Knuckle Rebuild

[wesintl]

you don't need a press... pound them in and suck them on with the nut. check after a short drive

File the fill plug til you can get a socket on it or use a screwdriver and then replace it.

 

[Chris]

you don't need a press... pound them in and suck them on with the nut. check after a short drive

That was my intent but after dealing with the boogering I thought I might want to quit frustrating myself.

I guess I might feel different tomorrow.

File the fill plug til you can get a socket on it or use a screwdriver and then replace it.

Is this the screwdriver at an angle and hammer routine? The only indication it's ever been out is that it's boogered. Doesn't appear to have been out for a loooong time.

 

[subzali]

Whoops, maybe that should make it into the FAQ...make sure you can take out the fill plug BEFORE you drain the oil...that saved me with my t-case and transmission, as my fill plugs were barely operable, had to pound a six-point socket on and turn VERY gingerly. Can you get a vice grips on it? As Wes said, make sure the studs are seated well, and then they get sucked the rest of the way on when you torque the wheel on. What are studs made out of? Something softer than brass?

 

[Chris]

What are studs made out of? Something softer than brass?

More than puzzled myself, I've used brass drifts for this type of thing many times and never damaged anything before. Oh well, not much to do but replace them now. I'll pull them in and check and re-check and check again.

Save my energy for the diff plug

 

[Chris]

Whoops, maybe that should make it into the FAQ...make sure you can take out the fill plug BEFORE you drain the oil...that saved me with my t-case and transmission, as my fill plugs were barely operable, had to pound a six-point socket on and turn VERY gingerly. Can you get a vice grips on it? As Wes said, make sure the studs are seated well, and then they get sucked the rest of the way on when you torque the wheel on. What are studs made out of? Something softer than brass?

Massaged the boogered studs with a thread chaser and new nuts, worked just fine.

The fill plug is still in. Nothing worked, tried all the tricks but it was/is kind of brittle and resisted all attempts to budge.

Resorted to filling via a hand pump and the drain hole. Yes, it worked.

 

[nakman]

How did you fill the diff from the drain hole, did you turn the truck upside down?

Here's how I get the tough ones off: soak with PB blaster for several days. Use a good, 6-point 24mm socket, not a 12-point. and 1/2" drive. I've got one you can borrow if needed. File that bolt like Wes suggested until that socket will swallow the whole bolt head and rest on the diff cover. Put breaker bar on more or less parallel with the axle, aimed down a little, handle towards DS tire. Then use a small bottle jack (or similar) to push up on the handle from below. Use all your weight to press on the backside of the socket keeping it on the bolt, while you increase the upward (lefty looosy) pressure with the jack. the jack does the heavy work, you keep the socket in place.

Once you get it out upgrade to a new one, like a Corrola one with the 14mm hex driver or at a minumum, a new bolt & new crush washer.

 

[wesintl]

little bit of heat even from mapp gas goes a long way. I refuse to believe you can't get it off...

 

[Chris]

How did you fill the diff from the drain hole, did you turn the truck upside down?

Yep, just turned it over and filled it up.

Here's how I get the tough ones off: soak with PB blaster for several days. Use a good, 6-point 24mm socket, not a 12-point. and 1/2" drive. I've got one you can borrow if needed. File that bolt like Wes suggested until that socket will swallow the whole bolt head and rest on the diff cover. Put breaker bar on more or less parallel with the axle, aimed down a little, handle towards DS tire. Then use a small bottle jack (or similar) to push up on the handle from below. Use all your weight to press on the backside of the socket keeping it on the bolt, while you increase the upward (lefty looosy) pressure with the jack. the jack does the heavy work, you keep the socket in place.

Outside of the jack (wish I knew that earlier) that's what I did. The bolt seemed kind of brittle. It's toast now. A guy can only try so many times before there's not much left which is where I'm at now.

Once you get it out upgrade to a new one, like a Corrola one with the 14mm hex driver or at a minumum, a new bolt & new crush washer.

Being optimistic I have a new bolt and crush washer from Toyota. Being realistic it may be in my tool box for a long time.

 

[Chris]

little bit of heat even from mapp gas goes a long way.

My son-in-law tried that in my absence knowing how I wouldn't do it myself. He picked up where I left off.
Again, not much left to work with...

I refuse to believe you can't get it off...

Bet you can't either

 

[Rezarf]

Chris-

Did you get everything worked out man?

Drew

 

[wesintl]

My son-in-law tried that in my absence knowing how I wouldn't do it myself. He picked up where I left off.
Again, not much left to work with...


Bet you can't either

should have called. I had pleanty of time this weekend.

With my redneck enjiner ring it can be done. BFH, Heat, cut off wheel, drill bit, etc...

Look, uncle ben can do anything with a PBR

 

[Red_Chili]

On the fill plug- talk to Jerry at Burt Toyota and get an allen plug. You'll never strip it again. Use 'em all over the 4Runner, for drain and fill, tranny and diff. Wunnerful. I think they came stock on a Corolla or something.

On removing the old one: weld on a nut. Really. WFLLT.

 

[Hulk]

Pbr?

Look, uncle ben can do anything with a PBR

This?

 

[Chris]

Yeah, guess I never mentioned that

Alls' well though I still have the boogered diff plug. Emily passed the freeway test, no vibration (of significance) at 90 mph.

Haven't taken it off-road yet

Had to interupt my cruiser work last week to come to Maui for my son's wedding today

 

[Rzeppa]

I can't believe no on has recommended latex gloves. Your gonna need em.

Latex lasts about 5 minutes in solvent. Nitryl rocks man!

 

[Rzeppa]

The fill plug is still in. Nothing worked, tried all the tricks but it was/is kind of brittle and resisted all attempts to budge.

Torch

 

[Rzeppa]

Step by step knuckle rebuild and axle maintenance. Sorry I didn't notice this thread sooner, was out of town that week and am still catching up.

 

[Chris]

Latex lasts about 5 minutes in solvent. Nitryl rocks man!

Next time I'll try Nitryl, went through a lot of latex gloves but my hands still took a beating.

I'll be dealing with that damned plug upon my return from vacation.

That's another write-up I missed, nice to see so many good ones. They helped me a lot...

 

[leiniesred]

Fill Plug Tech: Cruel and Sadistic Method of Removal.

When I was 16, I couldn't get a socket type plug out of my VW transaxle. I too used the jack trick, but all I did was jack up the CAR! Had to be at least 1000 ft/lbs. 5 minutes later with a hammer and chisel, It was out.

I faced a similar challenge on a Volvo. screwed around with a fill plug for hours, then 5 minutes with a hammer and chisel.

As you noticed, the material is soft and brittle. With the chisel, it is OK if you pound off a piece or two of the plug. It is the FLANGE that is stuck, not the threads. By breaking off some of the problem, the impact vibrating things loose, and the rotational force you are applying, the thing will move a little, then 2 hits later will spin easily leaving you grinning all the way to the parts store for a new plug.

I too replaced all (I think) of my fill/drain plugs with allen head plugs.