Brahma On-Board Air

subzali

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SOR has them for $20-$90. Don't really know the difference between all of those, but...
 

subzali

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Uncle Ben

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For 80s...is it the same operational theory as the 40s?

Out of stock at the moment...:(

Depends on the 40. My 64 stock one was a normal pull cable that went out to the carb, 60's and 80's are the same pull twist lock to the pedal. I did put the new style in WR. Pretty simple to simply make a tab for the peddle and I grabbed the bracket out of a 60 at the salvage yard.
 

Jacket

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There's an attempt at a group buy on OEM 80 throttles on Mud. But the queue is currently at 100+ and the guy has about 10....

Japan4x4 says he can get them for around $60 I think.

This is probably all irrelevant since I'm sure you're after 40 parts....
 

Uncle Ben

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There's an attempt at a group buy on OEM 80 throttles on Mud. But the queue is currently at 100+ and the guy has about 10....

Japan4x4 says he can get them for around $60 I think.

This is probably all irrelevant since I'm sure you're after 40 parts....

Just get one out of a salvage FJ-62. Probably cost you under $20!

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subzali

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I might have to go the FJ62 route, that looks pretty good...down the road though, getting the hand throttle installed isn't germane to getting this thing up and running.

I did some head scratching this morning about the suction and discharge connections on the compressor. They are some kind of flare fitting, right-hand thread (so not like a propane tank thread). I went to Ace and they had some, but then I looked on McMaster-Carr and it appears there are two different styles. There is a 45° flare fitting, also known as SAE, and there is a 37° flare fitting, which is for higher pressures. Since this is an automotive application, I'm assuming that I have the 45° (SAE) flare. So I'm not sure what kind Ace carries - they had short nuts like the SAE ones have, so I think Ace is carrying the SAE style.

The compressor has a 5/8" male SAE flare fitting on the suction side, and the discharge side has a 1/2" male SAE flare fitting. The only female fitting available with this system is a tube nut. So I would have to get hard tube, flare the ends, and make some adapters if I want to go to any other type of fitting, like to barbs or NPT.

After the meeting last Wednesday night, Red Fox came over to check out my progress. He suggested that rather than get a dedicated filter element like Marco has, I should tie into the clean side of my air cleaner for the suction side of the compressor. I thought that was a swell idea, and I have a port plugged off on my air cleaner that normally would have provided clean air to my air pump. The hose to fit over that port needs to be (EDIT) 1" ID (clamped connection). So for the suction side, I need to go from (EDIT) 1" ID hose to 5/8" SAE male. The only way I know of that I can make this happen is to get a 5/8" SAE-5/8" SAE swivel (two female nuts with a piece of tube in between, pre-fabbed), then a male SAE-male NPT adapter, then a female NPT-barb adapter. And then I might not be able to get the hose size I want right from those fittings, so I might have to work up to the proper hose size.

On the discharge side, I guess I can get a hose made at NAPA or somewhere that is a female SAE on both ends, then get a male SAE-male NPT adapter that I can bush down to the size I will need for my manifold.

Pretty complex, and not the purdiest solution I would like to see. Might have to do some more head-scratching. :confuse2:

While I was at Ace, I checked out their compressed air accessories and found an air drier, relief valve rated at 120 psi and 112 scfm (too low psi I think), and some other things. Everything is in NPT so that's where I'm going to need to get from these SAE fittings.

Also picked up some air compressor oil - I guess this will work to keep my compressor oiled? :confused:
 

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rover67

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Yeah, Plumbing the intake into the air cleaner is the best way to do it in my opinion.

As far as the discharge side goes, depending on how hard you work the compressor (or plan to) think about getting something that will handle some heat.

looking great BTW :)
 

Uncle Ben

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Yeah, Plumbing the intake into the air cleaner is the best way to do it in my opinion.

As far as the discharge side goes, depending on how hard you work the compressor (or plan to) think about getting something that will handle some heat.

looking great BTW :)

I agree on an EFI setup but I have issues with doing it on a carb set up do to filling your storage tank with compressed gas fumes.
 

rover67

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I agree on an EFI setup but I have issues with doing it on a carb set up do to filling your storage tank with compressed gas fumes.

very true... never thought about that one. although with the motor running to power the pump it seems like the chances of getting gas sucked into the compressor are pretty low.



man, may want to think about it...
 

subzali

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compressed fuel vapor in the tires!? :eek:
 
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Uncle Ben

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very true... never thought about that one. although with the motor running to power the pump it seems like the chances of getting gas sucked into the compressor are pretty low.



man, may want to think about it...

Excellent counter point! As long as it's a negative pressure (engine drawing air) there should be no fumes in air cleaner except for possible crankcase vapor.
 

60wag

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I chose to not pull air from the air cleaner for my onboard air. Here's why: the pressure in the air cleaner is lower than atmosphere, not much lower but it is lower because the engine is pulling air through it. Any drop in the pressure at the intake of the compressor will reduce its efficiency. Think of it as the opposite of a turbo charger. One of the nice benefits of an engine driven compressor is the relatively high air flow. Why reduce the flow by drawing air from a low pressure zone?
 
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Matt, If you're using 3/4" OD hose for the intake it should be about 1/2" ID. It should just press on over the compressor intake fitting without another interface. Just clamp it off and you're good to go.
 

subzali

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I chose to not pull air from the air cleaner for my onboard air. Here's why: the pressure in the air cleaner is lower than atmosphere, not much lower but it is lower because the engine is pulling air through it. Any drop in the pressure at the intake of the compressor will reduce its efficiency. Think of it as the opposite of a turbo charger. One of the nice benefits of an engine driven compressor is the relatively high air flow. Why reduce the flow by drawing air from a low pressure zone?

Hm. Also a good point. I'm glad I posted up! I'll see what they have at Ace, it might be easier to go the dedicated filter route.

Matt, If you're using 3/4" OD hose for the intake it should be about 1/2" ID. It should just press on over the compressor intake fitting without another interface. Just clamp it off and you're good to go.

The suction of the compressor, the 5/8" SAE, has 7/8"-14 threads. I did some more measuring and the hose port on my air cleaner is 1". I'm thinking of taking Bruce's advice, if for no other reason than that 1" barbs are hard to come by, even on McMaster.

As an aside, the discharge of the compressor, the 1/2" SAE, has 3/4"-16 threads.
 
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subzali

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Did some playing around in AutoCAD this morning. Kilby sells an inlet filter that has a 1/2" MNPT connection. I think this would be a pretty clean combo: 5/8" SAE swivel fitting, then a 5/8" male SAE-1/2" FNPT 90 degree elbow. Easy.
 

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subzali

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1/4" or 3/8"?

So I was looking at hoses and chucks tonight at the hardware store. Should I go with 1/4" or 3/8"? The discharge is 1/2", most filters/coalescers that I've seen are 3/8" NPT, most manifolds are 3/8" NPT, but it seems that 1/4" hoses and chucks are more common? They are certainly cheaper. But to start with 1/2" and get all the way down to 1/4" seems like, well, kinda wasting the ability of the compressor. Maybe my compressor is overkill? :lmao:

Not to say I can't do it - it just uses more fittings than I was hoping for.
 
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60wag

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The schrader valve and the air chuck will present a larger flow restriction than 30 ft of 1/4 id hose. The lightweight hose coils and stores much more easily than the larger diameter stuff. I'd go with the lighter stuff.
 

subzali

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speaking of coils - should I get the pre-coiled hose? It seems like if it gets stretched out then it's trying to twist around and you have to hold it in place, whereas a "normal" hose wouldn't do that. 25 ft enough?
 

Uncle Ben

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speaking of coils - should I get the pre-coiled hose? It seems like if it gets stretched out then it's trying to twist around and you have to hold it in place, whereas a "normal" hose wouldn't do that. 25 ft enough?

You'll hate this answer! :rolleyes: The cheap arse "yellow" coils suck! They kink and when cold they break. The high grade coils you get from truck supply shops are good. (Ige is a good source!) The hoses from Powertank and Ultimate are really good but pricey! If you use regular air hose avoid the plastic crap as It is a pain in the winter and it wears out pretty quickly.
 
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