Clean bodied 1985 Toyota 4Runner

[Brucker]

Continuing on with the backbone, we cut and fit into place the next couple sections

Then a couple more until the backbone is finished out.

Then I fully welded the inside of the bumper together. This will allow us to be able to safely sand out/smooth out all the visible welds without losing any strength. Once the bumper had fully cooled, we pull it off the fab table and install it once again onto the 4Runner. This should be our last test fit if it didn't wrap during welding and if we got all our frame and body clearances right. Here it is installed

And one showing that the backside clears:

 

[simps80]

Fun build to watch!!!

 

[Brucker]

Everything looked good on the test fitting so we once again removed the bumper and clamped it to the fab table. After prepping the backbone we begin welding it solid.

Once the backbone was fully welded together and had cooled, we drilled a hole in each side of the winch tray to accommodate the wiring for the lighting once the bottom is plated.

Now we could finish plating the bumper. We repositioned the bumper on the fab table and clamped it into place. Then took measurements for and cut and tack welded the first set of bottom plates.

We then continued this process:

The next couple sets of plates needed bends for the correct fitment

 

[Brucker]

With the bumper still clamped to the fab table we fully welded the bottom plates in. Once cool we removed the clamps to reposition it for final welding.

We clamped two pieces of thick tubing to the front plate (one on the front and one on the rear, pinching the front plate between them) to keep it from warping when we weld the round rod

Then continued to reposition and clamp until the bumper was fully welded inside and out

And started the sanding process:

 

[Brucker]

Then once the majority of the rough sanding was completed, I once again bolted it onto the 4Runner for a quick look:

 

[MDH33]

That's looking fantastic.

My only critique would be regarding the box the winch sits in. Seems like it needs a big drain hole. I could see that filling up with mud, water gravel, etc. with no easy way to keep it cleared out.

 

[Brucker]

That's looking fantastic.

Thanks for the kind words

My only critique would be regarding the box the winch sits in. Seems like it needs a big drain hole. I could see that filling up with mud, water gravel, etc. with no easy way to keep it cleared out.

Good catch! If that's your only critique thus far, you must not be looking close enough

While the major fabrication of the bumper is complete, it is a long way from being finished. As was pointed out, it still needs drain hole(s), as well as weld washers around the winch mounting holes, lots more sanding/clean up, the possible addition of a hood hoop/stinger, and we will be tying in the back of the bumper into the shock hoops at some point.

 

[HoneyBadger]

That looks sick! I like it, a lot.

 

[Brucker]

That looks sick! I like it, a lot.

Thanks.

One of the main goals in fabricating the bumper was to try to keep the added weight to a minimum. Some tube bumpers can weigh as little as 60 lbs, and knowing that some plate bumpers can come close to 200 lbs. Here is how ours' fared.

Before to show the scale was tared correctly:

With it sitting on the scale:

Coming in at 93 lbs makes us happy. A tad heavier than we were shooting for, but well under the ARB at 160 lbs and even better than Body Amour Products plate style bumper which comes in right at 100 lbs.

 

[Brucker]

Also test fit the lights today. Think they should work well:

 

[AxleIke]

Looks fantastic!!!

What do you use to grind? Flapwheels, hard wheels, paper discs, etc? I am always looking for new ways to smooth things out.

 

[Brucker]

Looks fantastic!!!

What do you use to grind? Flapwheels, hard wheels, paper discs, etc? I am always looking for new ways to smooth things out.

Thank you for the kind words.

I usually use one of my large Makita 7" or 9" angle grinders outfitted with 7" flap disc from Heleta (use the 7" because I haven't found a 9" one). The bigger grinders are a lot heavier, but it doesn't take as much force or time to take the material off, so your arms don't really get tired quicker. And then I switch out to a complete 4.5" set up for the rest of the rough sanding. Then use one or more different styles of DA sanders for the finish work.

Here is a look at the difference between the more common 4.5" flap disc and the larger 7":

And one showing the difference between a 4.5" Makita vs a 7" one:

 

[Brucker]

Next up is the body work, cage and lining the interior with Herculiner. All of which will require most of the interior, as well as the top to be removed. We start with the top. Simply rig the top to be lifted by our overhead hoist, and lift up and away:

Like most beautiful woman do, it's looking good topless:

A quick glace at the top shows how dirty things can get with metal dust flying around constantly:

Ahh, good ol' brown shag carpeting, can't wait to remove it:

We remove the rest of the interior and doors:

 

[Brucker]

Time for some cage work. This time around, the client wanted a simple 4 point interior cage. By 4 point, we are referring to the amount of points the cage will be tied into the frame. It will be constructed out of DOM round tubing and tied into the frame using bushings. We will also be tying in the factory roll bar to the new tube work, stiffening the entire chassis. Eventually the plan is to eliminate the factory portions with new DOM throughout and adding 2 to 4 more frame tie in points.
Start off by making a few different sets of cage feet. Two sets for the A pillar and two sets for the B pillar; an interior set at each pillar as well as an exterior set. The difference between the interior plates and the exterior ones are the length and width dimensions. Having one side lager than the other will help keep the cage from easily shearing through the body during impact.
Below we show a top set of cage feet.

Then position the plates, layout for the through holes, and drill the 4 holes at each location.

Taking into account the very limited interior space, and the fact that the client wants to be able to still be able to fully use his seats (including being able to still flip the back seat down, completely flat), we bend up the first bars. The floor bars will be just that. They will connect the A pillar to the B pillar on each side along the floor. The rest of the cage will then be built off these tubes. After bending up the bars we begin to fit them into place:

Once both sides are fitted properly, we pull the seats again, and weld the bars to the plates as much as space allows.

 

[Brucker]

Once the bars have cooled enough, we unbolt and remove them for the vehicle and finish welding them solid. He is a photo of the two bars once fully welded, cleaned up, and ready for install. You will notice each bar is bent in a different shape to accommodate each side's different mounting brackets.

Then we install the bars into position

With the door and bars installed, you can easily see how tight to the door the finished bars are:

Next item was the main hoop or B pillar hoop. All bent up, notched and ready for install:

You will notice how again, each leg is different to fit as tight as possible and allow full use of the front and rear seats:

Tack welded into position

Folded down rear seat still works

 

[Brucker]

We prep a couple areas on the factory roll bar where we are going to tie in the new tube work.

Then bend up and notch a couple top bars to go between the B pillar and the factory roll bar and tack them into place:

Then cut and notched a couple gusset bars for the rear and tack welded them into position:

 

[imhighlander]

Beautiful work!

 

[AxleIke]

Looks good, but I'd stick with the high pile carpet. Totally rad!

 

[DaveInDenver]

Nice work. Bumper looks great and less bulky than an ARB. I prefer the bull bar because I wanted front end protection (and God knows having been in a couple of accidents they /do/ the job of preventing damage to the hood, grill and radiator).

For reference the standard issue ARB for my '91 IFS was about 80 lbs before putting a winch in it, the 140 lbs is I believe a fully loaded ARB with the winch. That's at least about what mine weights with an XD9000 and synthetic rope. Since you've eliminated the top hoops you've got the equivalent steel in the bracing, so it should be uber substantial.

 

[Brucker]

For reference the standard issue ARB for my '91 IFS was about 80 lbs before putting a winch in it, the 140 lbs is I believe a fully loaded ARB with the winch. That's at least about what mine weights with an XD9000 and synthetic rope. Since you've eliminated the top hoops you've got the equivalent steel in the bracing, so it should be uber substantial.

Thanks. Though the last 3 ARB bumpers that came through my shop all were between 150-165 lbs shipping weight, which didn't include any accessories like lights or winch. And that weight is also what ARB and TransAmerican lists most of their fronts at for shipping. I haven't brought one in for a 1st gen so they might be lighter, though yours isn't a first generation either so who knows? And I would honestly have to check if they make one for the first gens.

We were shooting for around 80 lbs before any accessories. Came in a tad high (13 lbs over) but we are still happy. There may still be a hoop added to the top of the bumper but that depends on the owners tastes. We actually played with a couple different styles (if you follow us on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/BruckerBrothersLtd, you would have seen a couple different attempts at fitting some hoops to it) and we couldn't find one that the owner was happy with yet. He for now has taken that off the build sheet, but that honestly seems to be changing everyday.