35's on the 3rd gen

[Notyourmomslx450]

Who here can tub a firewall, and if needed modify the body mounts? Also need to do some trimming of fenders and what not. I also want to stay away from a body lift if I can..
Dreams of SAS'ing the 4Runner are on hold ATM because of the other project car I picked up (Chevelle).
I want to get the 4Runner on 35's, lock the front and regear the diffs.

EDIT,
4Runner already has a 3" lift

 

[rushthezeppelin]

I've heard of people doing 35s without a body lift but it's my understanding that it makes things a lot easier and you aren't having to tub practically to your door hinges. I assume you just really want to avoid jacking up your COG?

 

[Notyourmomslx450]

Yeah, want to keep the COG as low as possible.

 

[DaveInDenver]

It's a dance to do it. Typically you need aftermarket UCAs, 3" lift, body mount chop (this is the main point of interference at 33"+) and fender pinch weld flattening or full trimming of the wheel arches. And even then you'll have 1/4" only if you have a good alignment shop who knows how to push the tire forward without losing all your caster.

 

[J Kimmel]

Tubbing is pretty easy if you can weld. Cut the corner out and cut some 18 gauge a little oversized and you start on one end and tack it in. The more you tack into place the better it’ll form to your hole.
I run my welder on one, tack and release the trigger right until the weld cools enough you can see it and tack again and repeat until done. Sounds a little daunting but once you get started it’s pretty easy

 

[Notyourmomslx450]

It's a dance to do it. Typically you need aftermarket UCAs, 3" lift, body mount chop (this is the main point of interference at 33"+) and fender pinch weld flattening or full trimming of the wheel arches. And even then you'll have 1/4" only if you have a good alignment shop who knows how to push the tire forward without losing all your caster.

already have all the lift stuff. It's been rockin for the last 13ish years with uniball UCA's and OME rear springs.

Tubbing is pretty easy if you can weld. Cut the corner out and cut some 18 gauge a little oversized and you start on one end and tack it in. The more you tack into place the better it’ll form to your hole.
I run my welder on one, tack and release the trigger right until the weld cools enough you can see it and tack again and repeat until done. Sounds a little daunting but once you get started it’s pretty easy

Can't weld to save my life...

 

[Rzeppa]

Scott Yoder has done Pritchett and many other ridiculous difficult trails in his 3rd gen on 33s.

Prior to my first Cruise Moab in 2000, I saw videos of rigs doing crazy sh!t. I was was like "holy cow, that's not for me!". Our Rising Sun Vice Commander at the time, Rob Merideth counseled me that "pick your lines. You'll do fine". He said "It's 75% the nut behind the wheel, not necessarily how big our rig is built". And he was right in my personal observation over the years. A good driver trumps a built rig (almost) every time. In my personal experience with 33s versus 35s, yeah the 35s were slightly better, but not hugely so. And there was subjectively a big downgrade in highway manners between 33s and 35s. Objectively, the 35s I documented about 7% worse mileage than 33s.

IMHO, mods that get you up the trail and back home without having to resort to our (awesome) recovery classes:

(1) Rear locker (or A-trac; fully locked and A-trac each have their advantages and disadvantages in my observation)
(2) Proper articulation to keep tires contacted with the surface
(3) Bigger tires and whatever lift or mods to make the tires fit
(4) Gears to match the tires and engine torque curve
(5) Front locker

In that order. Notice I didn't mention sliders or other armor. They protect you but don't get you up the trail or back home, with the exception of bumpers that give you better approach and departure angles. I still advice new owners of wagons, Tacos or runners to get sliders before bumpers to protect that sheet metal, but sleders don't get you up the trail and back home.

Of course tools and spares are critical to help you get back home, but IMHO, 35s aren't that much of an upgrade to getting you up the trail and back home compared to 33s in a 3rd gen runner. And looking at what I am seeing upthread on this, definitely not worth the effort on a 3rd gen runner. IMHO, if you are going to all that effort, go straight to 37s or bigger. I HAVE seen the difference of 37s versus 35s. But now we're talking breakage, SAS, aftermarket axles, etc.

Rabbit hole!

 

[DaveInDenver]

Since the thread is drifting to the philosophical I'd also mention that Yoder's 4Runner has experienced a few pretty significant breakages, too.

 

[JadeRunner]

Ha, I never did Pritchett,. But pretty much everything else on 33's.. And yes it took it's toll over the years. I started breaking things like a rear axle, split the t-case. Even my body mount bushings wore out big time from flexing so much. But, replacing those is a fine mod. Just trim new polys down on each one just the way you want them.

I don't personally believe the 3rd gen can handle anything bigger that 33's over time unless you cut out the IFS, wheel wells and are Mr. fabricator like Kimmel beefing everything up and replacing a ton of components..

So yea I would just say roll on 33's with your armor (on lots of stuff), gears and lockers and drive like you know what your doin'.

.

 

[Rzeppa]

Word^