Ptarmigan mods - 1995 FZJ80

[Mendocino]

The table is super cool!

 

[Uncle Ben]

It is the African Outback table. I don't think it is very heavy but you have to be tall enough to reach the rack. It appears the stainless is a very high grade as well.

Mmmmmmm :greenwithenvy:

 

[treerootCO]

Changed out the fuel tank sock today, it didn't need it. Stared at the fuel filter design for about an hour and threw the new filter back on the shelf for another day.

 

[treerootCO]

New buttons!

 

[Rezarf]

Too Cool Treeroot!

All other 80's must bow to the Ptarmigan!

Keep it up, FWIW, I ordered all LEDs for my 40's interior the other day in light of your awesome build... and the fact that I couldn't see my gauge at night either.

Drew

 

[nakman]

Those switches came out great, Mike...

 

[Hulk]

New buttons!

First one turns on the winch? Second one controls it?

 

[Rezarf]

First one turns on the winch? Second one controls it?

Yeah, that is what it looks like. In and Out controls after turning it on... pretty slick.

 

[gahi]

Looks good, what did you use to make the switch faces?

 

[treerootCO]

I used a defroster button out of a 4runner for the wince enable. I ran the ground through it so that the winch in and winch out controls are only active when the enable button is active. It also has a light so I know it is on. The 4 runner switches are the right style but you will need to source some clear plastic because the lables are a sandwich of things and can't be sanded clear.

The stock button labels are clear plastic that is silk screened from the back. All of them have a green overlay and some of them also have a black mask. That was sanded off with 1200 grit sandpaper and followed up with plastic polish. The labels are from http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/274776-switch-relables-printable-single-sheet.html - NLXTACY just cleaned up a bit. That gets printed on some card stock and superglue makes the paper translucent. I used a green silk screen paint to keep the OE color even though I use blue LEDs behind it. Without the green the color is more blue. I like the teal color and it keeps everything matching. The last step was to use vinyl to keep light showing through the paper so that was applied in reverse to the buttons. Here are the images used. The bigger one is the mask that is behind it.

 

[treerootCO]

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-t...-winch-solenoid-mount-option.html#post5476634

Decided to move the winch solenoid to a new spot on the Short Bus bumper to make room for another Rigid Industries LED light. The spot behind the winch is exactly the right size for the solenoids with zero room to spare. The JDM aux fan is just above it but does not touch, the bumper braces are welded in just the right spots to make it work, and the frame is just far enough back for it all to fit. The bumper was drilled and tapped for bolts.

 

[Rezarf]

I used a defroster button out of a 4runner for the wince enable. I ran the ground through it so that the winch in and winch out controls are only active when the enable button is active. It also has a light so I know it is on. The 4 runner switches are the right style but you will need to source some clear plastic because the lables are a sandwich of things and can't be sanded clear.

The stock button labels are clear plastic that is silk screened from the back. All of them have a green overlay and some of them also have a black mask. That was sanded off with 1200 grit sandpaper and followed up with plastic polish. The labels are from http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/274776-switch-relables-printable-single-sheet.html - NLXTACY just cleaned up a bit. That gets printed on some card stock and superglue makes the paper translucent. I used a green silk screen paint to keep the OE color even though I use blue LEDs behind it. Without the green the color is more blue. I like the teal color and it keeps everything matching. The last step was to use vinyl to keep light showing through the paper so that was applied in reverse to the buttons. Here are the images used. The bigger one is the mask that is behind it.

Mike, you are the king of the details.

 

[wesintl]

lets see the light bar on !

 

[treerootCO]

Soon, very soon.

The interior winch controls are in but there is a ghost in the machine. It likes to spool out every now and then. I think the Warn 9.5XP is different that earlier designs as the colors have changed. Had to make black white, white red, and red black for it to work. The disable switch keeps it in check until I can figure out where the stray voltage is coming from.

Here is the WARN 9.5XP wiring diagram, post #3

 

[sleeoffroad]

Mike, I have the color changes documented at the shop. Call me on Monday.

 

[wesintl]

you need to pop that engine out and install this...

http://www.titanmotorsports.com/to1fzenpr1hp.html

 

[Uncle Ben]

you need to pop that engine out and install this...

http://www.titanmotorsports.com/to1fzenpr1hp.html

I agree! Then he can have all the street racer bling bling he wants and no one will give him any lip!

 

[corsair23]

you need to pop that engine out and install this...

http://www.titanmotorsports.com/to1fzenpr1hp.html

That's a STEAL at only $45 per HP

 

[rover67]

The rig is looking sweet man....

Super sweet...

 

[treerootCO]

So that is what 200,000 spark plugs look like

They must have have 2mm gap after the wear.

Changed out the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, PCV, belts, etc.

I thought that side sounded funny...