cbmontgo
Hard Core 4+
So awesome, Marco!
1982 FJ40 Restoration
- Thread starter rover67
- Start date
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Thanks!
Tonight I came home to an empty house after the Jenny creek workday so you bet I was back in the garage after scarfing down some dinner.
I had to massage the window regulators I got from cruiser corps to get them to go up and down nicely but I finally got them working and got the front door glass in both sides. The factory regulators were shot and they are NLA so aftermarket was pretty much my only option there.. I did use a new set of Toyota window runs as well as Toyota seals on the inside and outside of the windows at the bottom. The glass isn't perfect but it's factory glass so it's staying. It cleaned up pretty well with some steel wool and windex. That's the same thing I did for the rest of the glass also.
Lastly I noticed in all the pictures of factory trucks the bolts for the windshield hinges weren't painted with the body, and mine were weird aftermarket ones (CCOT)... so I replaced them with new OEM ones. The stainless bolts from overland metric, which I also got but didn't use, were a perfect match... so that's pretty awesome.
Tonight I came home to an empty house after the Jenny creek workday so you bet I was back in the garage after scarfing down some dinner.
I had to massage the window regulators I got from cruiser corps to get them to go up and down nicely but I finally got them working and got the front door glass in both sides. The factory regulators were shot and they are NLA so aftermarket was pretty much my only option there.. I did use a new set of Toyota window runs as well as Toyota seals on the inside and outside of the windows at the bottom. The glass isn't perfect but it's factory glass so it's staying. It cleaned up pretty well with some steel wool and windex. That's the same thing I did for the rest of the glass also.
Lastly I noticed in all the pictures of factory trucks the bolts for the windshield hinges weren't painted with the body, and mine were weird aftermarket ones (CCOT)... so I replaced them with new OEM ones. The stainless bolts from overland metric, which I also got but didn't use, were a perfect match... so that's pretty awesome.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
OEM mirrors on! That was an easy win.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
The stock truck had tar paper on the floorboards so I went ahead and put some down on this one. It's not exactly like it was stock but it's close. The stock truck had it down on the bare metal then painted but I wanted paint under it so it's slightly out of order. I used Wurth material since it looked like the best close to OEM option and I like their products. I was hesitant to put it down but I actually like it. I still need to do the other side, but the passenger side is done!
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smslavin
0
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Yes it's similar in function to something like Dynamat.
So I took a few steps back last night, the roll bar I made from an older one by removing the set belt brackets from my old one and welding them on. Well, i got them backwards. an easy way to fix it will be to just flip the roll bar around and put the pads on the other side. I'll have to weld up the little holes for the pads on the front side and get it re powder coated....
Also, I discovered that the seat belt mount bolts are all 7/16"-20tpi. I ordered a tap to chase the seatbelt threads in various parts. I need to wait on the tap before I finish the heater inside since the heater is super close to the mount points. I also ran out of the sound deadening so I need to wait on more of that to get here now.
I thought that thread size was interesting.
So I took a few steps back last night, the roll bar I made from an older one by removing the set belt brackets from my old one and welding them on. Well, i got them backwards. an easy way to fix it will be to just flip the roll bar around and put the pads on the other side. I'll have to weld up the little holes for the pads on the front side and get it re powder coated....
Also, I discovered that the seat belt mount bolts are all 7/16"-20tpi. I ordered a tap to chase the seatbelt threads in various parts. I need to wait on the tap before I finish the heater inside since the heater is super close to the mount points. I also ran out of the sound deadening so I need to wait on more of that to get here now.
I thought that thread size was interesting.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
The 7/16-20 is suggested in Federal vehicle safety laws. Why they might choose SAE instead of metric equivalent, no idea. Could be only U.S. vehicle had it or they just choose it not to give an inspector any reason to question it. The rule itself mixes SAE and metric, which is also weird.
§571.209 S4.1(f)
https://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-i...f1350a1&mc=true&node=se49.6.571_1209&rgn=div8
If the link doesn't work:
§571.209 S4.1(f)
https://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-i...f1350a1&mc=true&node=se49.6.571_1209&rgn=div8
If the link doesn't work:
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Yep that's correct Dave... Also there is a lot of discussion online that suggests the bolts are actually m11x1.25 and they are super close but not correct. A 1.25mm pitch gauge rocks back and forth on the threads, unable to fully seat.
nuclearlemon
Hard Core 4+
standard sizing goes all the way back to the early cruisers apparently, because annie was standard also
rover67
Rising Sun Member
rover67
Rising Sun Member
rover67
Rising Sun Member
starting work on patching sunroof hole tonight!
FJCDan
Rising Sun Member
Looking really nice Marco.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Thanks! You all are my motivation!
I decided to put the floor mat in. I also figured out why my brake warning light was staying on... I had the brake fluid level sensor plug mixed up with the carb fan plug.
I need to figure out if the stock mat was split where the heater lines go. It looks like it won't lay right otherwise.. Posted on mud..
I decided to put the floor mat in. I also figured out why my brake warning light was staying on... I had the brake fluid level sensor plug mixed up with the carb fan plug.
I need to figure out if the stock mat was split where the heater lines go. It looks like it won't lay right otherwise.. Posted on mud..
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rover67
Rising Sun Member
More steps backwards! I went to tighten the intake and exhaust manifold bolts and lost a socket in there so I had to pull the carb. I hadn't retorqued since the top end so it needed to happen. And..... Jackson I need that carb spacer. I broke mine dough!
simps80
Rising Sun Member
so much 40 lust....
that floor mat is insane
that floor mat is insane
That's one of my favorite little pieces.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
I'm like "neat new mirror... whats that stub?" search and viola! It takes the little stand off! its fun when geeking out is a 2$ part.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Thanks! You all are my motivation!
I decided to put the floor mat in. I also figured out why my brake warning light was staying on... I had the brake fluid level sensor plug mixed up with the carb fan plug.
I need to figure out if the stock mat was split where the heater lines go. It looks like it won't lay right otherwise.. Posted on mud..
So it looks like the back part where the heater lines pop out does need to be separated along the precut marks! Mud is a great resource! (so is Adam, thanks for confirming!)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/floor-mat-question-1982.1006128/#post-11176199