MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Looks good Matt.
Is that Rustic Green? Want to spray some doors for me??
Is that Rustic Green? Want to spray some doors for me??
FJ40 rear sill rust repair
- Thread starter Jacket
- Start date
Matt, that looks pretty darn good IMO. In those pictures it's a little hard to see what you're talking about with imperfections. I would say that if your (especially first time) bodywork turns out with a good looking product from 10 or 20 feet then that's about all you can expect!
RicardoJM
Hard Core 4+
I think it looks great. The cosmetics are much better than before and more important the structural integrity of the truck and the rear end is now solid. I would put your project very solidly in the "Success" band of the spectrum. It has been cool to follow the progress from wondering about the options all the way through to completion. Good Job !!! 
Looks great, Matt.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
How about some finished pics in the sunlight? Or better yet, on some dirt. 
Sunlight? But then you'd be able to see the mistakes.....
Thanks all. It's definitely solid, and once the 40 gets dirty it'll be tough to notice the cosmetic stuff.
The color is close to rustic green, but the PO provided an old can from when it was painted in '94, and the label on the can was cross-referenced to a late 80's/early 90's GM color code.
The original color is Dune Beige (as far as I can tell).
Thanks all. It's definitely solid, and once the 40 gets dirty it'll be tough to notice the cosmetic stuff.
The color is close to rustic green, but the PO provided an old can from when it was painted in '94, and the label on the can was cross-referenced to a late 80's/early 90's GM color code.
The original color is Dune Beige (as far as I can tell).
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Well done!
FWIW, just as a complete aside, I noticed that Rustoleum sells their Professional line in a Hunter Green. It actually looks fairly close to your color and might be an option for accessories or something. I was over at Home Depot when I saw it.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95
I've been impressed with this stuff. I used it to paint a bunch of stuff last year (Marlin bumper, Bud's skid plates, etc.) and while the impact spots scraped off and rusted consistent with paint instead of powdercoat, the paint on the rest of the surface did not flake off or start rusting this winter. I just did a regular coat with reasonable care, just prep-acetone clean-prime coat-paint coat cycle.
FWIW, just as a complete aside, I noticed that Rustoleum sells their Professional line in a Hunter Green. It actually looks fairly close to your color and might be an option for accessories or something. I was over at Home Depot when I saw it.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95
I've been impressed with this stuff. I used it to paint a bunch of stuff last year (Marlin bumper, Bud's skid plates, etc.) and while the impact spots scraped off and rusted consistent with paint instead of powdercoat, the paint on the rest of the surface did not flake off or start rusting this winter. I just did a regular coat with reasonable care, just prep-acetone clean-prime coat-paint coat cycle.
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AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
LOOKS AWESOME MATT!!!
Great work man. VERY impressed. Lets get TT out on the trail now!
Great work man. VERY impressed. Lets get TT out on the trail now!
Ambulance Doors
Finally got to work on some rust issues with the ambulance doors. Once I cut into them, it became quickly obvious I wasn't the first person to try and slow down the rust. Some thin sheet metals caps were in place, plus quite a bit of fiberglass. The goal isn't to make them perfect again, but instead just deal with the non-functional sections and holes.
First was the bottom latch. The driver side door latch didn't work on the bottom door, primarily because parts had become detached. In trying to fix this, I found that the lower latch had been bondo'ed to the door, and the bolts were completely rusted. So I decided to clean it up.
Cut away rusted section after removing the latch.
Replacement piece with cuts and bends
Checking fit
Turns out I didn't cut away enough of the bad metal, so I couldn't get good welds on the inner side. It's strong enough, but will require some "post processing."
Some smoothing in place, and the holes for the door latch mechanism.
Finally got to work on some rust issues with the ambulance doors. Once I cut into them, it became quickly obvious I wasn't the first person to try and slow down the rust. Some thin sheet metals caps were in place, plus quite a bit of fiberglass. The goal isn't to make them perfect again, but instead just deal with the non-functional sections and holes.
First was the bottom latch. The driver side door latch didn't work on the bottom door, primarily because parts had become detached. In trying to fix this, I found that the lower latch had been bondo'ed to the door, and the bolts were completely rusted. So I decided to clean it up.
Cut away rusted section after removing the latch.
Replacement piece with cuts and bends
Checking fit
Turns out I didn't cut away enough of the bad metal, so I couldn't get good welds on the inner side. It's strong enough, but will require some "post processing."
Some smoothing in place, and the holes for the door latch mechanism.
more ambulance doors
The other problem area was a tennis ball-sized hole on the same door. Not sure what happened, but it was rusty and in rough shape.
Cut away the offending section.
New piece of 16g cold rolled cut and bent.
Welded in place. You can see the other bondo that was used to try and fix up past rust issues. Not exactly top quality workmanship...
Smoothing and sanding
After much sanding, smoothing and taping off, I got the cleaned up door primed and ready for painting. I should be able to get it finished up in time for hard top season.
The other problem area was a tennis ball-sized hole on the same door. Not sure what happened, but it was rusty and in rough shape.
Cut away the offending section.
New piece of 16g cold rolled cut and bent.
Welded in place. You can see the other bondo that was used to try and fix up past rust issues. Not exactly top quality workmanship...
Smoothing and sanding
After much sanding, smoothing and taping off, I got the cleaned up door primed and ready for painting. I should be able to get it finished up in time for hard top season.
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
I ran into a similar problem when I built a new rear sill for my 71:
You can see where I blew through the semi-rusted QPs. Because they were thinner than the 16 Ga patch metal I had to tweak the heat to where it was enough to melt the new metal, but not blow through the QPs too much. Hindsight being 20/20, I should have replaced large sections of my QPs while I was at it. It is now starting to rust through the QPs where I welded to it.
Rezarf
Hard Core 4+
Looking great matt- keep up the good work. Let me know if you need a heckler leaning over your shoulder saying things like... gssh! uhhhg! and or gasp!