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Probably a grenaded transfer case

DaveInDenver

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That $499 is for hte backing plates and doesn't get you calipers, rotors, hubs, pads or the hydraulics you might need (maybe a different master cylinder or proportioning valve I'd think).
 

DouglasVB

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That $499 is for hte backing plates and doesn't get you calipers, rotors, hubs, pads or the hydraulics you might need (maybe a different master cylinder or proportioning valve I'd think).
Hmm I've got an upgraded master already and a proportioning valve to make the current disk brakes on the rear axle work so maybe I'd be okay there. Dunno if the minitruck calipers and rotors would work or if I'd need to switch to the newer 4runner stuff?

Have you seen a good write-up on the steps to install that kit?

Kinda sounds like it's out of my price range right now. 😥
 

DouglasVB

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Ordered:
  • Dual t-case adapter from Advanced Adapters ✅
  • Seals and such from Marlin Crawler ✅
  • FIPG ✅
  • Few odds and ends bolts ✅
  • T-case oil ✅

Still to get:
  • Used t-case (coming soon)
  • Parts for the Sky MFG driveline e-brake yoke assembly (should have it at Home Depot... might order parts from somewhere online though):
    • 1 3/8-16 x 5.25 ALLTHREAD
    • 2 3/8 Jam Nuts
    • 2 3/8 Yokes
    • 1 Cotter Pin
    • 2 Yoke Pins
Looks like the t-case adapter may take a while to come. I'm saving a few hundred bucks versus getting it from Trail Gear where they could ship ASAP. Hopefully that's the right choice 😬

EDIT:

Just shipped my driveline off to get rebuilt up in San Jose ✅
 
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DouglasVB

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Does anyone have ideas on the best/least expensive way to ship a complete transfer case from Colorado to California? I'm guessing this isn't something you'd walk into FedEx, ask them to box, and ship.

I've got a front-shift t-case (which I think I can convert to top-shift with all of the spare parts I'll have laying around) that's mine if I can figure out shipping.
 

On the RX

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I can ask my bro. He ships and receives oil field equipment on pallets weekly. I do know that if you have it delivered to a residential or a place without a loading dock, it is more expensive because they need to have a lift gate on the ttruck. I'm sure if a fork lift is available then you could skip the loading dock.
I would strongly recommend it being steel banded to a solid pallet.
 

Danger Noodle

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Fastenal for shipping. I've also had good luck with YRC when I had stuff sent from Georg at Valley Hybrids. They won't ship to residential, but you can always pick it up from one of their drop centers.
 

rover67

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You can also just ship UPS/FedEx if it’s less than 70lbs or so. I just shipped a whole motor (broken down) that way to havasu.

It was reasonable.

if you could get the case to me I’d pack and ship for ya. Can’t be that big right?
 

Danger Noodle

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I have shipped a 38mm split case through UPS. I think it was like 90 LBS dry, but they will do stuff up to 150 LBS.
 

DouglasVB

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The driveline shop said my driveline is toast. Double cardan is shot (which I knew) but also the slide-y bit is screwed up. And the guy asked why I even had this driveline in the first place. He was surprised it had been on the truck as long as it had been. Sounds like when the truck was built many years ago, the shop that built it went with the cheapest option and not the option that's right for a dual t-case truck that sees highway and off-pavement.

So the driveline shop proposed to do the following which I've agreed to:
  • 37 Degree Capable Double Cardan, lube-able
  • Spicer Slip and Spline
  • 2.5x .134w Tubing - seamless, Cromoly
  • Solid UJ at the slip yoke
And I'm going to get it painted teal because... why not? 😁

This particular shop is extremely well-regarded by the local 4x4 community. Guy has been very responsive, kind, and understanding through this process. So I'm comfortable trusting him on this.

The shop was apologetic that they can only get it back to me by the end of this week. That's *so much faster* than previous driveline work I've had done in Oregon and Colorado where it could take weeks and weeks.

Price is going to be something like $550 total including shipping it back and forth to San Jose from Monterey. And that's only something like $150 more than what I paid to get the driveline rebuilt when the double cardan failed four years ago back in Oregon by the best regarded driveline shop for the 4x4 community up there.
 

DaveInDenver

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Is it the front shaft that failed or the back? The front IFS double cardans (if that's what was used) can't do high angles but the rears I thought were all the same. I assumed whoever did the twin case would have just shortened/lengthened what was there. That's what you want just as long as the double cardan is in good shape. Toyota OEM stuff is better then Dana/Spicer or Neapco generally speaking but if you need a double cardan then finding and rebuilding a Toyota is kind of a rabbit hole where a brand new Spicer 13x0 might make sense.
 

DouglasVB

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Is it the front shaft that failed or the back? The front IFS double cardens (if that's what was used) can't do high angles but the rears I thought were all the same. I assumed whoever did the twin case would have just shortened/lengthened what was there.

It's the back shaft.
 

Hulk

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Does anyone have ideas on the best/least expensive way to ship a complete transfer case from Colorado to California? I'm guessing this isn't something you'd walk into FedEx, ask them to box, and ship.
UShip is another good option. I had a whole 1FZ engine block shipped to me on a pallet this way.
 

DouglasVB

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Small update: waiting for some parts to come next week so I can get to work reassembling the t-cases.

Finally got around to putting the battery on a battery tender today since I figure it's another 1-2 weeks before I'm back on the road.
 

DouglasVB

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Sneak peak of the new driveshaft:

1615594832763.png
 

DouglasVB

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I got the new-to-me front t-case and new Advance Adaptors dual t-case adapter together today. After I finish scraping off old paper gaskets tomorrow morning, I'll get the back t-case and the output shaft/4x4 assembly put together. Then it'll be time to fix the e-brake and then put it back into the truck. Gotta say... these old t-cases are really easy to work on.

1615686530704.png


1615686558515.png


1615686577470.png


1615686600301.png


Interesting thing I found in the new-to-me t-case. The oil slinger (I think that's what this is?) had most of its teeth broken off. I found a few of them in the bottom of the t-case. Luckily the other t-cases have enough harvestable parts that it didn't matter and I was able to work around this (didn't need to use this part).

1615686680913.png


I'm pretty sure the t-case had never been opened before based on the gaskets. Also there was so much crud on the outside of that t-case. Wow.
 

DouglasVB

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Wow surprised you got parts so fast, that’s great! You can be up and running hopefully soon

🤞🏻

I'm realizing the next big challenge is how to get it back into the truck. When I dropped the transmission and t-cases out of the truck four or five years ago, I had a friend help me to get it all back in. We both worked out at the same gym at the time and had decent bench press numbers which really helped with trying to jack the whole mess back up into the truck on the sketchy little transmission scissor lift I've got.

This is the transmission scissor lift that I've got: https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lbs-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

Now it's just me and I don't lift anymore so there's no way I can bench press this whole thing back into the truck. And that little transmission scissor lift is still sketchy as ever. The problem is the crossmember is of the belly pan style. It slides around on the lift. Even with the retaining strap that the lift has, it won't stay in place.

Maybe it's time to get an engine hoist and hoist the whole assembly in place? I could use the holes in the floor of the truck for the shift sticks to do that. I need an engine hoist anyway to put the engine into an old mustang as payment for the use of my friend's driveway.

EDIT:

Or could I wait to put the crossmember in until after the t-cases are in place? I could use a ratchet strap to help support it like I did with the transmission. This is the crossmember: https://trail-gear.com/catalog/product/view/_ignore_category/1/id/7197/s/crossmember-kit/
 
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DouglasVB

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Well everything was going great until it wasn't. Something is binding when I mate the rear t case with the adapter plate. Initially if it was less than 1/4" gap between the plate and the case, the gears wouldn't turn. I decided to try tightening it all the way and now it can be within maybe 1/8" and 1/16" before it binds. I thought maybe it was the bearing retainer that screws into the t case so I removed it but I still have the problem. I'm wondering if it's just the adapter plate bearings finding their center or if there's something else going on. The shaft from the t case to the adapter appears to have enough clearance inside the adapter. Also when I split them apart, it's really challenging because the big bearing tries to stay with the adapter.

IMG_20210314_134119456.jpg


That's how far I could initially get it without binding.

IMG_20210314_142951635_HDR.jpg


Nothing appears wrong here.

IMG_20210314_142945217_HDR.jpg


All looks good here, too.

There's something I'm missing but I don't know what.
 

DouglasVB

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So I'm thinking it might be the specific set of 4.7:1 gears I have from marlin crawler. It's a full spline set and it looks like the spline on the adapter is interfering with the bottom of the spline cut on the gears. I guess I could swap the t cases and have the 4.7:1 gears up front although I know that's not a good idea. Don't really want to grind on the gear shaft. Not really sure what I should try next.

IMG_20210314_155431690.jpg
 
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