Guzzler/Not Megan Fox 1984 FJ60

I’m no carb expert but I have played with 2F carb jets some time ago. Short version of the story is after trying an assortment of other jets, some just one two two sizes off stock, I came back to stock and passed emissions with good overall performance with a Jim C carb rebuild. I don’t know what his work did that I didn’t do, but it worked amazingly well.

Crash said:

If you want to try a quick and easy fix for the power steering system try a bottle of Lucas Steering System Stop Leak. It worked on a Jaguar I once owned - it should work on a Toyota too.

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Worked for me on the 80 as well. One bottle after a fluid change and it has not leaked since. I think that was about 5 years ago. Its good stuff.

Secondary slow cut jet leaks on every one of these carbs. No replacement parts at all. Some guys on Mud remove the plunger, tap the hole, and insert a bolt … but not too far or it blocks a passage. Haven’t tried, I drive the leak

60wag said:

I’m no carb expert but I have played with 2F carb jets some time ago. Short version of the story is after trying an assortment of other jets, some just one two two sizes off stock, I came back to stock and passed emissions with good overall performance with a Jim C carb rebuild. I don’t know what his work did that I didn’t do, but it worked amazingly well.

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If I've got the spare, it would probably be beneficial to send it to Jim C if he's still doing rebuilds. I found his contact info on Mud. I'll pull that thread and see where it takes me.

I'm a bit stubborn due to one quote: "If it exists in one person's compass, it can exist within yours."
I also recognize where I fall in the the Dunning-Kruger Curve... (I'm a 100 miles away in the plains leading to Mt. Stupid.)

It'll be good to chat through some things if I can get Jim C on the horn.

Cruisertrash said:

Secondary slow cut jet leaks on every one of these carbs. No replacement parts at all. Some guys on Mud remove the plunger, tap the hole, and insert a bolt … but not too far or it blocks a passage. Haven’t tried, I drive the leak

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I'm just gonna let 'er ride then. Still not sure what was causing the issue.

Update:

Drove the 60 around for some chores and did some highway time. (Picked up a bottle of Lucas oil stop leak.)
Note to self: Don't over fill the gas tank. The old hose leading to the filler neck through the body starts dribbling fuel. (Curse you thermal expansion.) Might be time to refresh some of those old lines. My understanding is the OEM hoses are NLA, so Gates replacement it will be.

I'm still getting some issues with idle/throttle input as the engine bay warms. I rolled into the driveway and had to fight to keep the engine running.
Steady throttle input was unpredictable/jerky, idle kept trying to drop off. It seems like a pretty low threshold to be fighting vapor lock.
I understand there's only so much you can do to stave off vapor lock in a carb, but 40 min around town and 10 min on the highway seems like something else is afoot.

Ruminations:
When I lean dropped, I warmed the engine up, but it wasn't "Just got off the highway in 80 degree weather," running temps.
The easy answer appears to duplicate heavy driving, then plug a vac gauge/Tach to lean drop.
If that isn't the answer, then we'll figure something out.
Given the fuel issues earlier, I'm sensitized to crud in the fuel system. Fuel window/filter are both clean. It's had only ethanol free since the tank swap. (Ethanol free? In this economy?)

There's some chewed wires in the engine bay. I haven't seen the cooling fan kick on for the carb. Probably have to chase that issue down.

That said, we're getting closer. Start up no longer requires starter fluid. 1/2 choke gets it to 1200 rpm. Once the temp gauge needle touches the painted area, I open the choke and it runs per usual (RPMs are a little high - 750-800, meh). Subsequent starts are uneventful. I've been using every excuse to drive it. The doggos love the bench seat in the back.

MonPetiteShoe said:

Given the fuel issues earlier, I'm sensitized to crud in the fuel system. Fuel window/filter are both clean. It's had only ethanol free since the tank swap. (Ethanol free? In this economy?)

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New fuel filters never hurt. They're cheap, get a bunch and change them weekly if you're worried about crud from the lines.

MonPetiteShoe said:

There's some chewed wires in the engine bay. I haven't seen the cooling fan kick on for the carb. Probably have to chase that issue down.

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The carb fan is 100% key for hot restarts. Not sure if you're having a problem there, but a working carb fan makes all the difference in getting home for the grocery store or sitting there waiting for the motor to cool off for half an hour before you can fire it up again.


Remind me: how's the fuel cut solenoid? Tested? Passes the test? Sometimes they pass the test but are intermittent. Check those two wires for mouse chews!

Also, have you set the valve lash?

Cruisertrash said:

New fuel filters never hurt. They're cheap, get a bunch and change them weekly if you're worried about crud from the lines.


The carb fan is 100% key for hot restarts. Not sure if you're having a problem there, but a working carb fan makes all the difference in getting home for the grocery store or sitting there waiting for the motor to cool off for half an hour before you can fire it up again.


Remind me: how's the fuel cut solenoid? Tested? Passes the test? Sometimes they pass the test but are intermittent. Check those two wires for mouse chews!

Also, have you set the valve lash?

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I've got a few filters that I picked up from Decatur. I think I'm out of the 'crudening,' but it never hurts.

A brief glance at the carb fan under the hood: The thermal switch under the intake/attached to the EGR piping has no wires running to it. That's for sure an issue. No sensor, no fan. I'll need to check the system out. (Note: diagram is for an FJ40.)


Hot restarts haven't been an issue so far, I'll chock that up to a dash of luck.
The issue arises when I'm driving.
Oddly enough, The rough idle/part-throttle operation issues subside after only a couple minutes with the engine off. i.e. Fight to get it in the garage, Chat with wife about it. Hop in the truck and it fires up and returns to idle RPM without choke.

Fuel cut solenoid:
Wiring at the carb is free of chews, and has been tested. She be clickin' when given 12V. Wiring from carb to engine bay/computer have not been tested. I should be seeing 12V at the female connection when keyed on, yes?. Given the smattering of wires that are just floating in space, I'd say it's a good place to start.

A few thoughts:
As temp increases, resistance also increases (yes?), that could lead to some intermitant fuel delivery issues.
An easy check would be spotting the fuel level in the bowl when the issue arises. If the solenoid is closing prematurely, fuel is cut off to the bowl showing a lower fuel level?
When the ignition is shut off, the engine follows suit immediatly.

Swapping that solenoid for a known good unit would probably be a good test as well.

Valve lash was set back before we ran into "The Troubles." I've probably put less than 400 miles on it since then. .008" and .014" for intake and exhaust respectively.

Does the idle vacuum change much between a cold engine and a hot engine? Feels like a vacuum leak to me.

60wag said:

Does the idle vacuum change much between a cold engine and a hot engine? Feels like a vacuum leak to me.

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I'm unconvinced the area that I plugged the vac gauge into is pulling the vacuum that I want to see.

I need to find my box of vac T's so I can hook up to the Brake booster barb in the intake mani. I think it's a more "pure," vacuum source
I'll take a look at both hot/cold vac numbers when I can get to it.

Before starting the lean drop, I pulled the airbox and blocked the carb inlet with some cardboard to see if the RPMs would rise or if the engine just dies. A brief rise would give an indication of vacuum leaks. No rise, just interrupted combustion and stalled engine. That's about as far as I got besides swapping vac lines as I get to them. Admittedly, I need to walk through all the emissions spaghetti and take inventory of what's there, what isn't, and what may be routed incorrectly. Even if it's not directly causing my driving woes, it's better to get it all sorted.

MonPetiteShoe said:

I've got a few filters that I picked up from Decatur. I think I'm out of the 'crudening,' but it never hurts.

A brief glance at the carb fan under the hood: The thermal switch under the intake/attached to the EGR piping has no wires running to it. That's for sure an issue. No sensor, no fan. I'll need to check the system out. (Note: diagram is for an FJ40.)


Hot restarts haven't been an issue so far, I'll chock that up to a dash of luck.
The issue arises when I'm driving.
Oddly enough, The rough idle/part-throttle operation issues subside after only a couple minutes with the engine off. i.e. Fight to get it in the garage, Chat with wife about it. Hop in the truck and it fires up and returns to idle RPM without choke.

Fuel cut solenoid:
Wiring at the carb is free of chews, and has been tested. She be clickin' when given 12V. Wiring from carb to engine bay/computer have not been tested. I should be seeing 12V at the female connection when keyed on, yes?. Given the smattering of wires that are just floating in space, I'd say it's a good place to start.

A few thoughts:
As temp increases, resistance also increases (yes?), that could lead to some intermitant fuel delivery issues.
An easy check would be spotting the fuel level in the bowl when the issue arises. If the solenoid is closing prematurely, fuel is cut off to the bowl showing a lower fuel level?
When the ignition is shut off, the engine follows suit immediatly.

Swapping that solenoid for a known good unit would probably be a good test as well.

Valve lash was set back before we ran into "The Troubles." I've probably put less than 400 miles on it since then. .008" and .014" for intake and exhaust respectively.

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If hot restarts aren't an issue you're in the clear for now - the fan only runs when the truck shuts down. Just ground the floating wire that used to go to the temp sensor and it'll run for a full 20 minutes at shut down.

Moving on... Your FCS is probably fine, I'd save finding a replacement for later. FCS doesn't affect fuel level in the bowl, it just closes off the meter of fuel from the bowl into the intake. IF the wires behind the driver side kick panel near the "computer" are a mess you might want to get that sorted. You're a long way off from this, but if you determine the computer is bad there's a guy on Mud who rebuilds and tests them. I also have a spare that I'm 97.2% sure is good.

Definitely tee into the AirCon vac fitting and run a vac gauge into the cabin. See what it tells you.

You don't have the dreaded cracked intake manifold, do you? Sometimes they crack directly below the carb. IT's easiest to see with the carb removed but you can kind of get an idea opening the butterfly by hand.

Choke knob pushed all the way in makes the choke butterfly go completely open, yeah?