100 series windshield replacement

nakman

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Working through the short list of items prior to Moab, and this is one of the last items... my windshield is cracked and I need a new one. anything special to worry about? Places to use, or avoid? just curious if there is the same gasket/glue paranoia as with the 80's. :beer:
 

Crash

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Working through the short list of items prior to Moab, and this is one of the last items... my windshield is cracked and I need a new one. anything special to worry about? Places to use, or avoid? just curious if there is the same gasket/glue paranoia as with the 80's. :beer:

Don't forget the rivets! Haven't had the job done with the 100 yet but maybe Christo would have some good advice?
 

nakman

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rivets?
 

Crash

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The windshield's outside molding is riveted in place and has to come off before removing the old windshield. Unless auto glass shops have a workaround for not removing the rivets it appears, looking at the FSM, that four rivets on each side of the glass need to be removed and then new rivets installed after the new glass is in place.
Let us know what your experience turns out, Nak.
 

Crash

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Going to call BVB's SIL who is a tech at Stevinson tomorrow for his input. The Mud thread does make it sound a little complicated, doesn't it? My experience with Safelite -used to be Elite? - was really bad when they replaced the 80 windshield. Nothing $500 at the body shop couldn't fix. :rant:
 

AimCOTaco

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Good topic Nak, mine is also cracked but instead of rivets, mine came with drywall screws installed!

I really need to get mine done before it starts to rot or leak. Electrical tape and hiding from salt is not a good long term solution.

Mud lives in fear of bad windshield jobs and I've also been meaning to ask Christo for a recommendation to that end. There is also some expensive trim that can be re-used or destroyed depending on the installer.
 

nakman

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Ok great, will be interested to see what you guys come up with also.

And what is interesting is my windshield was almost perfect- had 2 chips in it, that I'd had for years. Then one night I heard a pop and there was a crack connecting one of them to the bottom of the window. Within 2 days the crack had spread across the bottom... now I've almost got a vertical crack splitting the window in two, it's about halfway down now. It's like all of a sudden that piece of glass said I've had enough, usually you watch these things creep for years and this has all been in the last 30 days.
 
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The 100 windshield if done wrong makes a lot wind noise at highway speeds and could leak. This guy was recommended by a member to me years back as a local installer who specifically has experience with the 100 series and has done many.

Matt at Diamond auto glass.

office
303-430-4214

cell
720-435-0007
 

Crash

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The 100 windshield if done wrong makes a lot wind noise at highway speeds and could leak. This guy was recommended by a member to me years back as a local installer who specifically has experience with the 100 series and has done many.

Matt at Diamond auto glass.

office
303-430-4214

cell
720-435-0007

For sure, the job looks like one for an experienced pro. Wouldn't want my truck to be somebody's first try at it.
 

nakman

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nakman

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I called Rusty. He said the only available window option has a bronze tint to it, so I guess that's what we'll go with. Seemed to remember messing with channels and rivets, wasn't overly concerned... new window gets installed on Monday. Will post up the results!
 

CardinalFJ60

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lx vs. lc?

When I had mine done on the LX I had to get some trim pieces replaced, too - they run up the A-pillar IIRC.

Not sure if they are the same on the LC, but I remember they had to get ordered.
 

rover67

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I've used rusty for our Jetta and 60 a few times, he's a nice straight up dude. I'd be interested to know his strategy on the rivets.
 

OilHammer

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I've used rusty for our Jetta and 60 a few times, he's a nice straight up dude. I'd be interested to know his strategy on the rivets.

I'm too lazy to click on the link and read again, but from what I recall:
You need to have a metric drill and metric TOYOTA rivets that fit the holes properly. I also seem to think they said you need a 90d rivet gun to clear the glass. Beyond that, there are two rubber strips that pop into the channels and cover the rivets to keep them from whistling. Uhm...what else...seems that most people recommending using an aftermarket w/s gasket since the top edge protrudes over the painted leading edge of the roof and resists rock chips in a tricky spot.

Since mine has been cracked for a year, I was thinking about taking it to the dealer for the replacement, but I've never had it priced. My coworker had Safelite do his truck, and they destroyed it. Dented sheet metal, gasket sealer on the seats, etc. The guy left footprint stains on the upper portions of the front seats!
 

Crash

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Yeah, my experience with Safelite (Elite) also, including breaking the first replacement glass. Never again.
Hope Rusty has you covered, Tim. Wind noise from the upper windshield area seems to be a quick way to assess the quality of work performed. Please keep us all apprised of the situation.
 

nakman

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Appointment's tomorrow at noon! he also called on Friday and said he located a green tint windshield, so I'm getting that now instead of the bronze one.
 

nakman

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Here is what I have learned so far:

1. You can take that FSM back to where you found it, I'm not interested. You're not one of those people are you?
2. Don't need to worry about the rivets, last guy already drilled yours out and used screws
3. The snorkel is in the way, should be removed. ( I have it unbolted from the a pillar and shoved out a little, but couldn't pull the fender skirt here at work to remove the other side.)
 

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nakman

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Apparently that wasn't the only short cut the last guy took.
 

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