DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I'd measure them and if they're all the same diameter and length I'd feel OK reusing them. Either way might consider a thread restoring (NOT a cutting) tap and die for the bolts and block.
22RE Newbie
- Thread starter AdamKFarmer
- Start date
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Marco, this is where I'm leaning, they seemed fine if just gunky.
Okay, this is a good suggestion! Thanks!
rover67
Rising Sun Member
definitely clean the threads so the bolts go in by hand so you can get a good clamp with the proper bolt torque!
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
@DaveInDenver I ran into an issue and need your advice. I disconnected the water bypass tube on the left side of the timing cover (PS) and the water heater pipe (DS) both of these had gaskets, when looking at my Toyota gasket kit, there are none and I can't find a part number to save my life. I even spoke to parts counter at Stevinson and can't find anything. I've seen someone say o-ring but still at a loss. Do you know what you used here?
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I believe the gasket for those pipe (I think they're referred to as by-pass pipes) is part of the left and right timing chain cover gaskets.
If that seems right the part numbers I have are 11329-35030 and 11328-35030.
If that seems right the part numbers I have are 11329-35030 and 11328-35030.
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Oh my god. I feel like an idiot
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
No reason you should, it's not obvious especially since someone maybe tried to use generic ones for some reason. The EPC at the parts desk should show it, so those guys at Stevinson should have seen it.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Are you reassembling? You should know that the order of torquing is important. Leave the timing chain cover bolts loose until the head is torqued. Then do the ones in front on the cover and then put the pan on. If you do it out of order the head might not seal right in front if there's a lip. There's no head bolts but there is a small bolt through the head into the timing chain cover.
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
On gaskets: If you don't have access to (trail repair) or they don't make them any more, paper gaskets can be cut from sheets of paper gasket material available from parts stors. I carry some in my trail spares stash as well as keep some in my garage. On rubber gaskets and o-rings, now that I have a 3D printing store I can make rubber gaskets and o-rings from TPU (thermoplastic Urethane) which is fine for anything coolant related and is oil and gasoline resistant.
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Dave, yes I'm waiting on a new cover and timing chain kit as we speak. I have the RM and it's pretty specific on the order of removal and torque. I haven't taken it off quite yet but I am concerned that the guy who replaced the chain previously and did such a poor job might have gotten the bolt sizes mixed up. Do you know which sizes go where? I haven't looked yet.
Jeff, I have done that on the 40 before when I tore the oil pressure sender one. The 3D printer option is good to know for the future!
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
You the man!!
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
These are old part numbers (some I think are superseeded) but it gives you a relative view. It is important since you can punch the back of the casting in some of the blind holes for the water and oil pumps.
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
I pulled the timing cover, I am waiting on a new one so I took a few days off from the pickup project. I wonder why it was leaking? I say that tongue in cheek. Either the weld wasn't oil/water proof or the whole thing was warped from the heat. I haven't put a straight edge on it, but I wouldn't be surprised.
Yikes!
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Welding oily cast aluminum is a very difficult thing to do, so whoever did that actually did pretty good all things considered. It might actually be fine once you clean it up and get the right gasket in there. OTOH seeing the half ass gasketing and RTV doesn't inspire confidence, does it?
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Feels an unecessary gamble when a new cover is $150. The cutting corners really doesn't make me think he did much correctly. It was leaking externally and internally so full replacement seems the route!
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DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
If that was laying on my workbench that's exactly where it'd stay, too. It's an unknown that for $150 I'd not risk either.
All I was thinking aloud was that perhaps the person who did the most recent work wasn't the same who did the repair originally. Someone who could weld that probably would have been more thoughtful on buttoning the engine back up. Seeing RTV indiscriminately used around the timing cover strikes me of someone who didn't take the timing cover off for some sort of repair or perhaps did work behind the timing cover without pulling the head.
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AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
I was also surprised that someone who would cut corners could weld aluminum that well, maybe it was repaired at different times. When I pulled the pan there were chunks of the timing cover in there as well, so he really did the bare minimum with the repair!