4x4Labs Rear Bumper - WTH have I done?!

[LARGEONE]

With the refresh of my 80 series, I removed my old, heavily modified TJM bumper only to find that the wings were COMPLETELY rusting off!…like lieterally about to fall apart on the next rock hit. The main portion of the bumper is still solid but the wings are toast!

After some wayward thoughts about trying to just weld new wings, I eventually came to my senses and ordered a new 4X4labs rear bumper from Luke. I really don’t feel like welding it up, but the lead time for a built one was going almost to May, so…and the cost difference is nearly $1000. The raw metal is on its way within a couple of weeks.

I have read a few build threads on MUD, also several from guys in RS (@AlpineAccess, @Corbet @J1000), so I feel like I can do it, but I might need some moral support along the way! Starting this thread for future questions and sanity checks!

BTW…if anyone has one of those hydraulic tables I could borrow for the build, I’d be happy to clear it out of your garage for a few weeks (yes, gonna likely be a slow build)!

Lastly, if you know where I can find links of pictures to improve the swing arm rattle issues, let me know. I’m thinking of changing up the latching system and using a bit of plastic bumpers, etc? Hoping for a solid fix to the metal on metal latch system.

TIA

 

[CardinalFJ60]

This is for a 60, but looks like a nice write up.

DIY 60 series 4x4Labs rear swing out bumper in your driveway guide. You got this

Hi all. Ive done a few other posts like this in the past... like how to LS swap your 60 series in your driveway, or how to coil swap your 60 series in your driveway... and I really have a lot of fun doing these how to threads with tips and photos and what not and figured since I'm already making...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[AlpineAccess]

With the refresh of my 80 series, I removed my old, heavily modified TJM bumper only to find that the wings were COMPLETELY rusting off!…like lieterally about to fall apart on the next rock hit. The main portion of the bumper is still solid but the wings are toast!

After some wayward thoughts about trying to just weld new wings, I eventually came to my senses and ordered a new 4X4labs rear bumper from Luke. I really don’t feel like welding it up, but the lead time for a built one was going almost to May, so…and the cost difference is nearly $1000. The raw metal is on its way within a couple of weeks.

I have read a few build threads on MUD, also several from guys in RS (@AlpineAccess, @Corbet @J1000), so I feel like I can do it, but I might need some moral support along the way! Starting this thread for future questions and sanity checks!

BTW…if anyone has one of those hydraulic tables I could borrow for the build, I’d be happy to clear it out of your garage for a few weeks (yes, gonna likely be a slow build)!

Lastly, if you know where I can find links of pictures to improve the swing arm rattle issues, let me know. I’m thinking of changing up the latching system and using a bit of plastic bumpers, etc? Hoping for a solid fix to the metal on metal latch system.

TIA

My swing arm rattle was almost completely eliminated by triangulating a piece between the upper tire carrier arm and the spindle.

I tried linking to the "what have you done to your vehicle today" thread but it didn't work so here is the screenshot.

The latches themselves do their job, it's that there was movement in the arm and after months of nuisance noise a $10 piece of 14ga 2" box tube solved it.

The hydraulic tables from harbor freight are great for this. I still use mine at least a few times a month around the shop and my house. Totally worth buying one, especially when on sale.

The tractor enamel primer and paint I used for my bumper held up super well over time too and was cake to touch up as it was self leveling. We used to use it on plow blades and so I felt like it was good enough for my rear bumper. I would also say while the bumper is off, wouldn't hurt to fluid film the inside of it. I wish I had done that just for posterity.

I really enjoyed building the bumper and may do another one some day - the 4x4 labs designs is one of my favorite aesthetically.

Have fun!

 

[LARGEONE]

Wow! That is interesting that this triangle piece solved the rattle. I figured the rattle was from the stops near the latch? I guess this kind of makes the bolt-on saddle mount unnecessary. I could likely just weld the whole thing to the swing arm.

 

[Corbet]

Swing arm bearing health is key to preventing rattles. I’m not a good example. Pop off the caps and pull the arms for PM once in a while.

 

[Corbet]

Bad swing arm bearings ignored.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

With the refresh of my 80 series, I removed my old, heavily modified TJM bumper only to find that the wings were COMPLETELY rusting off!…like lieterally about to fall apart on the next rock hit. The main portion of the bumper is still solid but the wings are toast!

After some wayward thoughts about trying to just weld new wings, I eventually came to my senses and ordered a new 4X4labs rear bumper from Luke. I really don’t feel like welding it up, but the lead time for a built one was going almost to May, so…and the cost difference is nearly $1000. The raw metal is on its way within a couple of weeks.

I have read a few build threads on MUD, also several from guys in RS (@AlpineAccess, @Corbet @J1000), so I feel like I can do it, but I might need some moral support along the way! Starting this thread for future questions and sanity checks!

BTW…if anyone has one of those hydraulic tables I could borrow for the build, I’d be happy to clear it out of your garage for a few weeks (yes, gonna likely be a slow build)!

Lastly, if you know where I can find links of pictures to improve the swing arm rattle issues, let me know. I’m thinking of changing up the latching system and using a bit of plastic bumpers, etc? Hoping for a solid fix to the metal on metal latch system.

TIA

I played around with different options to quiet the arms. Ended with cut pieces of felt furniture pads on the latch. Works great, simple, under $5.

 

[White Stripe]

If your bumper rusted out I probably wouldn't do 4x4 labs. Instead I would do a bolt on. That way if it starts to get rusty you can pull it off and remove the rust. A few companies sell diy weld bolt on bumpers.

 

[LARGEONE]

Isn’t the 4x4Labs a bolt on? There are two large bolts under frame and the three where the spare tire bracket was…total of five on each side to remove bumper.

At least how I understand it?

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Yes 4x4 labs is a bolt on, but the rear x member is removed.

I took mine off once to repaint. You can move the truck around without it, but I would not drive on the highway without the bumper installed.

 

[LARGEONE]

Ahh. Got it. I’m not super excited about chopping the rear cross member. But due to previous mods to my current cross member I would have to do some chopping even for a bolt on bumper.

 

[LARGEONE]

Yes 4x4 labs is a bolt on, but the rear x member is removed.

I took mine off once to repaint. You can move the truck around without it, but I would not drive on the highway without the bumper installed.

Are you happy with your 4x4Labs bumper?

 

[LARGEONE]

Bad swing arm bearings ignored.

View attachment 138827

Are those grooves worn by the arm moving up and down?

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Are you happy with your 4x4Labs bumper?

Very happy with it. There are some days I wish I went with the Slee, but there is a massive price difference.

I ordered mine built and one of the spindle mount welds broke. I sent photos to Luke and and he sent me a replacement. Good product and great company.

 

[AimCOTaco]

I've been running the one I built for about 10 years and 70,000 miles, my strike plates are not nearly as worn as Corbet's and I haven't replaced the bearings to date. When I built I had plans to add some HDPE skids to the swings or the bumper top to take some of that vertical load and reduce any squeaks.. but I still haven't gotten around to it and don't really see any need today.

One thing I'd suggest is to be sure the two arms are not perfectly parallel when you weld the stops but rather should be "open" about 1/4-1/2" so when the latch draws the two arms together so they'll put some forward pressure on the stops. This should reduce clatter and make the latch adjustment effective in controlling the "closing" force somewhat. You'll see what I mean when you get there.

I should really pull mine for a repaint and freshen up the bearings noticing how long I've been punishing it.

Build on, they are awesome bumpers!

 

[AlpineAccess]

It's bolt on and easily removable, with the hydraulic table it's quick.

The issue with the tire swingarm rattling is that the steel arm torsions. The piece in that location both braces the arm laterally but reduces torsion on the arm. It works great, and you could certainly make it look nicer than I did.

I glued some small rubber pieces on the arms between the latches. They would hold up for a year and then I'd have to reglue them.

 

[LARGEONE]

I've been running the one I built for about 10 years and 70,000 miles, my strike plates are not nearly as worn as Corbet's and I haven't replaced the bearings to date. When I built I had plans to add some HDPE skids to the swings or the bumper top to take some of that vertical load and reduce any squeaks.. but I still haven't gotten around to it and don't really see any need today.

One thing I'd suggest is to be sure the two arms are not perfectly parallel when you weld the stops but rather should be "open" about 1/4-1/2" so when the latch draws the two arms together so they'll put some forward pressure on the stops. This should reduce clatter and make the latch adjustment effective in controlling the "closing" force somewhat. You'll see what I mean when you get there.

I should really pull mine for a repaint and freshen up the bearings noticing how long I've been punishing it.

Build on, they are awesome bumpers!

I totally understand what you’re saying…instead of following the directions using a straight piece of metal clamped to the swing arms I would intentionally have them angle ever so slightly out. Got it.

 

[AimCOTaco]

The issue with the tire swingarm rattling is that the steel arm torsions. The piece in that location both braces the arm laterally but reduces torsion on the arm. It works great, and you could certainly make it look nicer than I did.

That's a good tip, my spare can get rockin' when tire balance or road conditions are wrong enough. That is a mod I'll probably work in to a repaint/rework job.

 

[White Stripe]

I thought it was welded on. My bad

 

[LARGEONE]

the only harbor freight hydraulic table they still have only goes up to 28” which is not even up to my cross member

I might have to try one of those motorcycle lifts that scissor up to 50”?