22RE Injectors

[Telly]

Finally got time yesterday to finish replacing the aftermarket cheapy injectors with OEM injectors on the 85 T4R. The original connectors were half broken and brittle so I replaced the wires with solder and heat shrink. Reinstalled everything and when to fire it up and it just turned over with no start. It did fire briefly but would not stay running. The injectors are the only thing I did, nothing with timing, fuel, or ECM.

Per the Google, the connectors should show 12V at the plug with the ignition on. None of them do. I tested the wiring in front of the pig tail splice and no voltage reading there either. I plan to pull the upper intake off and test the olms of each injector to rule out having a couple bad ones. I have a set of the newer style injectors that I could try, which means I need to change the connectors since they are different.

I may have mixed up which connector goes to the correct injector since I spliced the new connectors weeks ago and did not label the order (dumb move!) but I'm pretty sure I have them in the correct order. I wouldn't know how to verify unless I look at another 22RE for the routing.

I'm reaching out to see if anyone else has any other ideas. I know my way around a 2F and 1FZ but am a noob with these 22RE's. Thanks.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I haven't worked on a 1985 EFI (is a carb'd 1985 a burden or blessing?) but did on my 1991. The only difference is that the 1991 does not have the resistor in the circuit and wire colors are different.

You're right that there should be 12V on the injectors when you have the ignition switch on. Make sure you use a known good grounding point as reference and not the engine block or head. Well, I mean, don't trust the engine is ground unless you first check the cable to the firewall is connected (or is it a a wire from the block to frame, I forget).

I attached the 1985 EWD in PDF, the first page shows the complete circuit.

It's not complex, I believe in you. You have the skills to trace it. For all 4 to not have power there is likely a single point you'll find is the culprit. Also, electrically, you should see continuity on the +12V side from injector 1 to injector 2 and from injector 3 to injector 4. Same with the return side that goes to the computer. That is another way to make sure your work is solid and you got the polarity of the terminals right.

Don't forget to make sure the battery actually has 12V, you have good grounds and fuses/fusible links as your first sanity check.

Be systematic, work backwards up spots looking for 12V on that circuit before tearing into things too deep. For example check the (+) terminal on the ignition coil has power, it should come on with the key through almost the same common tie point. If it does then you know it's between the tie point and injectors. If the coil doesn't get power then you need to suspect more, the switch, the fusible link, etc.

ETA: Also attached the EFI chapter from the FSM.

 

[Telly]

Thanks Dave!

 

[Telly]

Sometimes you just have to step back from a project for a day and refocus. I was looking at the engine bay this morning planning my attack per Dave’s excellent suggestions and noticed a wire tucked under distributor that wasn’t connected. It’s for the igniter and didn’t notice it until this morning. My problem is solved.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Outstanding!