Broken or cut bolt

[WildCrustacean]

New thread from a discussion in the snow run thread about recovery anchor points (@rushthezeppelin).

This is the front right side of my truck, there is a broken bolt stuck in one of the threaded holes in the frame that I would like to eventually use to mount an anchor point:

I don't know if it initially broke off or if it was cut off, but it's cut/broken flush with the frame. There is some surface rust on the frame but overall it isn't that bad. I'm guessing that this bolt is rusted in though somehow.

I soaked it in PB blaster for a couple days, then drilled out the middle and tried to use a bolt extractor, which then snapped off and neatly filled the hole I drilled... so I gave up since I can at least put an anchor on the other side on the front for now.

I'm not sure what to do next, other than re-drill it out and try again. The only other thing I know to do is get a nut welded to the bolt fragment to try to get it out, but I'd need someone with a welding machine to do that.

 

[rushthezeppelin]

Yeah definitely looks like some grinder marks and was hit with primer after. Since you already broke an extractor in it welding a washer and nut on there is now likely your only recourse. Extractor are HARD and love to eat drill bits. I found that out with my elocker swap where I had one of the sway bar mount bolts on the donor break off.

 

[WildCrustacean]

Yeah definitely looks like some grinder marks and was hit with primer after. Since you already broke an extractor in it welding a washer and nut on there is now likely your only recourse. Extractor are HARD and love to eat drill bits. I found that out with my elocker swap where I had one of the sway bar mount bolts on the donor break off.

I havent tried drilling it again but I'm not expecting that to be easy now with the extractor stuck in there. But maybe if it was a cheap extractor it isn't all that hard, we will see.

I had another broken bolt on a bracket that holds the brake line, I ended up drilling that one out with a big bit close to the threads and then running a thread cleaner in there, but I dont think that is the best way.

 

[simps80]

Looks like enough of a nub

weld a nut on solid with higher heat than normally you would want cherry red squelch with oil
Wait
Then back it out

 

[J Kimmel]

Looks like enough of a nub

weld a nut on solid with higher heat than normally you would want cherry red squelch with oil
Wait
Then back it out

Exactly this

 

[rushthezeppelin]

I havent tried drilling it again but I'm not expecting that to be easy now with the extractor stuck in there. But maybe if it was a cheap extractor it isn't all that hard, we will see.

I had another broken bolt on a bracket that holds the brake line, I ended up drilling that one out with a big bit close to the threads and then running a thread cleaner in there, but I dont think that is the best way.

I broke a cheap HF extractor in mine and it was definitely hard.

 

[Corbet]

Yup weld now. When I’ve broken bolts off like that I drill them stepping up slowly until I can clean out the hole with a tap. But the first hole needs to on center.

 

[RicardoJM]

The extractors are a hard steel and it will be very difficult to drill through it. I had this happen with a head bolt and was able to use a Dremel to grind the broken extractor and get it removed. Romer had a similar issue and in that thread, I had these two posts of advice.

Front Recovery point- Broken bolt

I broke a bolt (1 out of 2) on my front recovery point. I used a reverse titanium drill bit and easy out to no joy I then used a Cobalt reverse drill bit with a different type of Easy Out made by Irwin to no joy So I bought the welder and the cavity of the bolt was so hollow there wasn't...

risingsun4x4club.org

Front Recovery point- Broken bolt

I broke a bolt (1 out of 2) on my front recovery point. I used a reverse titanium drill bit and easy out to no joy I then used a Cobalt reverse drill bit with a different type of Easy Out made by Irwin to no joy So I bought the welder and the cavity of the bolt was so hollow there wasn't...

risingsun4x4club.org

This post in my biography thread has the background on the my issue with a head bolt.

Welding a nut as others have suggested will likely also work to get it removed. However, it you have a Dremel and can grind away the broken extractor - use the drill to make the hole bigger and it is quite likely a slightly larger extractor will get it out.

 

[WildCrustacean]

Thanks for the suggestions! I do have a Dremel so maybe I will start with that and try to get the extractor out at least.

 

[rushthezeppelin]

Thanks for the suggestions! I do have a Dremel so maybe I will start with that and try to get the extractor out at least.

Worth a try, I tried it and just chewed up a bunch of ceramic bits lol.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Worth a try, I tried it and just chewed up a bunch of ceramic bits lol.

Oh yeah, those ceramic bits will polish up steel real purdy.

You need tool steel drilling or grinding bits. Slow and fluid isn't a bad idea.

 

[WildCrustacean]

Victory is mine! Got it by drilling with successively larger bits and soaking it with PB blaster until it broke free. Wouldn't thread out enough to grab it but it went all the way into the frame and I could get it with a magnet grabber thing.

It's possible that I touched the threads a little on the one side with the drill bit (my hole wasn't quite centered), but it looks pretty clean to me in the hole and this is the best I could do anyway.

Now the question is, I only have two d-ring anchors right now, should they both go on the front, or one on the front and one on the back?

 

[nakman]

Do you have a rear receiver hitch? If so I'd put both recovery points in front, then plan on using the receiver hitch for the rear.. can add more in back later.

and nice work! Good excuse to buy a tap... run a tap into those threads and you'll clean them up really well, even if you dinged them with the drill bit they should be threads again. Lots of great info in this thread... I made a video a few years back if you want to see it again.

 

[rushthezeppelin]

I agree, both on front. Countless people on the run I'm sure have shackle receivers. Also as a heads up since I went through this already. I never could find a torque spec for those explicitly but using the FSM I took the stamp on the bolt head and the size and pitch and came up with I think 85-90ftlbs for a spec. I've used mine a few times with no issues so that should serve you well.

 

[rushthezeppelin]

Ohhh also forgot to mention if you still want to keep that CV as an emergency spare you are welcome to, It might have a ripped boot but is still perfectly functional and will definitely get you off a trail and get you home if you break a CV on a run.

 

[WildCrustacean]

Do you have a rear receiver hitch? If so I'd put both recovery points in front, then plan on using the receiver hitch for the rear.. can add more in back later.

and nice work! Good excuse to buy a tap... run a tap into those threads and you'll clean them up really well, even if you dinged them with the drill bit they should be threads again. Lots of great info in this thread... I made a video a few years back if you want to see it again.

I do have a rear hitch, but it's currently taken off and needs to be cleaned up and reinstalled, not sure if I have time to do that before Saturday but we'll see.

That's a nice video too, that is pretty much exactly the procedure I ended up with. If I had a welding machine I might have tried that, but drilling it out worked in the end. I do have a tap that I will use to clean all the other threads as well before installing anything.

I agree, both on front. Countless people on the run I'm sure have shackle receivers. Also as a heads up since I went through this already. I never could find a torque spec for those explicitly but using the FSM I took the stamp on the bolt head and the size and pitch and came up with I think 85-90ftlbs for a spec. I've used mine a few times with no issues so that should serve you well.

4Crawler (where I bought the anchors from) installation instructions say 75-85 ft-lbs, so that sounds right for the torque spec.

Ohhh also forgot to mention if you still want to keep that CV as an emergency spare you are welcome to, It might have a ripped boot but is still perfectly functional and will definitely get you off a trail and get you home if you break a CV on a run.

If you don't want/need it back I'll hold on to it, although now with the junkyard OEM set I got and the one that came off my truck, I think I have three spare CV axles laying around in my garage in various states of disrepair.