4th Gen 4Runner Front End Clunk

RDub

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Need some help diagnosing a front end clunk in my 2006 4Runner. It is most noticeable at slow speeds over bumpy stuff. It has 280,000 miles, is bone stock, drives straight as an arrow and doesn’t wander. Thinking maybe ball joints but I don’t know how to properly check them. Any thoughts on that and on what else typically causes clunking on 4th Gens for me to look at?
 

RDub

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The control arm bushings actually look great. The lower shock bushings might be suspect.
 

Yota_addict

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I’ve replaced most front end parts and bushing on my 4th gen except the tie rods. I still get a clunk (more of a pop). At least lately it seems to be coming from the driver side. The tie rods don’t seem worn but will be replaced too. If you figure it out post it.
 

DaveInDenver

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Has any of it been replaced? At 280K it could pretty much be any of the suggestions if it's original.

FWIW, to check the ball joints the FSM has very specific procedures. In place one uses a dial indicator to measure vertical play. The limit is 0.020" when you push the on the lug nuts with 66 lbs of force.

Then there's an inspection once you have the LCA off that you rock the ball joint back and forth 5 times then rotate it 5 times at a rate of 2 to 4 seconds per turn and on the 5th rotation you check how much torque it takes to turn. They say look for 27 in-lb or less. Although it's not clear to me what's the limit to replace, meaning you want more or less than 27 in-lb to be good. I thought more but I've never done the rock and rotate test.

How long do you think you want to keep the truck?
 
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RDub

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Thanks for the suggestions. So far I’ve just crawled under the front as far as I can fit and looked at bushings and ball joints for obvious signs of failure. Everything looks good, but I need to jack it up and start pushing things around. Nothing in the front suspension, steering included, has been replaced. Oh, and the truck has that X-REAS shock absorber stabilization system.
How are the swaybar links and bushings?
The bushings look good. Haven’t tried to check the links yet. Will do today.
How long do you think you want to keep the truck?
We’ve had it since new and would like to keep it for another couple of years. Perfect for our needs.

So I’m planning on getting the front in the air today to do a more thorough visual inspection, and wiggle and shove things around to look for play. Any tips on practical methods to check for loose ball joints? Thanks everybody.
 

DaveInDenver

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Wrenches who can check ball joints in place to statistically significant accuracy I think are practicing black magic. If you can see or even feel movement using cheater bars to pry then IMO the ball joint is so worn out that even a monkey could have figured it out. Like I said, Toyota is looking for 0.020" of play. So if you think the BJs are worn they probably are.

The reason I ask how long you want to keep it is Toyota doesn't sell ball joints for these trucks as individual parts. You have to buy a whole control arm. That's about $400 each so $1600 for all four. If you suspect one BJ they're all likely pretty worn out. You can get aftermarket ball joints and press them in and our yourself. The quality is OK but that's a lot of work.

Thus, the MOOG aftermarket I put on were $100 each and lasted a couple of years, so that might be an option if you're not worried about long term. If you're not willing to fork out Toyota part money then I don't see any reason not to do MOOG arms. The difference in price between just a ball joint and a whole arm is maybe $40 per arm and if you're doing BJs and bushings the whole MOOG assembly is cheaper.

But the lower headache is almost immeasurable. You'll probably have to cut the old arms off so having a new set is soooo much easier after having done that.

You'll also want new upper arm bolts. Those are probably the biggest PITA to the whole project. It's easiest just to cut the old bolt to remove it and run the new one in the opposite direction. When Toyota built these trucks they didn't really build in a good way to get that bolt out without hitting sheet metal.

That will eliminate ball joints and control arm bushings. Then all that's left are tie rod ends and sway bars. The TREs I would also replace on principle and sway bar clunking is just annoying, not dangerous.
 
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RDub

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It’s the passenger side sway bar mount bushing. Had about an 1/8” of play in it, couldn’t really get a hold of it to check until I had it up in the air. Did a temporary “farmer’s fix” and shimmed it by putting a sleeve made from an old MTB inner tube between the bar and the rubber mount, and noise appears to be all gone. Time to order a couple replacements.

I did buy myself a new problem, though. I broke off one of the four bolts holding the front factory skid plate on, passenger side rear. It’s exposed; but I can’t imagine I can get it out without drill and tap. We shall see.
 

DaveInDenver

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I did buy myself a new problem, though. I broke off one of the four bolts holding the front factory skid plate on, passenger side rear. It’s exposed; but I can’t imagine I can get it out without drill and tap. We shall see.
When you say passenger side rear do you mean one (there's 4, two up by the radiator core support and two down low) of the big 12mm ones ahead of the diff or one (of two) small 8mm ones behind the oil pan? I stripped both the little ones and have since drilled them out and retapped them to 10mm anyway. So it may just be a hint for the future.
 

RDub

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The heat from mig welding a nut on the nub will break it loose.
Good idea. I have a buddy nearby that says he can help with that.
When you say passenger side rear do you mean one (there's 4, two up by the radiator core support and two down low) of the big 12mm ones ahead of the diff or one (of two) small 8mm ones behind the oil pan? I stripped both the little ones and have since drilled them out and retapped them to 10mm anyway. So it may just be a hint for the future.
It’s one of the 8mm bolts. All four on ours are the same pos 8mm bolts. They love to rust in place. From your experience it sounds like there is plenty of metal in the frame weld nut to open it up to 10mm. I may try that if the welded nut trick doesn’t work out. Thanks.
 

RDub

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Ordering new OEM rubber sway bar bushings. So what’s the consensus on lubing those? I’ve never replaced stock with stock, always went squeaky polyurethane before due to application (hot rodded Alfas and VW’s setup more or less for autocross/track day).
 

DaveInDenver

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Good idea. I have a buddy nearby that says he can help with that.

It’s one of the 8mm bolts. All four on ours are the same pos 8mm bolts. They love to rust in place. From your experience it sounds like there is plenty of metal in the frame weld nut to open it up to 10mm. I may try that if the welded nut trick doesn’t work out. Thanks.
From what I could tell it's typical Toyota method with a captured nut and has so far held fine. Just so we're clear this is what it looks like under my truck. When I say re-tap it was full tap not Heli-coil, using 11/32" drill and M10-1.25 cutting threads. I cannot say 100% that there's enough material there by the book so YMMV...

IMG_3752_mid.jpgIMG_3749_mid.jpg
 

RDub

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Thanks, @DaveInDenver. That’s a different setup than the 4Runner, which has one piece from the radiator support down to the suspension crossmember, and a second pan from the latter back a ways. The front pan is held on by 4 of those 8mm bolts. Not sure what the other pan has.
 
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RDub

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Looks like 3 pieces on the 4 Runner. The broken bolt is one of the two rearmost bolts on the front pan.
 
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DaveInDenver

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This is a Tacoma. It's two pieces stock, too. It's a little confusing since all the bolts (90080-11373) are 8mm in this diagram. Only the two rear most are retained with my aftermarket plate. Those are the ones I had to drill and tap to 10mm.

I suspect those two lower cross members are basically the same on both trucks. Tacos lack the extended plate and have a notch in the under engine plate but the mounting seems the same.

511166E.png

Because the 12mm (90119-A0173) are actually holding two subframe brackets (51403 and 51404) stock, which back up the splash pans to give them support. It all got removed with the aftermarket skid plate. I assume it's the front sloped plate where the two trucks are mainly different.

511194.png
 

RDub

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Thanks, Dave. I should have realized your skid plate wasn’t OEM. I’m hoping my buddy can get the rusted stub out with the welder and a nut, but I’m not holding my breath. The issue I fear is more that the exposed threads on the bolt where it sticks out beyond the frame nut is covered in rust. No way to get at that to clean it up. Nice thread jammer.
 
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