Exhaust bolt removal - please dumb it down

[WVU fan]

2012 Gx460 - I have a cat back exhaust to replace the OEM but I can’t break the existing bolts loose. Tried soaking in sprayed PB blaster, cordless impact and a hammer to hit the bolts but no luck. Really secured in place and can’t wrap my head around how to get the bolts out. if I sawzall ‘em in half then what? I do have new bolts and springs to replace existing 4 bolts. Please explain the steps to me in an elementary school mentality. Additionally, Reading forum posts, I think I can cut the back part of the exhaust in pieces where it bends around the frame to get it out. My question is how to get old stuck bolts out and leave the OEM mounting points to install the new cat back

 

[Pz10420]

How long of a ratchet are you able to get on those bolts? You may just need a longer ratchet or breaker bar to get them to break free or it will just break the bolt in half which is not uncommon on exhaust bolts.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I bet penetrating oil and Armstrong will get them. I've seen way worse exhaust bolts break free. Don't be stingy with the penetrating oil, let it soak overnight, too.

What's confusing you about them? The idea of this connection is it can move. The bolts have springs so the joint can flex and rotate a little bit as the engine twists, it's like a ball and socket a little.

You want the oil on the threads at the top, that works like any bolt and nut you're familiar with. You'll hold the fixed end at the top with a spanner and turn the head at the spring end. If it breaks it's no big deal, it's basically just a bolt like any other.

FWIW on my Tacoma the bolt is part number 90080-10291, something like $7 or there about. If you break or have to cut them it's not the end of the world.



Hopefully the nut end doesn't break. That I think is part of the pipe flange. But in theory you can drill it out, Helicoil or rethread or you could just drill it through and use a loose nut. That's what I've had to do in the past. At that point you just use a plain old 10mm bolt and nut.

 

[Corbet]

Can you soak in PB Blaster for a couple days repeatedly applying or are you daily driving the truck? For something like this I try to start my marinade a week prior to the repair.

 

[Burt88]

Try heat. Get em nice and hot with a benzomatic and see if that works.

 

[jps8460]

Try heat. Get em nice and hot with a benzomatic and see if that works.

And then shock them with PB while they are crazy hot.

 

[Burt88]

And then shock them with PB while they are crazy hot.

The sizzle sound means it's working.

 

[Hulk]

Do you have an impact wrench? I seem to break bolts less often now that I have one. I wish I'd had one when I was a teenager.

 

[Rzeppa]

X2 on the penetrating oil and hot wrench.

 

[WVU fan]

Thanks for the tips. My impact is a cordless 20v Dewalt - nothing pneumatic and I am able to park it for 4 days per week. I think I was just gun shy of breaking bolts and being stuck with the broken stem. Drilling it out didn't even cross my mind. I'll give the extra soaking and heat a try. Thanks for chiming in!

 

[DaveInDenver]

I can tell you with some experience that the only bolts that are true PITA if they break are blind and/or get +/- 1 ft-lb tolerance.

As far as I can tell even all my f'ing around with arguably one of the most important ones, messing up the block surface, re-drilling just slightly off center, using a Heli-coil didn't kill a vintage Toyota.

So this one, meh, it's not critical and worst case drill the SOB out and use a plain bolt. It's 99.9999% as good.

Don't worry, it'll be fine. Heat until it'll it's red, spray it until you get a small fire, turn with a 18" breaker bar. You ain't gonna screw it up.

I will add that Kroil or, if you can find it, Aerokroil are magic penetrating oils.