84 FJ60 new heart

[Capriblue45]

Well it has started, I reported at the meeting this month that my next mod was a rebuild of the driveline in my 60. I pulled the Motor, trans and Tcase out of my 297K mile daily driver to give it a new life. Dropped the 2F rotating assembly at Gunn today, hoping that I don't have to get a job when they call me with the estimate for the machine work. Overall I was pleasantly surprised at the overall condition of the internals but the micrometer will tell the story once everything is cleaned. The goal is to have this back on the road by Mid- March so I can break it in before Cruise Moab.

 

[Cruisertrash]

Helluva time frame! Are you reusing pistons, rods, etc? Bigger valves? I’ll be following this thread because I’m not too far behind you in doing this.

 

[Capriblue45]

It helps when you no longer have a day job. I figure I can have all the other parts ready to go back in by the time Gunn is done with the machine work. They told me 4-6 weeks when I dropped everything off. Right now the plan is to just clean everything up and not chase HP out of a 2F. I was amazed that it appeared to have never been cracked as they were TEQ pistons with no indication of oversizing. I keep you informed of costs as I get more information from Gunn.

 

[Capriblue45]

With the warmer weather yesterday I was able to roll the transmission and transfercase outside and pressure wash off 39 plus years of grease and gravel off them. Starting the tear down and lots of wire brushing in the parts washer tank, but the results are worth it.

 

[Capriblue45]

Finished the cleaning and reseal of the transfer and transmission this week, as well as new U joints in the driveshafts. Time to tackle the birfields and axle seals.

 

[Cruisertrash]

Finished the cleaning and reseal of the transfer and transmission this week, as well as new U joints in the driveshafts. Time to tackle the birfields and axle seals.

I'm doing a transfer case right now too, a spare one onto a spare transmission so I can keep the 60 rolling every day. Got delayed because the input gear had a deep groove in the sealing surface and a few teeth were chipped on the corner (surprisingly the idler gear it mates to was great). Just got a brand new Terrain Tamer long spline input gear in the mail yesterday so progress can continue. Thanks for the inspiration, it'll help me keep pushing.

 

[MDH33]

Would love to see all the details of what's involved. I need to do the clutch in my 40 and debating rebuilding the trans/transfer while it's out. I have a bit of gear whine and plenty of leaky seals.

 

[Capriblue45]

When the trans and transfer are out for the clutch replacement is the perfect time to at a minimum reseal both cases. Have you thought about putting an equalizer line between the transfer fill and the transmission fill. The seal between the 2 cases is notorious for leaking by and overfilling the transmission. I built one for each of my trucks for about $50. These are also available at several sites for around $100.

 

[Cruisertrash]

When the trans and transfer are out for the clutch replacement is the perfect time to at a minimum reseal both cases. Have you thought about putting an equalizer line between the transfer fill and the transmission fill. The seal between the 2 cases is notorious for leaking by and overfilling the transmission. I built one for each of my trucks for about $50. These are also available at several sites for around $100.

I have one of those hoses that I’d let go of! After my transfer case rebuild - and a brand new input gear so the seal has a perfect surface to ride on - I’m hoping there’s no inter-leaking. I think I bought it from one of the big places. Cruiser Outfitters, SOR, etc.

$60?

 

[Capriblue45]

I plan to keep mine installed on my 60 even after the new seal and good mating surfaces. When i pulled my split case apart and removed the input gear the existing seal was dislodged from the case and floating on the transmission output shaft. there is nothing on the transmission side to keep the seal from moving forward and doing the same thing the old one did. I see no harm in having the equalizer line installed. somewhat belt and suspenders I guess.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

I have one of those hoses that I’d let go of! After my transfer case rebuild - and a brand new input gear so the seal has a perfect surface to ride on - I’m hoping there’s no inter-leaking. I think I bought it from one of the big places. Cruiser Outfitters, SOR, etc.

$60?

Ill take it!

 

[Capriblue45]

I dropped off new pistons and cam at Gunn today. Good news on the head no cracks and only needs new exhaust valves. Everything else is in spec and can be reconditioned. I have resealed the front and rear axles while I've been waiting on the machine work and starting the birfield rebuild and new brakes on the front axle. Also have all new tie rod ends since the boots were completely shot on the old ones. Should have some pics to post up in a few days.

 

[Capriblue45]

I decided with Cruise Moab and SAS #8 coming up this year along with a few other trips with the 60 I needed to up my game with a new compressor. I dropped by Thor's Lightning yesterday and picked up one of their total control compressors. I decided to go this route rather than a vehicle mounted set up as I have 3 trucks that I take out and it makes better sense for me to have one system that i can move from truck to truck. I already had a home built 4 tire set up so I only opted for the Compressor. I have to say I am completely blown away at how quickly this thing can fill a set of 4-285/70/17 tires. I first dropped them all to 16 PSI with my hose assembly, this only took 2 minutes flat to go from 32PSI. The fill from 16PSI to 32 PSI only took 3:25 for all 4 tires, and best feature ever auto stop when hitting target Pressure. Game changer on the trails. The CEO at Thor's checked me out himself as his team was in a meeting. Nice guy and gave me a 10% discount for being a club member.

 

[Capriblue45]

The front axle is rebuilt with new bearings, seals, rotors, calipers and all new rubber brake hoses. Next up is replacement of the tie rod ends and getting the rig back on it's wheels.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Looking good!

 

[Capriblue45]

I spoke with TJ at Gunn yesterday and they are just waiting on my crankshaft. I hope to pick everything up next week so I can start the reassembly of the 2F. As long as I have no surprises the rig should be good to go for CM in April.

 

[RDub]

This is great. Thanks for posting. What did you do for new pistons and cam?

 

[Capriblue45]

Very few options out there anymore for pistons and cams. I was able to get 20 over ITM pistons and a factory grind cam from ITM on rock auto website. I believe this to be the same cam that several of the cruiser parts companies sell for $100 more. The new lifters actually cost more than the cam did.

$256 plus shipping for the new 20 over pistons and rings.
$319 plus shipping for the cam and lifters.

 

[RDub]

Thanks. Were your cylinders at top of wear spec or were the ring grooves just at wear limit (or both)? Cam lobes also worn? My 60 had a 2F of unknown mileage but history from PO says it’s a used engine from a yard that replaced the original, probably at least 180k-225k or so on it. Blows blues after coasting to a stop and then driving off, and I know the valves are leaking but still need to do more compression testing to get a feel for condition of pistons and bores. Leakdown showed hissing from exhausts for sure. Stem seals bad at very least as well.

 

[Capriblue45]

At 297K the cylinders needed to be cleaned up 20 over and the cam and lifters had enough wear that I decided to replace them while I was in this deep. The crank needed 10 under on the mains and 20 under on the rod big end as it had a bad scar on #1. I only want to go through this thing once so I am replacing everything that is outside of spec. The head needed all new exhaust valves but the remaining parts were all serviceable.