
I've seen that one but don't have it. Would it make the difference here? Not sure. It's a summabch for sure. 48 hours of heat/puller/hammer/kroil/rest/repeat, and she hasn't moved a mm.Before you start cutting, Did you try the puller everyone recommends on Mud?
OTC 8150 Conical Pitman Arm Puller
I saw those - thanks man.If you can't find used, we keep new Japanese ones around.
Yeah, probably would. Proper puller, a big impact gun and heat. But, If its already buggered up from pounding on it, the cutting makes sense and you get to buy a new part instead of a new tool.I've seen that one but don't have it. Would it make the difference here? Not sure. It's a summabch for sure. 48 hours of heat/puller/hammer/kroil/rest/repeat, and she hasn't moved a mm.


I think everyone that has a 40 does... I have a seal from 30 years ago still waiting to go into a manual steering boxI need to do this at some point my box leaks quite a bit.

I need to do this at some point my box leaks quite a bit.
I think everyone that has a 40 does... I have a seal from 30 years ago still waiting to go into a manual steering box![]()
A true Cruiserhead would save some birf soup knowing it represents the perfect blend of both 90w and grease with the added benifit of moly for his steerig box.Right. And then you can dive into the debate over 90w (leaky) vs grease (less leaky) belonging in the gearbox. I'm going to grease the bearings, the seals and the brass bushing, but otherwise fill it with 90 wt per the FSM.