2UZ swap into 1992 FJ80

[DaveInDenver]

@Inukshuk @FunkyYota

I have EWD for 1994 Land Cruiser, which may not be at all the same as 1996 or Lexus.

This is the circuit and 26-pin connector.





The part number may be 88240-60660 and seems to apply to all 80 series and LX450. I have not checked for supersede.






So if the p/n and wiring matches, curious about which B-W wire you're seeing a voltage on.

Pin 14 is ignition on power in and pin 2 looks to be maybe neutral (or clutch) cancel? There are circuit reasons why each may measure a voltage open (assuming the constant power is present on 15). If they do show voltage as inputs the current you'd measure externally would be small (I'd expect 𝜇A, if anything) and depending on your meter could indicate zero.

Without the ECU schematic or tearing one apart it's hard to know but at least pin 2 I would not be surprised to see voltage on it open if this thing works like I'm thinking. Pin 14 less so, but not impossible. It's possible IG-on is only a sense line and actually powering any circuits in the ECU.

 

[Inukshuk]

Much is same LC to LX for the years (group 1993 - 1994, and 1995 - 1997) but the differences get ya. 1996 LX450 Ignition circuit is different than 1996 80 by the Theft Deterrent system
Here is 1996 LX450. Voltage from pin 2. Yes, barely registered on meters most sensitive setting. We all conclude not enough to actuate solenoid on its own but it was enough to tell the GM ECU to activate the starter solenoid.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Much is same LC to LX for the years (group 1993 - 1994, and 1995 - 1997) but the differences get ya. 1996 LX450 Ignition circuit is different than 1996 80 by the Theft Deterrent system
Here is 1996 LX450. Voltage from pin 2. Yes, barely registered on meters most sensitive setting. We all conclude not enough to actuate solenoid on its own but was enough to tell the GM ECU to activate the solenoid

It sounds like the ECU itself is pretty similar. I'd be wary of driving an unknown load with it since it's called an input in both EWDs.

If anyone is interested in why I'm making this assumption, it's because I think this the base to a transistor switch. It may or may not harm anything driving another input through another input's pull up source and protection diodes. It would be more reliable through a better circuit than an input resistor network.

Of course, I dunno much. So.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Hey Nic, I’m currently reworking my harness for my swap. One of the things I’m gonna try to add in is cruise control. Did you end up getting that working for your rig?

I’m trying to figure out two things right now:

1. If I should make a circuit to convert the vss to a digital input for the ecu or if you bought this thing and had success https://sirhclabs.com/product/cortex-ebc-speed-sensor-adapter/
2. How to best control cruise control. Did you measure the resistors in the 100 series cruise switch by chance or know if the 100series cruise control stalk fits in the 80series spot?

Hey man! I went the simplest route and bought a gauge cluster from a 97 to use and routed the VSS signal through it to the ECM. The wiring going through the gauge cluster looked the same on the schematic on both the 97 and 99, so I followed my hunch thinking it would work, and it did. This was huge because it gave me accurate speed on the speedometer, and gave the ECM the signal it needed to control the cruise.

I still don't have the switch properly positioned, but I've be using the later model switch fitted into a 3D printed mount so it can go in the same location as stock. There was a guy on mud who figured out the resistor setup, but that was a bit much for me. I figured out the resistance it needed to be (Bad Boys ____ Our _____....) but couldn't figure out a feasible way of properly incorporating it.

 

[FunkyYota]

Hmmm. I’m thinking about hacking on the existing wiring to get the fj80 cruise control wiring to match up with the 2uz version, but I’ve gotta figure out the resistance values. I was thinking about getting one of these to see about mounting it up, or measuring the resistances. https://a.co/d/1B3B1XZ

 

[tacoma2002]

Bumping this one back up to the top.

Like @Stuckinthe80s my job has had me consumed but I've recently been back on my '91 swap as I'm getting it ready to make a trip to the San Juans next month. Just completed the A/C and I'll list what I used for future 2UZ swappers (I'll not ever do my own build thread on this one lol).

I used a 2UZ from a Tundra - that AC compressor configuration will not clear the 80 steering box as it uses a compressor that requires a mounting bracket. The 100 series compressor bolts directly to the engine block with 3 bolts that the A/C bracket uses to adapt to the Tundra/Sequoia compressor.

100 Series compressor - 2002 Kia Sportage compressor manifold - Cold Hose #8 and #10 hoses - Cold Hose Compressor adapters (p/n AA1277-AA1278) - CruiserMatt (company out of FL) makes evaporator and condenser adapters to adapt to the #8/#10 oring fittings.

It's a lot of leg work figuring this out so I thought I'd post it for someone in the future who might have neglected A/C during the engine/trans placement as I did .

I used "close 90's" for the compressor end of the suction/discharge hoses and routed them both forward similarly of a 100 series and it works.

I'm going to sit down and figure out cruise control when we get back. So far my plan is to use the Tundra steering wheel and CC assembly on it to make mine work. I reused my 80 series transfer case behind a 100 series transmission. My speedo is still being gear driven off the tcase but my ECM gets speed signal from the trans speed sensor to know what's going on. Not sure what this will look like during my CC adaptation.

I'll tell any of you beginning this swap that it's a lot of work getting these things dialed in correctly...but they sure are FUN to drive!

 

[FunkyYota]

I got cruise working in mine a couple months ago. I figured out the resistors and used the factor fj80 cruise control stalk which is nice. The VSS pulse is half what the 2uz is expecting so the control tuning is not perfect and drop out speed is double what it’s supposed to be but it works. You really need a four pulse VSS but for now I’m living with a two. I found a sensor just haven’t bought one yet. I might make a little micro controller or circuit to go in there to convert it. TBD. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj80-cruise-control-speed-sensor.1044131/

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Bumping this one back up to the top.

Like @Stuckinthe80s my job has had me consumed but I've recently been back on my '91 swap as I'm getting it ready to make a trip to the San Juans next month. Just completed the A/C and I'll list what I used for future 2UZ swappers (I'll not ever do my own build thread on this one lol).

I used a 2UZ from a Tundra - that AC compressor configuration will not clear the 80 steering box as it uses a compressor that requires a mounting bracket. The 100 series compressor bolts directly to the engine block with 3 bolts that the A/C bracket uses to adapt to the Tundra/Sequoia compressor.

100 Series compressor - 2002 Kia Sportage compressor manifold - Cold Hose #8 and #10 hoses - Cold Hose Compressor adapters (p/n AA1277-AA1278) - CruiserMatt (company out of FL) makes evaporator and condenser adapters to adapt to the #8/#10 oring fittings.

It's a lot of leg work figuring this out so I thought I'd post it for someone in the future who might have neglected A/C during the engine/trans placement as I did .

I used "close 90's" for the compressor end of the suction/discharge hoses and routed them both forward similarly of a 100 series and it works.

I'm going to sit down and figure out cruise control when we get back. So far my plan is to use the Tundra steering wheel and CC assembly on it to make mine work. I reused my 80 series transfer case behind a 100 series transmission. My speedo is still being gear driven off the tcase but my ECM gets speed signal from the trans speed sensor to know what's going on. Not sure what this will look like during my CC adaptation.

I'll tell any of you beginning this swap that it's a lot of work getting these things dialed in correctly...but they sure are FUN to drive!

Thanks for the information! I'm finally getting around to doing this and will post up as well. @FunkyYota helped me out with a parts list, just haven't gotten around to getting it done.

Can you post up some pics?

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

I got cruise working in mine a couple months ago. I figured out the resistors and used the factor fj80 cruise control stalk which is nice. The VSS pulse is half what the 2uz is expecting so the control tuning is not perfect and drop out speed is double what it’s supposed to be but it works. You really need a four pulse VSS but for now I’m living with a two. I found a sensor just haven’t bought one yet. I might make a little micro controller or circuit to go in there to convert it. TBD. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj80-cruise-control-speed-sensor.1044131/

To clarify, you're using the signal straight from the VSS and sending it straight to the ECM? I wonder if swapping your gauge cluster with one from a 97 and routing it through that like I did will clean up the signal to what the computer is looking for?

 

[FunkyYota]

To clarify, you're using the signal straight from the VSS and sending it straight to the ECM? I wonder if swapping your gauge cluster with one from a 97 and routing it through that like I did will clean up the signal to what the computer is looking for?

yep that’s what I did. The 91 and 92 use a mechanical cable to the gauge cluster. I figured it’d be easier to keep that around for now. It would be awesome to have a more modern gauge cluster tho. Mostly for the tachometer, but if that could clean up the VSS signal that’d be cool too. I used a Hall effect switch component and reworked the sensor so it was source-drain on or off.

Currently my tach is inop. I think the 80 series is like open-ground whereas the 100 is 0-12v square wave. I think the 100 series will be a different frequency multiple of the crank speed too. I think Dakota digital or someone makes a dog icky to make that work.

Also, I’m gonna be driving the cruiser out to Colorado/Utah late july if anyone wants to meet up skmewhere

 

[Inukshuk]

I got cruise working in mine a couple months ago. I figured out the resistors and used the factor fj80 cruise control stalk which is nice. The VSS pulse is half what the 2uz is expecting so the control tuning is not perfect and drop out speed is double what it’s supposed to be but it works. You really need a four pulse VSS but for now I’m living with a two. I found a sensor just haven’t bought one yet. I might make a little micro controller or circuit to go in there to convert it. TBD. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj80-cruise-control-speed-sensor.1044131/

This is still on my to-troubleshoot. I modded a 93-94 stalk by removing all resistors so now I get a momentary output from each position and used latching relays since the computer wants constant circuits. Dash light part works. The rest does not. :-( Yet.

Currently my tach is inop. I think the 80 series is like open-ground whereas the 100 is 0-12v square wave. I think the 100 series will be a different frequency multiple of the crank speed too. I think Dakota digital or someone makes a dog icky to make that work.

Tachometer: For my 2004 LS into 1996 80 I did all the research, tried the POT changes, etc, and ultimately just used the Dakota Digital SGI-100BT

FYI, the Dakota Digital GSS-3000 Universal Sender Unit for Gear Shift Position Indicator made the gear indicators easy. I mounted it to the right end of the shifter rod.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

yep that’s what I did. The 91 and 92 use a mechanical cable to the gauge cluster. I figured it’d be easier to keep that around for now. It would be awesome to have a more modern gauge cluster tho. Mostly for the tachometer, but if that could clean up the VSS signal that’d be cool too. I used a Hall effect switch component and reworked the sensor so it was source-drain on or off.

Currently my tach is inop. I think the 80 series is like open-ground whereas the 100 is 0-12v square wave. I think the 100 series will be a different frequency multiple of the crank speed too. I think Dakota digital or someone makes a dog icky to make that work.

Also, I’m gonna be driving the cruiser out to Colorado/Utah late july if anyone wants to meet up skmewhere

Although I do have a working tachometer, it's not 100% accurate. There is a rheostat behind the tach that I used to adjust get the readout close. I "calibrated" it to 2k rpm by using my scan gauge to see what the computer was seeing and adjusted to that. It's a bit off at idle, but it's pretty spot on at highway speeds.

Can you give some more detail on figuring out the resisitors to use the factory cruise switch? It may not be the same resistance that the 99 is looking for, but it will get me started.