rover67
Rising Sun Member
no new knuckle bearings?
Clean bodied 1985 Toyota 4Runner
- Thread starter Brucker
- Start date
Caribou Sandstorm
Hard Core 4+
Nice thread and garage shop!
Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Nice catch and good question! It's funny, I remembered to make mention that I thought I over shimmed a knuckle as it felt too tight and even highlighted rechecking them but never made mention of installing new the hardware. So the downside to updating the thread, is that the only time I have to do so is late at night and in doing so, I sometimes make mistakes and skip over parts of the build. I can assure you that all new trunnion bearings and shims were used. We will be installing new bearings, seals, etc, all the way around.
Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Installed new seals and then both side axle shafts and birfs with plenty of grease. Always a messy job.
Then assembled everything in reverse order from above, including a hub from off our spare parts shelf to replace the broken unit.
You should notice we did not do an upgrade to the IFS vented rotors at this time to save a little cash. It will get done during a future routine brake job. Axle ready to put back under the rig:
Changing gears a little, we take a look at the Trail Gear front spring hanger. It is about 1.5 to 2 times thicker than the factory hangers making it super beefy for this application:
With the frame having already been prepped, we are able to make a few measurements and clamp the assembly into position:
And weld it into place:
Then assembled everything in reverse order from above, including a hub from off our spare parts shelf to replace the broken unit.
You should notice we did not do an upgrade to the IFS vented rotors at this time to save a little cash. It will get done during a future routine brake job. Axle ready to put back under the rig:
Changing gears a little, we take a look at the Trail Gear front spring hanger. It is about 1.5 to 2 times thicker than the factory hangers making it super beefy for this application:
With the frame having already been prepped, we are able to make a few measurements and clamp the assembly into position:
And weld it into place:
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Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Next up per Trail Gear is welding the bump stops to the spring plates.
Now we can move onto the IFS steering box conversion. As it looks before we start, with the stock steering box already removed.
Removed the rubber filler piece:
Trail Gear's IFS steering mount kit:
Plates clamped into place as far forward on the frame as possible:
To create some working room, we unbolt the radiator from its supports but still leave it connected entirely to the motor so we won't lose any fluids. Then we gentle lift it out of our way using a strap and an engine host:
With the holes marked, we drill through the frame and weld the round tubes into the frame and smooth it all out:
Install the new steering box mount plates securely to the frame. Then test fit the IFS steering box to make sure the pitman arm clears.
Now we can move onto the IFS steering box conversion. As it looks before we start, with the stock steering box already removed.
Removed the rubber filler piece:
Trail Gear's IFS steering mount kit:
Plates clamped into place as far forward on the frame as possible:
To create some working room, we unbolt the radiator from its supports but still leave it connected entirely to the motor so we won't lose any fluids. Then we gentle lift it out of our way using a strap and an engine host:
With the holes marked, we drill through the frame and weld the round tubes into the frame and smooth it all out:
Install the new steering box mount plates securely to the frame. Then test fit the IFS steering box to make sure the pitman arm clears.
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Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Everything clears so it is time to weld up the assembly:
And added gussets to each side of the frame just behind the new spring hanger assembly:
Once all the welds had cooled we returned the radiator to it normal mounting position. We will hold off on installing the box again as we will still need to install shook hoops.
And added gussets to each side of the frame just behind the new spring hanger assembly:
Once all the welds had cooled we returned the radiator to it normal mounting position. We will hold off on installing the box again as we will still need to install shook hoops.
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Such a great thread!! One of the best I've found. Keep it up.
Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Thanks for the kind words
Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Time to install the new front suspension. Here is a look at the front components we will be focusing on. Notice the spring plates that we already welded the bump stops onto have been already coated.
The new shackles include all new bushings and grease-able hardware. Some are not huge fans of the grease-able bolts as they are inherently weaker than a solid bolt. But our experience has shown that they are more than strong enough in this application. And that people are more likely to maintain (grease) their bushings when it is so easy for them to do so.
We bolt the new springs into place:
And then we are able to hang the front axle from the new springs.
Installed the wheel/tire combo the client has chosen to go with. FJ Crusier wheels with 35" Dick Cepek mud terrains. First look at it sitting on the 35's
We still need to install wheels spacers on the front axle, but they haven't arrived yet.
The new shackles include all new bushings and grease-able hardware. Some are not huge fans of the grease-able bolts as they are inherently weaker than a solid bolt. But our experience has shown that they are more than strong enough in this application. And that people are more likely to maintain (grease) their bushings when it is so easy for them to do so.
We bolt the new springs into place:
And then we are able to hang the front axle from the new springs.
Installed the wheel/tire combo the client has chosen to go with. FJ Crusier wheels with 35" Dick Cepek mud terrains. First look at it sitting on the 35's
We still need to install wheels spacers on the front axle, but they haven't arrived yet.
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Brucker
Hard Core 4+
We start off tackling the rear by a little more disassembling. We remove the stock gas tank skid:
Then remove the fuel tank after marking each side of all the lines with different colored tape to assure perfect reassembly. May seem a tad unnecessary but this is done so there will be no confusion later.
We now focus our attention to the removal of the stock spring and shackle hangers.
The new Trail Gear hangers as they arrived:
We lay out the new mounting positions for each spring hanger as per TG's instructions and tack weld them into place. TG offers two different mounting locations for the shackle hangers. One for the pickup (lighter applications) and one for the 4Runners (heavier applications). But based on our experience with these kits we chose to ignore both recommendations and located them to our own specifications. This will lead to a better shackle angle and take care of the "rear sag" problems most 4Runners have when all is said and done.
We will fully weld everything at a later date after some test fitting.
Then remove the fuel tank after marking each side of all the lines with different colored tape to assure perfect reassembly. May seem a tad unnecessary but this is done so there will be no confusion later.
We now focus our attention to the removal of the stock spring and shackle hangers.
The new Trail Gear hangers as they arrived:
We lay out the new mounting positions for each spring hanger as per TG's instructions and tack weld them into place. TG offers two different mounting locations for the shackle hangers. One for the pickup (lighter applications) and one for the 4Runners (heavier applications). But based on our experience with these kits we chose to ignore both recommendations and located them to our own specifications. This will lead to a better shackle angle and take care of the "rear sag" problems most 4Runners have when all is said and done.
We will fully weld everything at a later date after some test fitting.
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Brucker
Hard Core 4+
On to the rear axle. This one goes a lot quicker than the front. But we also won't be finishing it up completely right now. We will be stripping it down and then just tack welding the new spring perches until we can get in under the vehicle to set the correct pinion angle. We start by setting the axle up on stands which are on top of one of our rolling work surfaces.
Then remove the brake lines
And drained the diff fluid
Checking the factory pinon angle so we can get a better guesstimate on where to preset the new perches
Then removed the factory perches with a plasma cutter
And cleaned up the housing in preparation for the new perches
A look at the new perches. Much beefier than stock, and feature 3 different mounting locations for the center pin of the springs
Tack welding the new perches into place
Then remove the brake lines
And drained the diff fluid
Checking the factory pinon angle so we can get a better guesstimate on where to preset the new perches
Then removed the factory perches with a plasma cutter
And cleaned up the housing in preparation for the new perches
A look at the new perches. Much beefier than stock, and feature 3 different mounting locations for the center pin of the springs
Tack welding the new perches into place
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Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Shifting our focus onto the rear suspension, but mainly just on these components:
We have already coated the spring plates and you will notice the hardware is the same as the front.
Somewhere along the way of this 4Runner's life, she got an aftermarket exhaust system. The rear hanger for it will interfere with the new shackle hanger location. So we removed the exhaust hanger until we can determine how it needs to be modified.
We then installed the new springs and shackles
And hang the rear axle
We mounted the other two tires and wheels and were able to let it support it's own weight once again.
We still need to check/set the pinion angle and then we can pull it all apart to finish building the rear axle and fully weld the new hangers. But we are happy with the new stance.
We have already coated the spring plates and you will notice the hardware is the same as the front.
Somewhere along the way of this 4Runner's life, she got an aftermarket exhaust system. The rear hanger for it will interfere with the new shackle hanger location. So we removed the exhaust hanger until we can determine how it needs to be modified.
We then installed the new springs and shackles
And hang the rear axle
We mounted the other two tires and wheels and were able to let it support it's own weight once again.
We still need to check/set the pinion angle and then we can pull it all apart to finish building the rear axle and fully weld the new hangers. But we are happy with the new stance.
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Sweet! slight correction I believe those are FZJ80 rims, not FJ Cruiser rims. But who cares, nice work man. 
Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Sweet! slight correction I believe those are FZJ80 rims, not FJ Cruiser rims. But who cares, nice work man.
Thank you for the kind words.
The rims may be originally off an 80, though I pulled them off a stock FJ Cruiser. Guess I just assumed they were OEM for that year. Thanks for the heads up.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Lookin' good!! I dig the step by step!
Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Thanks. Got a LONG way to go before I get this one out of the shop though. And the owner just added on another couple of things he wants done this time around. He is very happy with the way things are coming together, which makes me happy. And the next couple of steps of this build are the more enjoyable ones for me. The custom fabrication stuff, where I get to be creative. Good times!
simps80
Rising Sun Member
the step by step is awesome.
Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Missed highlighting this one with the front axle. Installed the tie rod into the hi-steer arms. Left the drag link out until we install the steering box. I will let the photos do the explaining
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Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Time to install the rear bumper. We chose to go with the Trail Gear rear bumper as it was priced low but still offered plenty of protection. The owner would like to have something custom made to replace it on a later date, so we will be leaving it alone (no modifications), except for coating it in paint.
Here is a look at the bumper freshly unpacked from shipping
A look at the rear without any bumper
And with the bumper installed
There are plenty more photos of the entire build thus far here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.631275600216163.1073741850.230593130284414&type=3
Next week we should be able to get into the fun stuff, some custom fabrication!
Here is a look at the bumper freshly unpacked from shipping
A look at the rear without any bumper
And with the bumper installed
There are plenty more photos of the entire build thus far here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.631275600216163.1073741850.230593130284414&type=3
Next week we should be able to get into the fun stuff, some custom fabrication!
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Brucker
Hard Core 4+
Before we can start working on a front bumper, we need to strengthen the front cross member/spring hanger/frame section. To complete this we will fabricate a support plate for the area and weld it into place. This will add the needed strength as well as tie everything together neatly.
We begin by cleaning the area in question up and taking down the high spots in the existing welds in order for the new plate to fit properly.
We then take the necessary measurements for widths and heights and also hole placement. Then lay those out onto our material. The material we went with is 3/16" mild steel.
Then we cut the plate into the rough shape with one of our plasma cutters.
Cleaned up the edges and punched the through holes for the bumper mounting hardware
Mounted the plate into position using the factory hardware for the bumper
And then fully welded the plate into position and cleaned up our welds
Hope to be able to start on the front bumper design and fabrication soon. The shop is still crazy busy and other projects seem to keep taking precedence. The owner also just added another couple things to the "must do" list for us this time around. More details soon :evil:
We begin by cleaning the area in question up and taking down the high spots in the existing welds in order for the new plate to fit properly.
We then take the necessary measurements for widths and heights and also hole placement. Then lay those out onto our material. The material we went with is 3/16" mild steel.
Then we cut the plate into the rough shape with one of our plasma cutters.
Cleaned up the edges and punched the through holes for the bumper mounting hardware
Mounted the plate into position using the factory hardware for the bumper
And then fully welded the plate into position and cleaned up our welds
Hope to be able to start on the front bumper design and fabrication soon. The shop is still crazy busy and other projects seem to keep taking precedence. The owner also just added another couple things to the "must do" list for us this time around. More details soon :evil:
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