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Driveshaft Rebuild
- Thread starter KC Masterpiece
- Start date
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
Question is do I pay a shop to do it or take a chance and do it myself this weekend?
For my F350, the shop installed a new Spicer carrier bearing for $85 - the part would have cost me $68 + figuring out how to press it out, etc. I thought it was a screaming deal.
Some driveshaft shops are so cheap and fast, it makes you wonder why you ever did it yourself. I use Driveline Services in Colo Springs (I think htey have a Denver location) and they use non-greaseable Spicer ujoints on everything, but I'm sure if you brought them OEM parts they would use them.
For my F350, the shop installed a new Spicer carrier bearing for $85 - the part would have cost me $68 + figuring out how to press it out, etc. I thought it was a screaming deal.
Some driveshaft shops are so cheap and fast, it makes you wonder why you ever did it yourself. I use Driveline Services in Colo Springs (I think htey have a Denver location) and they use non-greaseable Spicer ujoints on everything, but I'm sure if you brought them OEM parts they would use them.
I have a pretty new (<20,000 mile) OEM rear driveline on my 100 that an aptly named trail took some revenge on (I made a dumb driver error on Hells). I'd like to get this one re-tubed and keep the OEM joints before Cruise Moab.
Anybody have a solid recent experience with a driveline shop in the Boulder-Loveland area (my lunchtime drop zone radius)?
Anybody have a solid recent experience with a driveline shop in the Boulder-Loveland area (my lunchtime drop zone radius)?
he built both of mine for me.
Englewood Driveshaft used the OEM joints I handed him when I had my 80 Series rear shaft rebuilt. Said they were great quality. 
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
I brought in a 1991-era Japanese-brand-x u-joint spare I had in my FJ40 for 30 years for my FJ45 job, and they happily installed it. As long as you aren't asking them to provide a warranty on a customer-provided joint, I don't see why they should care.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Ron at driveline service of boulder put in OEM joints that I handed him.
Sounds like the general theme is that I have to bring them the Toyota joints...
What front range told me is that Toyota joints are a pain because they are "backwards" from Spicer joints and are harder to align everything to install them right. I was thinking, "yeah but isn't that your job?"
What front range told me is that Toyota joints are a pain because they are "backwards" from Spicer joints and are harder to align everything to install them right. I was thinking, "yeah but isn't that your job?"
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
WTH are they talking about, the snap rings? Wouldn't all of this be determined by the yoke design?Sounds like the general theme is that I have to bring them the Toyota joints...
What front range told me is that Toyota joints are a pain because they are "backwards" from Spicer joints and are harder to align everything to install them right. I was thinking, "yeah but isn't that your job?"
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Ron said something similar though I can’t quote him. Something about them taking more work and maybe using different thickness snap rings I’m not sure. Anyhow he said they took more work to get them right but we’re definitely better.Sounds like the general theme is that I have to bring them the Toyota joints...
What front range told me is that Toyota joints are a pain because they are "backwards" from Spicer joints and are harder to align everything to install them right. I was thinking, "yeah but isn't that your job?"
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I don't remember on the old truck but my truck has a Spicer-made driveshaft that uses the snap ring thickness to shim the bearings. It does indeed take some effort on the part of the mechanic. Is this unique to Toyota, then? The replacement 1330-series u-joints weren't brand specific in the Spicer catalog.
Maybe it's that the snap rings for most Spicer yokes is on the top of bearing cap and IIRC Toyota put C-clips at the bottom. But if you get Spicer u-joints for a mini truck that's where they'd be, too.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
I wish I remembered the conversation but I seem to think that it was a joint specific thing. As in the OEM joints Cruiser outfitters sold me (per Kurt same as Toyota just not in the Toyota box. Matsuba?) that I handed to Ron got the sigh.
FWIW he likes the joints, says they are nice. And mentioned “yep these are Toyota joints” and “damn that’s cheap” and “they are better”
maybe somebody who knows this can chime in I’m actually interested in the difference now. I’ve always brushed it off as a “Ron thing” and stuck with OEM joints since people say they are stout.
FWIW he likes the joints, says they are nice. And mentioned “yep these are Toyota joints” and “damn that’s cheap” and “they are better”
maybe somebody who knows this can chime in I’m actually interested in the difference now. I’ve always brushed it off as a “Ron thing” and stuck with OEM joints since people say they are stout.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Bill @ Englewood said the same thing but I never thought to ask. Since Tacomas have Spicer as OEM I've also probably desensitized to them being impossible to balance. Even brand new they're not exactly Courvoisier, you know, super smoooooooooooth
rckhound
Rising Sun Member
I have used Front Range Drive line a few times and they have always been good. Brought them some non OEM Ujoints one time and they said I should get OEM Toyota ones because they are way better. I now always bring them OEM ones and they have never said anything about it after that.
KC Masterpiece
Hard Core 4+
- Joined
- May 4, 2019
- Messages
- 2,088
Realized I never followed up on this. I had the u joints replaced and the clunk went away 90%. I think the last little bit is due to really work bushings on the rear sway bar (only on the truck that have not been replaced).
I still do have a vibration around 65 - 75 that I feel more in the seat than the steering wheel. I think that is probably a balancing issue since my Duratracs are getting pretty old and are balanced with beads.
I still do have a vibration around 65 - 75 that I feel more in the seat than the steering wheel. I think that is probably a balancing issue since my Duratracs are getting pretty old and are balanced with beads.
Lastresort576
Hard Core 4+
Since were all here, how often are you guys finding that you need to replace your ujoints? I am ruuning Moog's...But I have a feeling that I am due for my 3rd set on the rear shaft in 5 years. Feels a bit excessive. its only been about 50k miles...
KC Masterpiece
Hard Core 4+
- Joined
- May 4, 2019
- Messages
- 2,088
I think OEM usually last around 200k. I'm really hoping to never change mine again.
I'm sure it is dependent on driveshaft angle. Moving from no lift, to 2" to 3" within 3 years seems to have been the final death blow to mine.[/QUOTE]