Guzzler/Not Megan Fox 1984 FJ60

MonPetiteShoe

RS Club Commander
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
761
Location
Aurora
I am currently sonicating* my collection... 🤓🤣

* @DanS tells me that I can't call an ultrasonic bath a sonicator. Whatever. Sonicate is a verb and a sonicator is the apparatus that sonicates. Am I weird or is he crazy? You decide. 🤣
Ahem... Ultrasonicator. Ultrasonicating. You want those coins 'er nah? I soaked them in what ever the green stuff was in a spray bottle I found. It didn't work very well.
Is that cooling fan OEM?!
I haven't the faintest idea. It certainly pulls air across the radiator. There's an Aisin fan clutch available on Rock Auto. If it ain't broke...
Please let me bring over the dry ice and the box of the sound deadening I have left over. I need to relive the dry ice breaking the OE floor material. I’m beg of you.
I'm working on disinfecting everything. This weekend is busy, but my week is wide open for the most part. I believe next weekend is open. You got my digits.
I was just going to leave the OEM sound deadening in and slap somma them panels of yours on there all willy-nilly. She ain't pretty, and she ain't gonna be pretty, but by-god she gonna run well.

IMG_3971.JPG

Pulled the heater/Evap core. Lawd... They're gnarly.

IMG_3969.JPG

IMG_3968.JPG

I'll look into tearing these down and seeing if it's salvageable... I just need clean air to blow across that heater core. I'm not worried about A/C yet. Might smell a bit like bleach though...
 

Cruisertrash

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Aug 18, 2020
Messages
3,042
Location
Denver
Ahem... Ultrasonicator. Ultrasonicating. You want those coins 'er nah? I soaked them in what ever the green stuff was in a spray bottle I found. It didn't work very well.

I haven't the faintest idea. It certainly pulls air across the radiator. There's an Aisin fan clutch available on Rock Auto. If it ain't broke...

I'm working on disinfecting everything. This weekend is busy, but my week is wide open for the most part. I believe next weekend is open. You got my digits.
I was just going to leave the OEM sound deadening in and slap somma them panels of yours on there all willy-nilly. She ain't pretty, and she ain't gonna be pretty, but by-god she gonna run well.

IMG_3971.JPG

Pulled the heater/Evap core. Lawd... They're gnarly.

IMG_3969.JPG

IMG_3968.JPG

I'll look into tearing these down and seeing if it's salvageable... I just need clean air to blow across that heater core. I'm not worried about A/C yet. Might smell a bit like bleach though...
Where’s the hantavirus emoji when you need it???

Good to see some progress Josh!
 
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MonPetiteShoe

RS Club Commander
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
761
Location
Aurora
I tore apart the heater and Evap core... It was a sh*tshow, literally.

IMG_3991.JPG

IMG_3993.JPG

There was a layer of mouse peepeepoopoo about 3/8" or .375" thick... I used metal scrapers to no avail. This stuff was caked on there.
I pulled all the accoutrements and used a combination of bleach, brushes, wire wheels, and scrapers. Some of it worked, some of it was outclassed.
I filled a couple buckets with hot water/dawn and let the main components soak for about an hour.
It loosened everything up and came out looking pretty freakin' good. Another coat of bleach, followed by a hotwater rinse did the trick. Spot cleaned as needed.

The heater core/evap look ok. They're still old/NLA parts. I'd rather replace them, but the garbage will have to do.

IMG_3995.JPG

This has been sitting in the back of my mind for nearly a year now... Lawd it's a relief.
Unfortunately, the 40+ year old foam on all the gates did not survive the ordeal. I may look into throwing some 1/8" foam around to seal things up a bit. Everything functions, but now it's kinda loud when you actuate the controls.

A few things while I've got the interior pulled:
I replaced the driver/passenger seatbelts with some 'newer,' units. These units actually retract.

I'll need to pressure wash/soap/vac the carpet. It's in rough shape, but that dog'll hunt.
I plan on disinfecting the rest of the cab and cleaning it up.
While I'm in there I can probably throw down some sound deadening.

All the seats are pretty dirty. I need to find a solution to that. Might see if a detail shop has an extractor on the cheap.
Worst case, I can scrub 'em down and shop vac some of the moisture out.
 
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Johnny Utah

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2015
Messages
1,573
Location
Arvada
I replaced the driver/passenger seatbelts with some 'newer,' units. These units actually contract.
Retract.

Excellent! What a mess. Well done brudda.
 

J1000

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2018
Messages
1,905
Location
Morrison, CO
This has been sitting in the back of my mind for nearly a year now... Lawd it's a relief.
Unfortunately, the 40+ year old foam on all the gates did not survive the ordeal. I may look into throwing some 1/8" foam around to seal things up a bit. Everything functions, but now it's kinda loud when you actuate the controls.
Put some grease or something on all the pivots and springs to help quiet and smooth it out.

Good work conquering shit mountain!
 

MonPetiteShoe

RS Club Commander
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
761
Location
Aurora
Whoooo look at that!

Those cleaned up really nicely.

Let's catch up, and we could bring the pressure washer and/or tiny rug shampooer for carpets and seats.

Dan
Hell yuh!

I could use a rug shampooer!

I'm free until August.
 

MonPetiteShoe

RS Club Commander
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
761
Location
Aurora
Installed Heater/Evap cores, made sure all controls functioned as intended.
I pulled the driver/passenger sound deadening and replaced it with some new hotness courtesy of @IH8RUST (No pics, sorry fam.)
Put the dash back together with only a few missing screwgies... I think Toyota put extras in there on purpose. Dan made the work go faster.

@DanS stopped by with his wizbang carpet cleaner and gave the carpets/seats a good shampooin' (Bonus footage of Dan and I on a test drive.) Lawd they were dirty. The carpet took to it the best. They went from brown and gross to brown and surprisingly soft.
The seats look mo' betta, but they've still had 40 years of butt in them.

I installed a new dashcap. The fit is still a little weird/tight in a few places, but it looks good. Time will tell if the RTV will hold.

IMG_4004.JPG

A couple items before I start driving it again:
Button up heater hoses at the firewall. Add/burp coolant.
Install seats
Throw in some new door cards courtesy of @IH8RUST (They were a bugger to get into place. They toit.)
After a bit of strategic hammering/coercing I stepped back to admire the work and something was a bit off. Oh yea... Cut the fabric for the door/window handle. FFS.

Fresh to death.

IMG_4007.JPG

I'll probably throw the passenger door card in and leave it at that for a bit.

The hope is to get it ready for the July Meeting.
I'll see if the current carb set up is up for the task. Otherwise, a new unit will need to take it's place. It's lookin' mo'betta.
 

Johnny Utah

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2015
Messages
1,573
Location
Arvada
Wow, every little improvement you’ve made has done wonders for the truck! It’s great seeing it in small steps.
 

Cruisertrash

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Aug 18, 2020
Messages
3,042
Location
Denver
Installed Heater/Evap cores, made sure all controls functioned as intended.
I pulled the driver/passenger sound deadening and replaced it with some new hotness courtesy of @IH8RUST (No pics, sorry fam.)
Put the dash back together with only a few missing screwgies... I think Toyota put extras in there on purpose. Dan made the work go faster.

@DanS stopped by with his wizbang carpet cleaner and gave the carpets/seats a good shampooin' (Bonus footage of Dan and I on a test drive.) Lawd they were dirty. The carpet took to it the best. They went from brown and gross to brown and surprisingly soft.
The seats look mo' betta, but they've still had 40 years of butt in them.

I installed a new dashcap. The fit is still a little weird/tight in a few places, but it looks good. Time will tell if the RTV will hold.

IMG_4004.JPG

A couple items before I start driving it again:
Button up heater hoses at the firewall. Add/burp coolant.
Install seats
Throw in some new door cards courtesy of @IH8RUST (They were a bugger to get into place. They toit.)
After a bit of strategic hammering/coercing I stepped back to admire the work and something was a bit off. Oh yea... Cut the fabric for the door/window handle. FFS.

Fresh to death.

IMG_4007.JPG

I'll probably throw the passenger door card in and leave it at that for a bit.

The hope is to get it ready for the July Meeting.
I'll see if the current carb set up is up for the task. Otherwise, a new unit will need to take it's place. It's lookin' mo'betta.
I've got thoughts about that rear heater core ... mine is leaking at the valve (internal seal, non serviceable) and that's not uncommon. A guy on Mud has identified a ne-production Aisin electronic in-line valve from modern Toyotas that has the same hose diameter fittings. The bad: it's plastic. The good: it can be mounted under the truck so if it fails it doesn't make your floor pan and new sound deadening wet, and it's easily replaceable. I may go that route. The catch is that I would need to open up my heater core, cut out the valve, and solder in a piece of straight copper in it's place.

Anyway, rest of the work looks good! Strange that the door cards fit tight. I've interchanged a LOT of those and They've always lined up absolutely perfectly. Are you sure the top edge slotted into the window slot just right?
 

MonPetiteShoe

RS Club Commander
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
761
Location
Aurora
I've got thoughts about that rear heater core ... mine is leaking at the valve (internal seal, non serviceable) and that's not uncommon. A guy on Mud has identified a ne-production Aisin electronic in-line valve from modern Toyotas that has the same hose diameter fittings. The bad: it's plastic. The good: it can be mounted under the truck so if it fails it doesn't make your floor pan and new sound deadening wet, and it's easily replaceable. I may go that route. The catch is that I would need to open up my heater core, cut out the valve, and solder in a piece of straight copper in it's place.

Anyway, rest of the work looks good! Strange that the door cards fit tight. I've interchanged a LOT of those and They've always lined up absolutely perfectly. Are you sure the top edge slotted into the window slot just right?

I'd given some thought to deleting the rear seat heater entirely. I'll whiteboard it.
Modifying the heater core as you explained sounds interesting. I'm all about making maintenance easier. Let me know if you go that route, I'd like to see how it goes. I might follow suit.

The door cards: The top edge isn't seated as well as OEM. I had to form a few places with some pliers to get it mated. There's extra material at the front and rear of the top edge of the door card where it meets with the top edge of the door. The dimensions leave a little to be desired. It takes some minor tweaking to get it right.

I think moving forward I'm going to form the top edge of the door card to the door, remove it, then put the clips in.

06/30/2026
Wrapped up some heater lines, flushed/replaced coolant and fired the 60 up. It needed a little Starter fluid to get fuel where it needed to be.

I drove it around the neighborhood and on a section of 225. I'm running into the same issue as before. Once everything gets heat soaked from highway driving it loses power, stumbles and the idle falls off. Unmetered air/fuel once everything starts to expand.

I babied it back to the garage used the choke to idle up and got it back inside. There's some fuel seepage on the back side of the carb towards the firewall. Nothing major, but the base of the carb/linkage support is moist.
IMG_4012.png
I suspect the pin/dowel that actuates the butterfly valve is worn. It's also possible the insulator immediately above it (21165-61010) is the source.
I think it's time to pull this carb off and replace with my spare. I can get eyes on once it's on the bench.

That's the current project. When she runs, she runs smooth. Once she's been running, it starts easy under half-choke and a bump in throttle.
Despite the heat soaking issues, we threw the doggos in the back and drove over to the in-laws for dinner. No issues.
 

RDub

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
511
Location
Boulder, CO
I’m curious how 2F drivers start their trucks with a warm engine. My 60 has a weak motor but it lights right up warm with just a light hit to the gas pedal. No choke ever required except when cold. What are others doing?
 

Cruisertrash

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Aug 18, 2020
Messages
3,042
Location
Denver
I need to do this process every time, no matter the weather or if the engine is hot or cold. From -5*F ambient temp to 110, no difference. Just shut the truck off to get gas or cold start in the morning.

1. Pull choke halfway
2. One pump of the accelerator
3. Turn key and as soon as I hear it start to fire off, feather the throttle to open the butterfly just a bit (if I don’t do this it will not start).
4. Let it run for about 30 seconds with my foot just barely on the throttle (or it will idle low; too my choke too soon kills it)
5. Foot off throttle, pull choke the rest of the way out.

It was like this before and after the new motor.
 

MonPetiteShoe

RS Club Commander
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
761
Location
Aurora
Half choke, 1-3 pumps (lol), throttle in while I turn the key. Continue to monitor.


07/01/2026
I pulled the old carb and replaced with another factory unit. This one was unmolested.
Still had the plug over the mixture screw. That's gonna get drilled out.

IMG_4022.JPG

Replaced all the vac lines running to the carb, sans one silicone line for the choke opener. (It's easy to get to and it's in good shape.)

First start give me a bit of a scare. I pulled to half choke, (or what I thought was half choke) and started her up. She revved to 2500 rpm. I released the choke and it settled down to 700-800 rpm. Adjusted choke linkage.

First lean drop was hasty. I was chomping at the bit to drive it. Took it for a test drive and picked my wife up from work.
Unfortunately, This was around 3:45pm and I didn't get a chance to put some highway miles on it to see if it would get heat soaked again. That's today's task. Drive it. Let's see if that secondary is opening.


I believe I may have found the culprit/one of the culprits from the old carb.
The secondary slow-cut valve boot is trashed and leaking when I pulled it.

IMG_4017.JPG

The main throttle linkage had some evidence of leakage, but the dowel that runs through the carb to the butterfly valve didn't appear to be the source. More trouble shooting on that.

IMG_4018.JPG

The plan is to pull it apart on the bench and shine 'er up real good.
I'd like to rejet this carb for altitude and tinker with it a bit more. You know what they say: "Two is one, and one is none."

As for the new unit, I'll need to dive into the emissions manual and see what's missing/what isn't working.
The major milestones have been hit, now it's death by 1000 cuts.

While I was in the enginebay I noticed the "No. 3 hose," for the air injection system is sheared at the retainer (on the air injection rail). The smog pump is just blowing exhaust into the engine bay. Excellent. I'll need to pull/service the system. If anyone has any smog equipment laying around, I'll be your huckleberry.

That will give me some room to troubleshoot a leak in the powersteering system. It's hard to tell where PS fluid is coming from, whether it's the box, lines, or the OEM pump. Hopefully the pump is in good condition and hasn't been dumping on the smog pump.

There's a slow oil leak from the front/rear main seals. There's also a slow oil leak from the oil pan. Sigh. Might knock that out during the next oil change.

As for the near future, I'm going to drive it.
 

Crash

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2005
Messages
4,734
Location
Denver
Half choke, 1-3 pumps (lol), throttle in while I turn the key. Continue to monitor.


07/01/2026
I pulled the old carb and replaced with another factory unit. This one was unmolested.
Still had the plug over the mixture screw. That's gonna get drilled out.

IMG_4022.JPG

Replaced all the vac lines running to the carb, sans one silicone line for the choke opener. (It's easy to get to and it's in good shape.)

First start give me a bit of a scare. I pulled to half choke, (or what I thought was half choke) and started her up. She revved to 2500 rpm. I released the choke and it settled down to 700-800 rpm. Adjusted choke linkage.

First lean drop was hasty. I was chomping at the bit to drive it. Took it for a test drive and picked my wife up from work.
Unfortunately, This was around 3:45pm and I didn't get a chance to put some highway miles on it to see if it would get heat soaked again. That's today's task. Drive it. Let's see if that secondary is opening.


I believe I may have found the culprit/one of the culprits from the old carb.
The secondary slow-cut valve boot is trashed and leaking when I pulled it.

IMG_4017.JPG

The main throttle linkage had some evidence of leakage, but the dowel that runs through the carb to the butterfly valve didn't appear to be the source. More trouble shooting on that.

IMG_4018.JPG

The plan is to pull it apart on the bench and shine 'er up real good.
I'd like to rejet this carb for altitude and tinker with it a bit more. You know what they say: "Two is one, and one is none."

As for the new unit, I'll need to dive into the emissions manual and see what's missing/what isn't working.
The major milestones have been hit, now it's death by 1000 cuts.

While I was in the enginebay I noticed the "No. 3 hose," for the air injection system is sheared at the retainer (on the air injection rail). The smog pump is just blowing exhaust into the engine bay. Excellent. I'll need to pull/service the system. If anyone has any smog equipment laying around, I'll be your huckleberry.

That will give me some room to troubleshoot a leak in the powersteering system. It's hard to tell where PS fluid is coming from, whether it's the box, lines, or the OEM pump. Hopefully the pump is in good condition and hasn't been dumping on the smog pump.

There's a slow oil leak from the front/rear main seals. There's also a slow oil leak from the oil pan. Sigh. Might knock that out during the next oil change.

As for the near future, I'm going to drive it.
If you want to try a quick and easy fix for the power steering system try a bottle of Lucas Steering System Stop Leak. It worked on a Jaguar I once owned - it should work on a Toyota too.
 

MonPetiteShoe

RS Club Commander
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
761
Location
Aurora
What size jets were you planning on using? What's on there now?
I imagine I'm just running stock jets currently.

I also imagine the carb I removed had stock jets.

As for what I'd like to swap to... I need to do more research. Mud or otherwise.
 
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