Front axle rebuild time: FZJ80

[Hulk]

Time to do my front axle rebuild. I just ordered the kit from Cruiser Dan, including the wheel bearings. Just in time for Labor Day weekend.

Ken, can I borrow your 54mm hubnut socket, snapring pliers, and brass drift? I have the rest of the tools on your list. I may go ahead and buy the '96 FSM, depending on the cost. I'd like to have a brass drift too, if I knew where to buy one -- can I get it at Sears?

Has anyone done the 100-series brakes? Just curious how much of an improvement this was.

This may be an amazingly stupid question, but is MolyGrease hard to find?

 

[Romer]

Matt,
You can borrow my stuff. I bought the drift at Harbor freight. I have done the 100 series brakes. It's suppose to wear better and longer, not sure you can feel any difference.

The FSM is a must have in my opinion, but you could come copy that section in the short term.

I would recommend you call Dan back and order front Rotors as well. You will have it all torn down and only have to do a few extra bolts to get at the rotors, unless they are new. Rear rotors are easy, front rotors require going all the way to the inner bearing/spindle. Only thing not done on the rotor job is the knuckle/birf.

Lock the diff before you pull the axle out, that will make it easier to get back in.

Moly is easy to find in the tubes at any part store.

 

[treerootCO]

My only tech tip....

Don't try and get the last bit of grease out of the tube with your finger. That little metal lid is a sharp sob

 

[nakman]

Matt, read Romer's FAQ on mud, it's very well done and comprehensive. You don't need to lock the locker though, that's just on the back. And I use a brass hammer instead of the drift for the cone washers. Gotta get a drift though if you plan on pounding races, unless you can use someone's press? I'll be around all weekend, give me a call if you get stuck on something. Can borrow the FSM if you want, but again all the important stuff is scanned and uploaded on mud.

I got my molygrease at AutoZone.

 

[Hulk]

Rotors, huh? How much will those cost me? Will it be lots less than these:
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/brakes.htm#dbarotors
for $109 each? I think that what Uncle Ben is running. Uncle Ben, did these increase your stopping power? Anything to increase stopping power is a good thing: my 80 is getting heavier by the minute.

Romer, I'm guessing that you put the 100 series pads on when you replaced the rotors? I've heard that these should be done at the same time.

Snap Ring pliers - do I need to buy these?

 

[nakman]

There are as many opinions about slotted/drilled as there are holes in the rotors, maybe more. Here's mine: I have them, they stop great, don't get them. The second weekend of May each year is when I remove all 4 tires, then drill out red dirt from all those little holes.

Instead of snap-ring pliers I use a small needlenose, where I ground down flats on the outside of the tips. 60wag taught me that, works really well. Just stick it in, then separate.

 

[Romer]

I have snap ring pliers and I would buy Toyota Rotors. They will be less than those, don't recall how much though.

I disagree with Tim and advise locking the locker. You probably don't need it, but it doesn't hurt anything and there are a few who have had a problem because they did not.

 

[Uncle Ben]

I have snap ring pliers and I would buy Toyota Rotors. They will be less than those, don't recall how much though.

I disagree with Tim and advise locking the locker. You probably don't need it, but it doesn't hurt anything and there are a few who have had a problem because they did not.

I concur with Nak....love my slotted/drilled rotors! Stops on a dime with 3 cents change! No pulsating peddle so far even the way I drive! I also have 100 series pads in the front. Locking the locker would have no benefit as either the splines are lined up or they are not and either case a slight rotation of the driveshaft will line it up! Oh and of course I suggest patronizing your local supporting Toy dealers!

 

[wesintl]

only $15... I love this tool. for 15 I wouldn't mess around making a set.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

 

[Hulk]

I concur with Nak....love my slotted/drilled rotors! Stops on a dime with 3 cents change! No pulsating peddle so far even the way I drive! I also have 100 series pads in the front.

So if you had to do it again, you'd stick with the Toyota rotors too?

 

[Uncle Ben]

So if you had to do it again, you'd stick with the Toyota rotors too?

My answer is no I wouldn't prefer stock over DBA's. 80's are heavy (news flash!) anyway you can shed some friction heat while stopping the fat ladies has to be a good thing in my book. I think the Auzzie DBA slotted/drilled rotors are about the same cost as OEM. You will hear as many sides as to which is better as you would if you questioned an L on the grill vrs Farmer Bob! Personal preferance, cost and availability are the only real factors!

 

[wesintl]

Matt, I forgot to say if you want to borrow my brass drifts or my lock ring pliers let me know and they are all yours.

 

[Romer]

Locking the locker would have no benefit as either the splines are lined up or they are not and either case a slight rotation of the driveshaft will line it up!

You are probably correct Kevin and Tim. I heard the rationale for the rear and someone told me (Mabrodis?) it's a good idea to do the front before I did mine, but I have no data to support the front. The problems I was thinking of had to do with the rear.

 

[nakman]

I'll elaborate a little on the DBA's.. I LOVE how well they stop. They are solid, no shakes, had them over 20K miles and they're still fine, plenty of pad left. But of course, I brake slower than I accelerate (YMMV, ..) Also rebuilt both calipers at the time of install, one was sticking which is why my stockers kept warping. He also adjusted the LSPV.. oh and put stainless lines on, and a new master. I'm well into the 4 digits on brake upgrades...

If I were to do it again (and I will) I'd go with slotted DBA's, but not drilled. http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/DBA 4000 SERIES BRAKE KIT FZJ80.htm In my head that's still most the benefits of lower heat, without the worry of getting dirt & crap in the holes. But I still run Kane Creek every year so it's not that big of a worry now, is it.

And you don't really have to do it all at once, y'know? The sloppy part is taking the spindles off.. brakes is just the flange, caliper, and 2 big nuts. but you knew that.. hth.

 

[Shark Bait]

Wish I was going to be there with you cause I need to do my front end service, too. I have a brass drift and a hub nut sucket you can use.

 

[Hulk]

Two days, seven cans of brake cleaner, and a million paper towels later, the front axle has been rebuilt! All new seals and bearings, including wheel bearings.

Many thanks to Hants, who helped me out and provided much-needed guidance during about 90% of the project. He also had two torque wrenches that we much nicer than mine.

Is there any reason to save old bearings? Is this a trail repair item?

Also, how do I dispose of various petroleum agents (kerosene and gasoline) used in cleaning parts? I have several gallons worth.

 

[Hants]

Glad I could help. It was great meeting you and your family!

How does she run now? Are the symtoms gone?

 

[Hulk]

It's much easier to handle on the road. I'm still getting a "clunk" -- U-joints are next on my list.

I'm still attempting to clean up the mess from this project. Grease, grime and grit everywhere.

 

[Hants]

When are you getting the clunk?

Any play in your drive shafts? Have you greased your UJoints/Driveshafts recently?

 

[nakman]

Did you replace the knuckle bearings? double-check the torque of the top & bottom knuckle bolts