Battery maintenance chargers

DaveInDenver

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Batteries and charging are something I've got quite a bit of professional experience, so a dreaded long form...

I like to see temperature compensation as a feature. It's not something you see very often, which makes options somewhat limited. As an alternative having the ability to adjust the voltage can work. Lead-acid is pretty tolerant so down to the 0.001V precision isn't necessary. Just that if the perfect voltage is 13.6V you want to be able to dial it up to perhaps 14.2V in the dead of winter and down to 13.3V in the middle of summer.

Strictly speaking there's no benefit to leaving a battery on a float indefinitely. You do need to charge a battery regularly. How often depends on the self discharge or any parasitic load on it.

If you disconnect the battery like Ige does on Annie it might only be necessary to put a battery on a charger a couple of times a year to minimize aging. You have to check with your specific manufacturer but most times the recommendation is to run a full charge first and at ~75°F you can store it for a year or two. How long it can sit will depend on temperature, though. Warmer shortens storage, colder increases it. Think about it. A battery is made, the factory fills and charges it then ships it to a warehouse and eventually to a store. It's not maintained ever and it could be many months or years before it's put into service. Better distribution might track dates but that's very rare outside military and aerospace. Usually a warranty clock only starts ticking when you buy it and put it into service.

Most of the time when you don't disconnect it from the load and the parasitic draw isn't excessive then once a month is usually fine. That's what I do. First of the month I put all my batteries on a "good" charger. BTW, that includes my daily driven vehicles since charging system in cars is not ideal and so your starter battery will last longer if you top it up with a good charge regularly. I'll leave a daily driver on a charge overnight so it takes a weekend to get all of our cars conditioned.

So answer the question directly my favorite off the shelf normal charger is the BatteryMinder 128CEC. This can charge a dead battery, albeit not super fast since it's only 8 amps maximum. A large battery might take 10 to 12 hours to fully bulk charge. I do have a massive bulk charger capable of 45 amps, specifically an Iota DLS-45. But the controller on it can't do temp compensation so I don't use it for routine maintance.

But the 128CEC does a 3 step charge and is temperature compensated. It can do the right voltages for gel (or lithium in newer models), regular lead-acid and Odyssey/X2 AGM (the so-called pure lead EnerSys/Northstar need a slightly higher voltage). It's one of the few commercial chargers I've found that follows Odyssey's spec for both voltage and temperature. It's plug and forget. If the battery needs more than a quik top it can handle it. Otherwise it just tests, can then sit idle overnight and do nothing. They make versions of these models that are FAA-certified for the aviation industry. An aircraft owner might just plug it in and let it sit a day or a month and it's certified not to ruin the battery, so there's that.


If you really want just a winter maintainer I like using industrial power supplies. I'll put my motorcycle on something like this for about a week once a month. The problem with a single voltage charger is it can't do constant high current bulk or a higher constant voltage absorption, so if it needs more than a float it would take a loooong time to get to 100% charge.

Many battery tenders are just that, a constant voltage power supply. They aren't usually particularly high quality, though. So for the money a charger designed to be integrated into equipment is usually pretty decent without a bunch of marketing fluff.

For that I've used a Mean Well SCP series power supplies, specifically I use a SCP-50-12. This is 13.8V nominally, adjustable (I tweak it down usually), 50W max (so can provide 3.6A maximum), very low ripple (meaning high quality DC output), well protected against over voltage and will automatically temperature compensate if you add an NTC 100K termistor. The supply is about $20, a thermistor is a few cents and a case if you really want to be fancy.

The design intended use for this particular supply is to maintain a battery like you'd find in mobile medical equipment, for example, so it's not junk but also doesn't have the overhead trying to market to be #olaf.

 
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DaveInDenver

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My Renogy charge controller in my camper has a temp sensor.
Is that your solar controller? I use a Morningstar SunSaver MPPT 15 for large solar, which also has temp compensation. It's set to -30mV/°C from the factory but can be adjusted if you use their configuration software. There isn't really just one exact coefficient, for example Odyssey recommends -24mV/°C and that also happens to be what Mean Well uses while BatteryMinder uses -28mV/°C. A few % either way isn't critical, it's more just that it's done either automatically or manually. The little 13W trickle solar I sometimes put on is a dumb device, no temp compensation and can't be adjusted (thereby violated everything I've suggested). But it's not sourcing much current so the risk of under- or over-charging is very small and I'll only leave it when I park at a trailhead headed out on a long backpack. Being technically a gel charger most times there's only a max of ~500mA and it's only a 13.2V output, so it's usually quite a lot less and just barely covering the ECU parasitic and not doing any actual charging.
 
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Inukshuk

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DaveInDenver

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I'm in need of a second battery maintainer. Based on all of the above I'm going to buy the https://www.batteryminders.com/1510-12-volt-maintenance-charger-desfulator-with-warranty
$59 on Amazon.
Temperature compensated.
I have the big brother of that one, a model 128CEC. Been good for me so far, although I'm dubious the pulser/desulfator really does much. All-in-all I think they make a good charger that ticks the important boxes.

Note that the 1510 is intended for plain lead acid, the stage voltages:

Screen Shot 2024-02-16 at 9.52.29 AM.png

Also, the model 1500 is the same charger as the 1510 but comes with fewer accessories so will be a few Dollars cheaper. If you cut off connectors and use PowerPoles the ring adapter and alligator clips may be unnecessary.

Depending on how you feel about the evil empire I got mine from Battery Stuff and their price is usually competitive.

I'd also throw out that the 1500 and 1510 are not suitable for damp areas. For a dry garage maintainer you'll be getting a solid one for $60.

The next up charger BatteryMindr sells is the model 2012. It is IP65 rated so can handle a little bit more environmental stuff if you might use it outside or somewhere like that. These are around $100, give or take. It's a similar class of charger otherwise, just slightly more current and adds a battery test. Neither of those are worth the extra money so you'd have to need the IP65 rating to justify it.

However, the main electrical feature difference is you can get a model 2012 specific to your battery type. So if you have an X2 or Odyssey you get the option of one with a higher voltage. Unfortunately to get one selectable for type you have to step up yet again to a 128CEC.

Getting the AGM one would probably be worth the extra money if you've gone with one of the high end batteries. Not absolutely critical if you're just floating to have the slightly higher voltage. More important to have the absorption (CV) voltage right during charging, if you're doing that routinely.

Screen Shot 2024-02-16 at 9.52.45 AM.png

 
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Crash

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My online research agrees with DiD that desulfation is really a nonissue. I do like the agm tender he notes that pushes 14.7 volts.
 

Inukshuk

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I hat this stuff. Why can't it be dumber. My 80 has and odyssey, my others are old flooded acid style. And I don't want to spend the money!
 

DaveInDenver

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I hat this stuff. Why can't it be dumber. My 80 has and odyssey, my others are old flooded acid style. And I don't want to spend the money!
It's confusing and I probably don't help that much.

In your case with an Odyssey I'd opt for the AGM model 2012 to maximize it's life. It's just my $0.02 that you happen to fall into the place where the ~$100 option may be cost justified.

Flooded batteries are cheap and more tolerant of abuse so you're going to do less damage to them by running a bit over voltage than you would being under on the Odyssey. And even there it's more in the heat of summer that you'd have to be concerned on the FLA. In winter the higher voltage is probably even money or slightly helping to condition them.
 
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Inukshuk

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It's confusing and I probably don't help that much.
Au Contraire Mon Frere! Saved me buying the wrong one.
With the right social media person you could create Dave's Buying Guide and slay it!

This model says AGM only. Maybe I should just switch to Wal Mart batteries!
 

Inukshuk

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DaveInDenver

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This NoCo model Genius 2 is also temperature regulated and 2A, and does all battery types and is $49 on Amazon. https://no.co/genius2
@DaveInDenver - drawbacks?
Seems like a fine little charger on paper. Hits all the important things.

Be sure to get one sold by Amazon (or another legitimate seller) and not a 3rd party grey market one where the warranty might not be honored.
 

DanInDenver

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This NoCo model Genius 2 is also temperature regulated and 2A, and does all battery types and is $49 on Amazon. https://no.co/genius2
@DaveInDenver - drawbacks?
I have the Genius 5 and it’s brought back several dead batteries. I have a 2011 BMW AGM battery original to the car that I just replaced this year when it couldn’t keep up with the brutal sub zero weather. Using the charger to restore that battery about every 6 months, I’m convinced got me another couple years use.
 

LARGEONE

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On the NOCO just make sure you purchase at least one of the little adapters to SAE plug type. The NoCo has a proprietary plug type and often you can get the SAE pigtails way cheaper.

 
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