.Rad Corporation).
 

LARGEONE

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2007
Messages
2,876
Location
Broomfield, CO
A lot of people running the Koyos.

I am in need of a new one as well, but I think for a little bit more money, I will likely go with the 66040 earlier 3-core brass.
 

KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,334
A lot of people running the Koyos.

I am in need of a new one as well, but I think for a little bit more money, I will likely go with the 66040 earlier 3-core brass.

Now that I bent the stupid tabs on the rad cap it's running great. Stayed under 195 going up to Eisenhower the last two trips pulling hard in 2nd gear.
 
Top