Fix before Cruise Moab??

[ColoradoMntMan]

So I noticed some leaking on the floor, thought it was brake fluid but that turned out negative. Talked to the guys at Japanese Auto Service and they said it is probably the axle seal leaking. The concern is that untreated the bearing grease could work its way into the axle fluid. I opened up the differential and this is what the fluid looks like. It's a very slow leak.

Of course this needs to be fixed, but is this okay to leave through Cruise Moab?

NOTE* I have a full rebuild kit for both sides. My brother used to have an automotive shop but he sold it or I would wrench with him. I know a little but couldn't do this on my own. Japanese Auto couldn't quote me a price over the phone.

 

[Notyourmomslx450]

Fix before, DIY! It's not a hard job, but messy AF!

 

[Crash]

Drain your diff fluid. If it looks like a gross chocolate shake then, yes, definitely an axle rebuild is in order. If it looks like clean diff lube, go to a car wash and hose the parts shown in your pic and drive it for another week. If you see major seepage, rebuild the axle. If you don't then don't worry about it for a while longer. The pic looks like it hasn't been dealt with in a long time but not terribly so.

 

[RayRay27]

So I noticed some leaking on the floor, thought it was brake fluid but that turned out negative. Talked to the guys at Japanese Auto Service and they said it is probably the axle seal leaking. The concern is that untreated the bearing grease could work its way into the axle fluid. I opened up the differential and this is what the fluid looks like. It's a very slow leak.

Of course this needs to be fixed, but is this okay to leave through Cruise Moab?

NOTE* I have a full rebuild kit for both sides. My brother used to have an automotive shop but he sold it or I would wrench with him. I know a little but couldn't do this on my own. Japanese Auto couldn't quote me a price over the phone.View attachment 128314View attachment 128315View attachment 128316View attachment 128317

If you don't want to do it on your own, try Cruisers and Company

https://www.cruisersandcompany.com/ They are some friends of ours and are located in Erie.

 

[Rzeppa]

We used to have the annual "Wheel Bearing Packing Party" around a month before Cruise Moab to do front axle maintenance. It's not too hard, and doing both sides should take around a half day.

 

[Crash]

We used to have the annual "Wheel Bearing Packing Party" around a month before Cruise Moab to do front axle maintenance. It's not too hard, and doing both sides should take around a half day.

"Should" could be read as a big "If". For a budding mechanic, this could be a day or day and a half job packed with time consuming pitfalls. An experienced mechanic can do it in a four to six hours.

 

[timmbuck2]

I miss the wheel bearing packing party. It takes longer to clean up than to do the actual work.

 

[Johnny Utah]

Hey Erik, I did mine in the fall. First time for me, took me a day and a half. Not hard but very messy.
If you decide to tackle it let me know, I have all of the special tools required.

Edit: since you have the parts, do it before CM, otherwise it will weigh on you and you will be thinking about it instead of having fun.

 

[Cruisertrash]

Weighing in to say @ColoradoMntMan you can do this with basic tools and some jacks stands! My first time took me a day and half like those who posted above. Not difficult, just very messy. Get 6 rolls of paper towels, a couple buckets you can throw away, 4-6 cans of brake cleaner, and a couple of wire wheel attachments for a cordless drill - and a package of nitrile gloves. Keep all the parts in order on a workbench as you take them out and do one side at a time - both will provide a guide for how things go back together.

 

[Crash]

If your toolbox includes a seal puller, a brass punch or two, and a fish scale for bearing adjustment you are off to a good start. A big piece of cardboard for under the messy business end of the axle will keep the floor from becoming a slippery quagmire. Best of all, though, is having an experienced hand there to get you through the inevitable sticky points that otherwise will have you questioning why you started the project to begin with. Good luck but do drain the diff fluid first to check for contamination of bearing and diff lubricants. If the fluid is clean, you are good to go for a while longer.

 

[Rzeppa]

On the floor protection, I discovered a wonderful substitute for cardboard or newspaper. Whenever I cook a roast, I use those big disposable aluminum roasting pans. After the food is cooked, instead of throwing them out with the recycle, I just rinse them out and put them in my garage for my next brake job or axle service.

 

[Crash]

On the floor protection, I discovered a wonderful substitute for cardboard or newspaper. Whenever I cook a roast, I use those big disposable aluminum roasting pans. After the food is cooked, instead of throwing them out with the recycle, I just rinse them out and put them in my garage for my next brake job or axle service.

You must be much tidier than me when performing this service. Probably smells better than cardboard too. 🍺

 

[fyffer]

So I noticed some leaking on the floor, thought it was brake fluid but that turned out negative. Talked to the guys at Japanese Auto Service and they said it is probably the axle seal leaking. The concern is that untreated the bearing grease could work its way into the axle fluid. I opened up the differential and this is what the fluid looks like. It's a very slow leak.

Of course this needs to be fixed, but is this okay to leave through Cruise Moab?

NOTE* I have a full rebuild kit for both sides. My brother used to have an automotive shop but he sold it or I would wrench with him. I know a little but couldn't do this on my own. Japanese Auto couldn't quote me a price over the phone.View attachment 128314View attachment 128315View attachment 128316View attachment 128317

Well some very Good videos. I used them doing mine and a Fish Wt scale is handy for preload, did not do the centering tool. if I could do it anyone can back in -21.
Check out OTRAMM (videos) knuckle rebuild, on MUD. Excellent IMO

 

[Notyourmomslx450]

a seal puller, a brass punch

My seal puller is a pry bar and no brass punch needed.

 

[RayRay27]

There are a bunch of vids on the tube you can watch to help.


View: https://youtu.be/y08phFlezBs?feature=shared

 

[ColoradoMntMan]

If you don't want to do it on your own, try Cruisers and Company

https://www.cruisersandcompany.com/ They are some friends of ours and are located in Erie.

I talked with Johnny over at Cruisers and Company, great guy. I sent him the pictures and he said to change out the diff oil and I'll be fine for Cruise Moab. He is booked out till June. He's neck deep in getting rigs ready for Cruise Moab right now he said!


Work has me busy the weeks leading up to Cruise Moab, so that's why I was nervous if I do not have time. I'll watch those videos on MUD @fyffer. I've packed the bearings before on my own so I'm familiar with taking the hubs apart and getting in there. I'll probably borrow a few tool @Johnny Utah, thanks for offering. If I feel overwhelmed or run into a snag I'll have cruisers and company do it since I know they will do a great job as well.

Thanks for everyone's replies, fantastic info, love this club! Excited to wheel with everyone in a few weeks.

 

[Crash]

My seal puller is a pry bar and no brass punch needed.

What’s your secret for removing cone washers?

 

[fyffer]

A very small flathead screwdriver between the space on cones, was the easiest for me. Popped right out

 

[Cruisertrash]

A very small flathead screwdriver between the space on cones, was the easiest for me. Popped right out

Same, except I add a pair of regular pliers. Pry the slot in the cone washer apart with the screwdriver and balance that with inward pressure of the pliers, then use the pliers to pull them out. Takes about 2-3 seconds for each one.

If I get a stubborn one I use an air hammer with a rounded off rod. @Stuckinthe80s taught me that on my first knuckle rodeo.

 

[Rzeppa]

A very small flathead screwdriver between the space on cones, was the easiest for me. Popped right out

Before I learned the brass drift method, I used to use that (and with pliers like Jim said) and found it sometimes worked and other times was a total PITA if the cone washer/stud/locking hub were really mated. Now I use a brass hammer in my garage, but my trail tools include a brass drift and a regular ball peen.