KC Masterpiece
Hard Core 4+
- Joined
- May 4, 2019
- Messages
- 1,319
I recently replaced my radiator and went with a TYC model based on some reading over on MUD. Seemed to work pretty well but I recently noticed an issue with it and they wont replace it under a warranty claim.
It looks like there is a manufacturing defect (big surprise since its from China) and the lip around the cap neck is not formed properly. I have now tested this with 3 caps.
One brand new OEM Toyota cap will not seal the system. There is a constant flow between the radiator and the reservoir so the system never pressurizes. This results in higher running temps and as soon as the engine is shut down the coolant in the block boils for a few seconds.... not ideal.
One relatively new OEM cap, same issues as above.
I also have a Duralast cap from Auto Zone. This seals the system but does not allow any pressure release into the overflow tank. This works for driving around town, but I am worried when I push the truck hard it could cause increased pressure in the system and I might blow a hose. When pressure gets high the cap does not release through the valve in the top, but leaks from the bottom of the cap.
Looking at the radiator I think the issue is the rim of the cap neck. There is a raised section on one side but not on the other. My thought now is that this is not a fixable problem as the part is defective. Thankfully it only ran me around $135 so I am not out a ton but still rather agitated that it didn't work well. I have noticed cooler temps.... but the thing leaks so thats a wash.
So what are you folks using for replacement radiators? CSF, Koyo, OEM? Ron Davis?💰
Everything else on the cooling system has been replaced other than the water pump. Might just take care of that while I have the rad out since I already have a spare on the shelf.
It looks like there is a manufacturing defect (big surprise since its from China) and the lip around the cap neck is not formed properly. I have now tested this with 3 caps.
One brand new OEM Toyota cap will not seal the system. There is a constant flow between the radiator and the reservoir so the system never pressurizes. This results in higher running temps and as soon as the engine is shut down the coolant in the block boils for a few seconds.... not ideal.
One relatively new OEM cap, same issues as above.
I also have a Duralast cap from Auto Zone. This seals the system but does not allow any pressure release into the overflow tank. This works for driving around town, but I am worried when I push the truck hard it could cause increased pressure in the system and I might blow a hose. When pressure gets high the cap does not release through the valve in the top, but leaks from the bottom of the cap.
Looking at the radiator I think the issue is the rim of the cap neck. There is a raised section on one side but not on the other. My thought now is that this is not a fixable problem as the part is defective. Thankfully it only ran me around $135 so I am not out a ton but still rather agitated that it didn't work well. I have noticed cooler temps.... but the thing leaks so thats a wash.
So what are you folks using for replacement radiators? CSF, Koyo, OEM? Ron Davis?💰
Everything else on the cooling system has been replaced other than the water pump. Might just take care of that while I have the rad out since I already have a spare on the shelf.