DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
You definitely can afford that Atlas t-case.
The machine shop I used didn't line up one of the cam bearing holes. Glad I checked. Would have killed the motor. The costs really add up fast.Its back! It'll be a couple of weeks before I have time to dedicate to it, but at least now I have everything local and can determine what else I need to order. Have bearings and gaskets, and sensors and bolts are on the way.
View attachment 102416
That’s what I call lubed up and ready for a party!Thanks @White Stripe and @rover67. I checked the cam bearings for proper alignment. I thoroughly washed the block with soap and water and used brushes for the oil passages. The machinist blocked off one of the passages already so I blew water through it and said a prayer. Everything else looked pretty clean. Another fun realization was when an oil control ring slipped out of the compressor and I bent it. So now I get to wait for a new set to show up.
There is no oil pressure gauge on the dash, but I will probably rig up some sort of small display panel that shows that data.
Used new ARP rod bolts and new stock cap bolts. And haphazardly liberal amounts of assembly lube.
View attachment 102679View attachment 102680
Did the machine shop know your using arp hardware? Afaik the rods need to be machined differently if your using arp bolts.Thanks @White Stripe and @rover67. I checked the cam bearings for proper alignment. I thoroughly washed the block with soap and water and used brushes for the oil passages. The machinist blocked off one of the passages already so I blew water through it and said a prayer. Everything else looked pretty clean. Another fun realization was when an oil control ring slipped out of the compressor and I bent it. So now I get to wait for a new set to show up.
There is no oil pressure gauge on the dash, but I will probably rig up some sort of small display panel that shows that data.
Used new ARP rod bolts and new stock cap bolts. And haphazardly liberal amounts of assembly lube.
View attachment 102679View attachment 102680
Afaik the extra torque it takes to torque the arp bolts supposedly deforms the rods slightly. That's what my machinist told me.(colorado custom cylinder heads)So they install the supplied arp bolts in the rods when they machine them which makes the rod end true. That's what I've been told. I'm not a machinist. So it's possible my machinist is wrong. I used gen 4 rods and gen 4 bolts. Which I dont think ive ever seen break on the internet, so i didnt bother getting arp bolts. As far as cleaning the block, I had partially assembled mine when I realized each orifice in the block had metal shavings. So I took it back apart, and blew compressed air in every hole and orifice in the block. Found a lot of metal doing that. Then did a basic clean of the block again. Then assembled the short block. I imagine if u got arp rod bolts, and the valvetrain is a good setup, you could probably produce some crazy rpm's if you wanted.(like 8000 or more)A lot of camshafts don't make power that high though.Ooof that's another gut punch but that's why I post here. They did not know, but I'll give them a ring tomorrow and see what they say. On the internet it seems like most do it successfully without additional machine work on cracked rods. I can't find an example of a failure. But that still doesn't make me feel like it's a great decision.
Man, I hate coming across stuff like this. You won't ever really be able to forget it even though you absolutely know it's not a problem.Plastigauge checks out, no change that I can tell. Assembly rotates freely. Assuming I have all the parts, I'm optimistic I can get it mostly assembled this weekend.