2UZ swap into 1992 FJ80

[Stuckinthe80s]

As the thread states, this will be documenting the 2uz swap I'm doing on my 80 series. It won't be exactly like other build threads you may have followed as I'm already about half way done with it. The main point of it will be to cover some things that I haven't been able to find on the interwebs and lessen the strain on people doing this same thing in the future. I have a tendency to overthink a lot of things, which leads me to a lot of questions. If those questions can't be answered by doing research online, then I'm going to try to post the answers here. And, if I did find them online, I'll post the associated links here as well.

The types of things I'll cover:

• Things I've learned along the way - mostly electronic stuff.
• Things that I couldn't find anywhere and had to figure out with the help of friends.
• Lessons learned during the build, during shakedown, and after long term use.

The types of things I probably won't cover:

• Details on engine/tranny mounting as it's already been covered in other threads. Also, this will probably differ slightly in each application so it's up to you to make sure everything is where it needs to be.
• Things I forget about.

There is a lot of debate on whether or not the 2uz swap is "worth it" but I won't entertain that discussion in this thread. This drivetrain made itself available to me for basically free and it is going to be substantially better than that poor little 3fe. Well, the 3fe isn't really little and that's the irony of it, right? I didn't weigh it nor the 2uz but I would guess the 3fe might be heavier with around half the power.

The engine/tranny/transfer case are from my dearly departed 1999 100 Series. The vehicle was totaled last year after an accident but I was able to buy it back from the insurance company and part out what goodies were still usable. This is really the reason I chose to do this specific swap as I had a complete donor vehicle and I know the history of the drivetrain. I think this is important to note because 2uz swaps can get even more complicated than they already are if you don't source everything from the same vehicle. I have the matched ECU and electrical bits to get past the Toyota sorcery associated with the immobilizer setup. But we'll get into that later.

Here are some threads/links that I have referenced quite a bit during all of this:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/building-barbara-fj80-build-thread.1168819/ - from our very own Tyler @FunkyYota
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/project-effjjay-eighty-2uz-powered.341445/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2uzfe-swap-into-fj80-building-in-progress.273882/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fjbrobris-lx450-build.913274/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/91-3fe-to-2uz-swap.1263929/

There's really not a lot of threads on doing this as the availability of these drivetrains is extremely limited compared to LS swaps. Also, I think a lot of difficulty shown in the documented swaps comes from trying to piece everything together. As previously mentioned, and this goes for any swap, it is probably easiest to have a complete donor vehicle if you want to do this yourself.

Here is a link going over the wiring for the 1uz which might be helpful:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls...o-wire-up-a-1uz-engine-vvti-and-non-vvti.html

If nothing else, it helped dumb down the thought process on how the ECU interfaced with everything.

So without further adieu....

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Drive By Wire

There's a little bit of misunderstanding out there about the 2uz and whether or not it is drive by wire. The general understanding is that the earlier versions were not and the later versions were. This is kinda true in that the earlier versions did use a throttle cable attached to the gas pedal, but it was just to turn an Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor located on the throttle body which then interfaced with a Throttle Control Motor:

Later versions moved the APPS to the gas pedal making it more of a true drive by wire.

I only note this to help answer questions others might have when they start thinking about this conversion and to show that earlier 2uz's are easier for this use.

My throttle interface was easy because I just reused the cable from the 100 series and was good to go. I had to take off the rubber isolation plugs that were on it and Dremel out soe notches for the bolts to fit, but I think it will work just fine. The rubber isolation piece also served as a gasket in between the bracket and the firewall so I through some gasket maker in between for good measure: (disregard the mismatched bolts)

Oh, and the gas pedal arm had to be bent just a bit to keep constant tension on the cable.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Place holder for Immobilizer

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Cruise Control

If you're like me, you're reading this and probably wondering, "Why are we going over cruise control? How about we get it running first and worry about the luxuries later?" Well, I told you this wasn't going to be in order. I'm trying to finish up all of my wiring to the ECU and this is part of it.

The 1992 cruise control system is a subsystem that mechanically interfaces with the throttle on the 3FE. It has it's own seperate ECU that controls an actuator that then adjusts the throttle when it is engaged.

The 1999 cruise control is a function of the main ECM and the only interface is through the switch on the steering wheel:

What I'm in the middle of trying to figure out is how to use the 1992 cruise control switch in place of the 1999. The 1992 switch schematic looks like this:

I don't think I'm going to be able to, right? It looks like there is a resistor in between each pole of the 1992 switch if I'm reading the schematic right.

Please feel free to chime in and I'll edit this once it get's resolved. It's not going to hold anything up but it will be nice to check this box at some point.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Shifter Information

There were a few things that worked in my favor regarding the shifter for this swap:
1. The transfer case shifter location turned out to be exactly where the stock position was.
2. I happened to have some of the parts needed to make everything a bit more seemless.

On some of the swaps I've read, the individual has had to fabricate a shifter plate to adjust for the position of the transfer case shifter mount being forward of the stock 80 series location. This was because they used a transmission from a Tundra, 4runner or some other source and it added another step of complexity that can be avoided if sourcing a drivetrain from a 100 series. I don't know if this is the case with all years of Hundies nor did I know this going into it, it just happened to work out.

Something I did have to work through was the difference in transmission control, or more simply, the number of transmission shifter selection points. Although both 80 series and early 100 series are both 4 speed transmissions, the early 80 series can be manually controlled through all four gears where the later versions can only be shifted through gears L and 2. The later 80's had the overdrive selector switch to keep it out of fourth gear if needed where the early 80's did not. As a consequence, the gauge cluster on the early 80's have L, 2, 3, D indicator lights and the later ones just have L, 2, D with a light that says if the O/D Off is selected on the shifter. Although I could have gotten around all of this with just using what had, and ignoring the "3" position light/shifter position, I wanted it to look and function like it was meant to. So, I sourced a later model shifter and used it. Also, I happened to have a gauge cluster from a 94 and re-pinned the connectors to make it work with the 92 wiring. This was probably needed either way as I wanted to take advantage of the electronic speedometer vs. the cable driven speedometer that was there.

Oh, and I did have to shorten the transmission shift rod but the transfer case shift rod bolted right up.

Transfer case shifter location:

Oh, the hack job "enlarging" of the shifter hole is remnants from my H42 swap I did. Luckily a tan 80 was at the U-pull for a bit and I cut out a patch that will be used.

Here you will see the difference in shifter indicator housings:

This was a hybrid of the 92 and later shift indicator housing as I wanted to maintain the use of the "Shift Lock Overdrive" button. In other words, I put the later model shifter position indicator strip inside the 92 housing, then screwed it on top of the later shift plate.

And fun fact, the 100 series shifter handle is the same as the later 80 series shifter handle:

The only reason I even looked for this is because the leather was pretty nasty on the shifter I had, and I just happened to keep the shifter from the Hundy when I pulled it apart. WIN!!

 

[FunkyYota]

Heck yea. An organized 2uz swap thread.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Heck yea. An organized 2uz swap thread.

I don't know if I would use the word organized. I was the kid in school who thought the bottom of my backpack was the best place to keep all of my loose-leaf assignments that were supposed to go in a folder and be turned in at the end of the semester. They usually made it into the folder the day it was supposed to be turned in. Well, most of them.

The flow probably isn't going to make a lot of sense but at least it will be archived.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

I've updated some of the place holder posts and wanted to add this one as a side note.

This is a public service announcement!

DO NOT USE PEEL AND STICK FOR HEAT/SOUND BARRIER

This is what happens:

I put this stuff on about 6 years ago trying to cheap out on sound deadening and heat transfer. It is the foil stuff found at DIY stores and this isn't really the best application for it. It is foam layered between an adhesive layer and foil and will create pockets for moisture to sit. This was something I'm glad I found but added several hours of labor I wasn't planning on to get it up.

The really sad part is that it didn't really do anything to help with road noise. Looking back on it, I don't know why I thought it would as a lot of the noise with a car is from the vibrations in the metal. True sound deadeners help with this by dampening the frequencies created by that metal and I'll be doing this the right way this time.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Speed Signal to ECU and to Speedometer

EDIT: I found this thread that should help me but I've got to freshen up on my electronic theory to really be able to digest it:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/need-help-from-electrical-gurus.974604/page-4

I need some help from my electronics friends. As stated earlier, I'm trying to do this right and without any codes from the ECU not getting what it needs.

The FSM states the following regarding the speed sensor to ECU:

So when it says "...converted to a more precise rectangular waveform...." is that just fancy talk for signal conditioner? In other words, if I can find a signal conditioner and put it inline, will that meet the requirements the ECM is looking for? I guess I could figure out where it is in the combination meter and just use that.

For the speedometer, I'm just using the signal straight from the speed sensor as I'm using a gauge cluster ( combination meter ) from a 94 and that is what it uses:

 

[HDavis]

Speed Signal to ECU and to Speedometer

EDIT: I found this thread that should help me but I've got to freshen up on my electronic theory to really be able to digest it:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/need-help-from-electrical-gurus.974604/page-4

I need some help from my electronics friends. As stated earlier, I'm trying to do this right and without any codes from the ECU not getting what it needs.

The FSM states the following regarding the speed sensor to ECU:
View attachment 101982

So when it says "...converted to a more precise rectangular waveform...." is that just fancy talk for signal conditioner? In other words, if I can find a signal conditioner and put it inline, will that meet the requirements the ECM is looking for? I guess I could figure out where it is in the combination meter and just use that.

For the speedometer, I'm just using the signal straight from the speed sensor as I'm using a gauge cluster ( combination meter ) from a 94 and that is what it uses:

View attachment 101983

I think I have the answer for you. I had to do the same thing for the Stout. Take apart the cluster to just the speedometer circuit board and sender (The little electric motor the needle is attached to) Solder the associated wires to their locations and put it some place safe and secure. Mine is in a little box wrapped in tessa tape. My theory is the sensor is built into the unit so it must stay connected. I have my ultraguage connected into my obd2 port and it gives me speed and all associated instrument cluster readings after I did this.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

I think I have the answer for you. I had to do the same thing for the Stout. Take apart the cluster to just the speedometer circuit board and sender (The little electric motor the needle is attached to) Solder the associated wires to their locations and put it some place safe and secure. Mine is in a little box wrapped in tessa tape. My theory is the sensor is built into the unit so it must stay connected. I have my ultraguage connected into my obd2 port and it gives me speed and all associated instrument cluster readings after I did this.
View attachment 101984

Thanks Hans! That might be what I do. I like the idea of building a one-off little gizmo but why re-invent the whee?

 

[White Stripe]

Cruise Control

If you're like me, you're reading this and probably wondering, "Why are we going over cruise control? How about we get it running first and worry about the luxuries later?" Well, I told you this wasn't going to be in order. I'm trying to finish up all of my wiring to the ECU and this is part of it.

The 1992 cruise control system is a subsystem that mechanically interfaces with the throttle on the 3FE. It has it's own seperate ECU that controls an actuator that then adjusts the throttle when it is engaged.

The 1999 cruise control is a function of the main ECM and the only interface is through the switch on the steering wheel:

View attachment 101807

What I'm in the middle of trying to figure out is how to use the 1992 cruise control switch in place of the 1999. The 1992 switch schematic looks like this:
View attachment 101808

I don't think I'm going to be able to, right? It looks like there is a resistor in between each pole of the 1992 switch if I'm reading the schematic right.

Please feel free to chime in and I'll edit this once it get's resolved. It's not going to hold anything up but it will be nice to check this box at some point.

From what I'm seeing if I'm reading it right you should be able to use the fj80 switch. Each function of the fj80 switch has its own wire. The 100 series does not. It seems it determines which function is actuated by resistance. So you will have to figure out how much resistance each function has. From that you can modify the fj80 switch. So you could destroy a 100 series switch by looking inside and seeing if you can identify the resistors. Possibly the service manual might have this information. Or you could use j hooks on a multimeter on a working 100 series and monitor the voltage drop as you actuate each function and then use math to find the resistor sizes. Once you identify the resistor sizes, buy those resistors and solder them to each wire of the fj80 switch. Then tie in the fj80 wires into 1 wire in order so the resistors can add up just like the inside of the 100 switch except you will be doing the same thing with wires rather than a circuit board. Once you figure out the resistor sizes it should be like 10 bucks in resistors at most and some wore splicing.
It took me a while to figure out my cruise control on my 80. After having done some road trips, I tell you it is worth the effort to make work.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

From what I'm seeing if I'm reading it right you should be able to use the fj80 switch. Each function of the fj80 switch has its own wire. The 100 series does not. It seems it determines which function is actuated by resistance. So you will have to figure out how much resistance each function has. From that you can modify the fj80 switch. So you could destroy a 100 series switch by looking inside and seeing if you can identify the resistors. Possibly the service manual might have this information. Or you could use j hooks on a multimeter on a working 100 series and monitor the voltage drop as you actuate each function and then use math to find the resistor sizes. Once you identify the resistor sizes, buy those resistors and solder them to each wire of the fj80 switch. Then tie in the fj80 wires into 1 wire in order so the resistors can add up just like the inside of the 100 switch except you will be doing the same thing with wires rather than a circuit board. Once you figure out the resistor sizes it should be like 10 bucks in resistors at most and some wore splicing.
It took me a while to figure out my cruise control on my 80. After having done some road trips, I tell you it is worth the effort to make work.

Thanks man, I was hoping you would chime in as we're both working with 1992 80's. I read through your notes on your build thread because I remembered you detailed what you did to figure it out and it did help some. Although the GM cruise control you used looks like it uses an actuator like the 80 did, I saw that you had to do some things to get the switch to work with it.

I do have the switch from the 100 series and I'll do as you suggested then post up.

 

[White Stripe]

Thanks man, I was hoping you would chime in as we're both working with 1992 80's. I read through your notes on your build thread because I remembered you detailed what you did to figure it out and it did help some. Although the GM cruise control you used looks like it uses an actuator like the 80 did, I saw that you had to do some things to get the switch to work with it.

I do have the switch from the 100 series and I'll do as you suggested then post up.

Yeah I don't think it will be a big deal for you from what I'm seeing. Maybe someone else might see something I'm missing. I didn't know you had a build thread. Mine has been very helpful in going back and seeing my notes for wiring online when I'm out and about with issues that have popped up. So I think you'll find the same thing down the road.

 

[krice118]

Following!

 

[DaveInDenver]

So when it says "...converted to a more precise rectangular waveform...." is that just fancy talk for signal conditioner? In other words, if I can find a signal conditioner and put it inline, will that meet the requirements the ECM is looking for? I guess I could figure out where it is in the combination meter and just use that.

What is happening is the speed sensor is passive, just an AC waveform that more or less drives the speedometer, probably with just a linear amplifier to drive the motor (e.g. a voltage or current follower).

You could feed that AC sine wave into the ECU but the "error" they talk about is due to how a digital system sees signals. It wants to see voltages as either high or low. You can't hang out in the region between low and high without causing issues (called the switching or threshold region).

But if you impose a sine wave over a square wave you'll see that sine waves produce exactly the wrong type of signal for a system that wants to be either high or low. They actually spend almost no time as either zero or max and spend all the time slowly changing between them.

Without going into an even deeper tangent about digital design just realize that sine waves are terrible to feed into a digital input if you want to accurately represent it. Especially so when the signal you're reading is to measure frequency, e.g. counting the edges.

The basics here is if your signal is neither low (e.g. zero volts) or high (say 5V) and sits in between a digital input will randomly see it as low or high or might just oscillate between them until the right stable low or high is reached. The ECU might see a 15 Hz (just say it's on that order) speed sensor sine wave as going 500 MPH if it expects a 15 Hz square wave.

So you have to make the sine wave into a square wave. That's what the "conditioner" box is doing. It's making a slowly changing signal into one that changes very fast.

I'd probably shy away from modifying you gauge cluster unless you can figure out the circuit. It might still work fine or not. Potential problems is your speed stops working or begins to have errors or jumps around. It might also be unseen problems but is slowly ruining the speedometer motor. So I'd keep the VSS-to-gauge circuit as Toyota intended it personally.

I'd rather tap the VSS signal and use the conditioner. It wouldn't have to be on the gauge necessarily (like put a 'Y' in the harness at the VSS) and it wouldn't be difficult to hack something together if you can't find an OTS solution. At high level the circuit is very simple. The concept has been around since Moses was an EE undergrad.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

What is happening is the speed sensor is passive, just an AC waveform that more or less drives the speedometer, probably with just a linear amplifier to drive the motor (e.g. a voltage or current follower).

You could feed that AC sine wave into the ECU but the "error" they talk about is due to how a digital system sees signals. It wants to see voltages as either high or low. You can't hang out in the region between low and high without causing issues (called the switching or threshold region).

But if you impose a sine wave over a square wave you'll see that sine waves produce exactly the wrong type of signal for a system that wants to be either high or low. They actually spend almost no time as either zero or max and spend all the time slowly changing between them.

View attachment 102003

Without going into an even deeper tangent about digital design just realize that sine waves are terrible to feed into a digital input if you want to accurately represent it. Especially so when the signal you're reading is to measure frequency, e.g. counting the edges.

The basics here is if your signal is neither low (e.g. zero volts) or high (say 5V) and sits in between a digital input will randomly see it as low or high or might just oscillate between them until the right stable low or high is reached. The ECU might see a 15 Hz (just say it's on that order) speed sensor sine wave as going 500 MPH if it expects a 15 Hz square wave.

So you have to make the sine wave into a square wave. That's what the "conditioner" box is doing. It's making a slowly changing signal into one that changes very fast.

I'd probably shy away from modifying you gauge cluster unless you can figure out the circuit. It might still work fine or not. Potential problems is your speed stops working or begins to have errors or jumps around. It might also be unseen problems but is slowly ruining the speedometer motor. So I'd keep the VSS-to-gauge circuit as Toyota intended it personally.

I'd rather tap the VSS signal and use the conditioner. It wouldn't have to be on the gauge necessarily (like put a 'Y' in the harness at the VSS) and it wouldn't be difficult to hack something together if you can't find an OTS solution. At high level the circuit is very simple. The concept has been around since Moses was an EE undergrad.

View attachment 102005

Thanks Dave. I should have paid more attention to all of this when I learned it in the Navy. But then again, we just covered it at a basic level and when we put it into use for maintenance, our procedures were written at a first grade level. If we hooked up an oscilloscope to something, the procedure would tell us what buttons to push and what the screen should look like.

I think what you are suggesting is what @HDavis was saying when he said he used the speedometer: not to use the speedometer as a gauge, but rather just the signal conditioner part of it. But just for the sake of discussion, and if I have to go this route, I'm assuming that building my own conditioner would start with finding out what voltage the ECU is looking for and going backwards from there?

The FSM says it's looking for 4 to 6v:

When it says "Turn the wheel" it is telling you to do that after you've jacked the truck up, turned the key to the ON position, and shifted the tranny into neutral. Then you turn one of the wheels to get the driveshaft to spin the sensor.

 

[HDavis]

I think what you are suggesting is what @HDavis was saying when he said he used the speedometer: not to use the speedometer as a gauge, but rather just the signal conditioner part of it.

Thats right. I 3d printed a little box and wired it inside it so that it wouldn't get damaged, like a little ecu box. I use my ultragauge for speed output as well as all other data.

 

[rover67]

If you wanted an off the shelf item could you use something like this?:

https://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/SGI-5e.pdf

But if you can use the donor speedo that seems cheaper.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Thanks Dave. I should have paid more attention to all of this when I learned it in the Navy. But then again, we just covered it at a basic level and when we put it into use for maintenance, our procedures were written at a first grade level. If we hooked up an oscilloscope to something, the procedure would tell us what buttons to push and what the screen should look like.

I think what you are suggesting is what @HDavis was saying when he said he used the speedometer: not to use the speedometer as a gauge, but rather just the signal conditioner part of it. But just for the sake of discussion, and if I have to go this route, I'm assuming that building my own conditioner would start with finding out what voltage the ECU is looking for and going backwards from there?

The FSM says it's looking for 4 to 6v:
View attachment 102016
When it says "Turn the wheel" it is telling you to do that after you've jacked the truck up, turned the key to the ON position, and shifted the tranny into neutral. Then you turn one of the wheels to get the driveshaft to spin the sensor.

I may be misunderstanding then. I read it as modifying your gauge cluster to still be a speedo but also be the conditioner.

If it doesn't need to swing the needle or is becoming a separate box then just seems like kind of overkill just to get what you could do with a transistor or Schmitt trigger and a few resistors and caps. But if you're planning to use OBD-II or something to drive gauges but plan to leave the combo meter in place for looks then, sure, might as well use the electronics for something.

I'd not be surprised at all to find the ECU on a 100 would still be simple 5V TTL on external I/O.

The problem is you're flying kind of blind here. It's pretty well agreed the processor itself wants a clean square wave. The speed sensors are *I think* passive, which are just Hall Effect. That's a magnet passing in front of a coil, so the voltage they produce is sinusoidal.

What happens in between is guessing. There might be a trigger circuit at the sensor (I'm pretty sure the sensors are not active though) which means the gauges and ECU connectors need to be tested IMO. You really should hang an oscilloscope at various places, that's the only way to know for sure. There might be a conditioning circuit Toyota put somewhere.