Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
Ooo, looking for TrailTech on YouTube and stumbled across this. This works...
Headlight wiring
- Thread starter nakman
- Start date
So Bruce, IOW you're saying skip the second relay, and just wire the juice through the switch and don't worry about it for a 35w bulb?
60wag
Rising Sun Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2005
- Messages
- 2,476
I think this is the one in the Youtube video:
http://www.bajadesigns.com/Products...CE__and__RACE_LIGHTING/DUAL_8_INCH_RACELIGHTS
http://www.bajadesigns.com/Products...CE__and__RACE_LIGHTING/DUAL_8_INCH_RACELIGHTS
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DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Overkill never fails
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Did your car melt down when it did? I'll bet it was the coil that failed and not the load contacts. It's a fail safe.
60wag
Rising Sun Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2005
- Messages
- 2,476
No, actually the contacts failed. One side works, the other doesn't. It is however easier to replace than the switch.
On the motorcycle, the load is low and the switch can handle it. Why complicate it by adding the additional complexity of the relay?
On the motorcycle, the load is low and the switch can handle it. Why complicate it by adding the additional complexity of the relay?
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
IIRC you mentioned your lights run on AC, Nak's run on DC. The ratings are not the same. A 24V/5A AC contact might be 24V/1A with DC. Look, it's no skin off my nose, just offering my $0.02. I am not wrong and neither are you, we just have different experiences forming our opinions.
Alright I'm stumped. I have poked around that harness all over the place and can't find a switched 12v anywhere. All the ones that are 12v after the handlebar switch is on, are 12v even before the switch is on.. this isn't making sense to me, maybe it's too late... 
I did get my new headlight wired up, the horn relocated to make room for it, the relay's working... if I stick the relay wire to the battery I hear it click, then everything works just as it should. But I can't find a switched power feed anywhere on this new harness, meaning I can't get it to come on with the new switch. ugh..
I did get my new headlight wired up, the horn relocated to make room for it, the relay's working... if I stick the relay wire to the battery I hear it click, then everything works just as it should. But I can't find a switched power feed anywhere on this new harness, meaning I can't get it to come on with the new switch. ugh..
rover67
Rising Sun Member
I think mine had a switched 12v, i'll check tonight. our wiring should be similar..
I'd be curious if you have one.. I am going to try one more time to poke into something on the tail light circuit, but if I can't get it will punt and just find something that's switched on when the motor's running, just to get on with life.
I'm still trying to figure out in my head how this wiring works. It's like everything is on all the time, with one opening in the circuit and that's at the switch- so flipping the switch "on" just closes that? I can measure 12v going to the tail light, 12v at the horn itself, 12v in the blinker wire... all with the switch set to "off." what do I know, maybe that's a better way to wire things.
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
??
Does KTM use sinking switching? (ground on close)
Does KTM use sinking switching? (ground on close)
Could be. I found even more wires in the stock harness that are +12v with the bike off. Did find one that would flip on when the bike is running, it was running to the headlight. I then measured there what I had seen in the old light, which is about 6v output while the bike is idling, and even less when running. So I tried to run that as my relay feed hoping that's enough juice to trip it, but alas no, it only works about part of the time at idle, then not all all while riding, then just as you turn the bike off the lights come on.
My new theory is something's not happy with that new stator & regulator upgrade... but dang the bike sure runs well, and the battery seems to be getting charged, and there's no return on electrical parts at Sun, so IOW point of no return here. I think my next step is unhook the little running light bulb altogether, then I can bypass the relay and just use the switch for the lights, hot from the battery, and not have that little light run me down. At least then I can ride the bike and have lights, still not ideal though obviously but will get me by until someone smarter than me wants to do additional electrical probing.
edit: I'm also annoyed at how I had to extend my bump stop on the left, to keep from smashing the horn. Don't notice while riding, but pushing it around the garage, etc. I do.. so that horn is going somewhere else too. ugh.
My new theory is something's not happy with that new stator & regulator upgrade... but dang the bike sure runs well, and the battery seems to be getting charged, and there's no return on electrical parts at Sun, so IOW point of no return here. I think my next step is unhook the little running light bulb altogether, then I can bypass the relay and just use the switch for the lights, hot from the battery, and not have that little light run me down. At least then I can ride the bike and have lights, still not ideal though obviously but will get me by until someone smarter than me wants to do additional electrical probing.
edit: I'm also annoyed at how I had to extend my bump stop on the left, to keep from smashing the horn. Don't notice while riding, but pushing it around the garage, etc. I do.. so that horn is going somewhere else too. ugh.
farnhamstj
Hard Core 4+
You will notice the bump stop as soon as you try to ride single track. relocate the horn.
FWIW. My lights only work when bike is running.
FWIW. My lights only work when bike is running.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
welp, looks like I was mistaken...
my lights works either with the motor on or off
my lights works either with the motor on or off
I'm done. I bypassed the relay and took the bulb out of the running light, everything works now. It isn't perfect but I'm over it, need to work on other things... the only other thing that bugs me is how ugly all those wires are crammed in there behind the headlight, would like to stare at a couple other of you's wiring to see how you've got all that bundled. Good project for Utah... and we can poke further into the wiring in Utah too for that matter.
Red_Chili
Hard Core 4+
Stator upgrade, eh? A few stator upgrades trade low RPM voltage for higher RPM current output. Some are wound differently for both current and voltage at lower output. You might be seeing something like that.
farnhamstj
Hard Core 4+
Tim, is yours street legal yet? Or is the headlight part of the making it legal process?
Yes street legal, I have current plates & a title in my name.
I bought a bike with a fairly poor headlight and no tail light or brake light that didn't run well.
That turned into a bike that runs great (carb cleaning, jet kit, new stator & regulator) with resulting no headlight.
I also now have as new turn signals and horn and a working tail light and brake light. I have essentially installed a full dual sport kit, compared to what I purchased which was just a headlight. Only piece left there is a switch on the front brake caliper, which is on the bench next to some new DOT4 fluid- the wire is already running down the fork.
So as of last night I have a bike that runs great, full tail/brake lights, turn signals, electric horn, and a great running new headlight- the latter wired direct to the battery. So I've got one switch next to my right thumb that turns on the tail lights/horn/turn signals, and a light switch for my left thumb that runs independently of the first that will flip on lo or hi beam on the headlight. Either one can run w/o the bike running, and both need to be turned off manually lest I will find myself without e-start capability. I have come up empty on my attempt to find any switched 12v wire into which to incorporate a relay.
I also have a somewhat irritated
who is tired of the 8:00-midnight shifts in the garage every night this week... however she's got a movie night tonight with her friends, so I'm gonna get that front switch hooked up and both brakes bled with new fluid.
I bought a bike with a fairly poor headlight and no tail light or brake light that didn't run well.
That turned into a bike that runs great (carb cleaning, jet kit, new stator & regulator) with resulting no headlight.
I also now have as new turn signals and horn and a working tail light and brake light. I have essentially installed a full dual sport kit, compared to what I purchased which was just a headlight. Only piece left there is a switch on the front brake caliper, which is on the bench next to some new DOT4 fluid- the wire is already running down the fork.
So as of last night I have a bike that runs great, full tail/brake lights, turn signals, electric horn, and a great running new headlight- the latter wired direct to the battery. So I've got one switch next to my right thumb that turns on the tail lights/horn/turn signals, and a light switch for my left thumb that runs independently of the first that will flip on lo or hi beam on the headlight. Either one can run w/o the bike running, and both need to be turned off manually lest I will find myself without e-start capability. I have come up empty on my attempt to find any switched 12v wire into which to incorporate a relay.
I also have a somewhat irritated
who is tired of the 8:00-midnight shifts in the garage every night this week... however she's got a movie night tonight with her friends, so I'm gonna get that front switch hooked up and both brakes bled with new fluid.