• Hey Guest:
    Wed. April 1st is the next Rising Sun meeting, and you won't want to miss it.
    We're doing our annual offroad recovery equipment demonstration and trail skills training aka "Jack It Night" at Envision Fabrication. Meeting starts at 6:30 p.m. (early). All are invited to attend! Click for more information and location.

Zach get's his first Landcrusier - FJ55

Old40Dog

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Far, Far South Side, Cotopaxi, Calirado
So here's the long awaited pic....in all of its rusty glory. Drum roll please!!!:rant:
 

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MountainGoat

Club Treasurer
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Cruise Moab Committee
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Jul 4, 2008
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Evergreen, CO
:cool: Nice ride! :thumb:
 

Old40Dog

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Mar 2, 2009
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Far, Far South Side, Cotopaxi, Calirado
Yep! Working Meyers 6.5' plow included.

The PO used it for plowing his drive in Evergreen for many years. The clutch master cylinder was bad and he thought there was a problem with the transmission. So he wanted to get it out of the drive before winter and now its Zach's. New clutch master cylinder and its fine. :lmao:
 

farnhamstj

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
2,609
Location
vail co
Sweet, Zach can start a plow & shoveling business. Drivers License? We don't need no stinking license.
 

timmbuck2

Land Use Coordinator
Staff member
Cruise Moab Committee
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Oct 5, 2005
Messages
5,760
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Denver
nice!! always happy to see a piggie on the road
 

Old40Dog

Rising Sun Member
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Mar 2, 2009
Messages
1,930
Location
Far, Far South Side, Cotopaxi, Calirado
Now for the first real tech question...

2F engine, one jet in the carb with fuel going through it when you pump the accelerator the other is completely dry. Anything short of a complete carb rebuild to correct this?
 

riderjgs

Lifted
Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Messages
155
Location
Grand Junction
Rusty doors?

Looks like at least some body rust. If you have rusty doors, I have a complete set of 4 late model doors (rounded upper front corners, no vent windows on the fronts) showing no rust and what appears to be original paint. Glass and mechanisms intact but no interior panels or hardware. I'm in Grand Junction...delivery could be arranged.
Good luck...you'll find the 55 fun and educational.
 
Joined
Nov 11, 2009
Messages
143
Location
Lakewood
Hey everyone i woulod like to thank you guys for all of the coments you've left about the 55. I can't wait to bring it to a meeting soon. I know I am going to have a lot of fun with it and I am looking forward to it. :D
 

Old40Dog

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2009
Messages
1,930
Location
Far, Far South Side, Cotopaxi, Calirado
Got the carb problem fixed. :)

Vacuum line on what looks like an advance that runs down the side and connects under the carb was removed from the underside of the carb and plugged with a screw. :hill: Tube where it's supposed to connect on the underside of the carb was open.:hill::hill:

We'll install new spark plugs this weekend and then take 'er in for emissions next week! :thumb:
 

subzali

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
10,764
Location
Denver CO
you can check here to see if your engine is original to the truck (or at least have a certain level of certainty that it is):
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/82256-2f-serial-number-info.html

Then you can go here and make sure the carb is the right year for your engine/linkage/emissions equipment:
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat042.tam?xax=17170&page.ctx=cat042.tam

I and others would recommend getting a Toyota FSM, including the emissions manual, or else a Haynes is an ok substitute I have found. Then you can trace your emissions and vacuum controls and make sure all that stuff is working before you take it in.

Good luck, great project! Like UB said it would be nice to have a swimming pool of electrolyte to do a full body rust removal from these bad boys!
 

60wag

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2005
Messages
2,669
Now for the first real tech question...

2F engine, one jet in the carb with fuel going through it when you pump the accelerator the other is completely dry. Anything short of a complete carb rebuild to correct this?


The accel pump only puts gas down the primary barrel. The secondary is opened by a vacuum diaphram that has likely failed.
 

Old40Dog

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2009
Messages
1,930
Location
Far, Far South Side, Cotopaxi, Calirado
you can check here to see if your engine is original to the truck (or at least have a certain level of certainty that it is):
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/82256-2f-serial-number-info.html

Then you can go here and make sure the carb is the right year for your engine/linkage/emissions equipment:
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat042.tam?xax=17170&page.ctx=cat042.tam

I and others would recommend getting a Toyota FSM, including the emissions manual, or else a Haynes is an ok substitute I have found. Then you can trace your emissions and vacuum controls and make sure all that stuff is working before you take it in.

Good luck, great project! Like UB said it would be nice to have a swimming pool of electrolyte to do a full body rust removal from these bad boys!


01/1978 FJ55 Serial #84495, Engine #238208 which checks out on the SOR 2F Engine weblisting for production date/engine match. So, I'm even more confident that this is original truck/engine combo. Thanks for the info on checking this out.

I have a Toyota chassis manual, but never picked up the engine manual as both of my 40's have chevy transplants. Guess it's time to try and find one.

Rust removal begins Thursday while the turkey is roasting :thumb:
 

jacdaw

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Jan 29, 2009
Messages
1,229
Location
Lafayette
I've bveen watching this thread with great interest. After much flip flopping, and even test driving a couple 60s, I've decided that of all the FJs, only a Pig actually fits my personality. As soon as my MC sells, a Pig will be mine.:D
 
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