AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
That is the part that was in the pan on mine! that lip at the bottom
22RE Newbie
- Thread starter AdamKFarmer
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That is the part that was in the pan on mine! that lip at the bottom
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Does anyone have any ideas on getting Aisin hubs to turn more easily? I took them off and cleaned them, replace the o-ring and re-lubed them but when I put the snap ring in I have to use a wrench to turn it.
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RicardoJM
Hard Core 4+
Adam, welcome back. If it is the dial that is sticking, the good news is it is interchangeable with any other Aisin dial. It used to be there were bunches of IFS Toyota trucks, Suzukis and Isuzu troopers in the junk yard with done dials. I don't go to the junk yard as much any more, so I don't know if that is still the case.
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Ricardo hey! Hope you're doing well. That's my next option, but I was hoping to get these working again, I'm puzzled to say the least.
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
Take 'em back off and visually examine what's wrong. All locking hubs should be finger turn, whether Warn, Aisin Milemarker or whatever.
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Thanks Jeff, I used more grease and that seemed to solve it. Also I just noticed this damage on my crank. What should I do? Weld it? JB weld it?
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
Wow. I would fill it in with JB Weld and sand it smooth. I doubt NOT doing that would be detrimental. At least your keys and (presumabley) keyways are in good condition for the crank pulley. I had broken key and keyway issues on my 60 at Cruise Moab several years ago when I arrived at camp with a loose crank pulley and missing big ol' nut. Eternally grateful to Grateful Abe that year for bringing me a big ol' nut and 46mm socket to do a Slickrock repair. Marlin helped on that one too. BVB assessed that the crank was history but blue lock tight and a new big ol' nut and so far so good.
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Welp, I need your advice again guys. I put it all back together and got it running. I have some issues that I need some thoughts on. I have two coolant leaks, the first is a manifold bolt underneath the manifold the second is the bypass tube on the on the back of the timing cover. These didn't leak before and I'm curious why now. In the picture below you can see the red drip on the manifold right above the diamond shaped bypass. I replaced the intake gasket and the timing cover gasket I also tried using some FIP on the bypass and it still leaks a bit. Secondly I have an exhaust leak I think, again fresh Toyota gasket, torqued to spec. 3rdly I having weird idle issues, I might have hooked up something incorrectly on the vacuum tubes, any suggestions are welcome.
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Well those two leaks have stopped for some reason, but I noticed a 2nd leak on the coolant pipe on the other side! I really should have used sealant I suppose, but live and learn. I adjusted the valves cold but this is what it sounds like warmed up, exhaust leak? Loud valves?
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
My memory is bad, so take it with a grain of salt. The 22R isn't a quiet engine. It sounds smooth but I guess more ticky than I remember. Maybe an exhaust tick.
I kind of hear some sort of hollow sound too. My original exhaust manifold developed a crack below the collector where the crimp bend is. There's also two doughnuts in the 'Y' collector, so double the chances for them to leak.
You did a whole new valvetrain, right? If the cam and followers are new then they have to break themselves in to each other, so there might be some of that going on.
Cold is the right way to clearance the valves.
I kind of hear some sort of hollow sound too. My original exhaust manifold developed a crack below the collector where the crimp bend is. There's also two doughnuts in the 'Y' collector, so double the chances for them to leak.
You did a whole new valvetrain, right? If the cam and followers are new then they have to break themselves in to each other, so there might be some of that going on.
Cold is the right way to clearance the valves.
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
When I adjusted them cold I did notice the valves were tighter than the feeler gauge so I had to adjust almost all of them. I have to take the exhaust manifold off today to get to that coolant pipe to seal it up so I'll take a look for cracks. Thank you for all your help! I didn't install any new valves
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Okay! I know stories need a happy ending so here is mine. I got it running and sealed all the leaks! I had to use FIPG on the water pipes coming out of the timing cover and welded up the exhaust leak on the downpipe. I gave it a quick bath and we're back in business! Thanks for all the help especially @DaveInDenver for the pep talks.
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Thought I would bring this post back to life. I haven been driving the pickup a lot due to the 80 being down. I'm hearing a whine from (what I think) is the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. When I pull off the hose it dumps fuel but the whine is gone. My question is this. Do you think its the regulator or perhaps the pump noise that is being telegraphed through the fuel/fittings?
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
If you put in earplugs and just drive the truck does it seem to start and run alright? Is fuel leaking anywhere?
If those things are true you might just be expecting Cruiser level quiet. If the sound seems to have changed suddenly that would be a different matter. Could it also be you've started driving with windows down in nice weather and just notice sounds that have always been there?
I'm not sure what noise could translate from the pump to the regulator since there's rubber hoses in between that would isolate them. Perhaps if the pump has pulsing or cavitation it could manifest in the regulator making a sympathetic noise. Like maybe a buzzing or fluttering. I'd think if anything the regulator would amplify injector noise.
What happens when you pull off the vacuum line from the regulator with it running? RPM should change.
There's a couple of VSVs in the circuit that might have some impact. One is part of the idle up for the A/C and the other is some sort of hot start vapor lock band-aid. If the RPM change that would indicate the regulator is still doing something. Some people just eliminate one or all VSVs in the circuit and run the regulator directly on manifold vacuum. You lose idle up features but can eliminate problems.
Not sure other than the fuel pump motor that would "whine" tho. Is it possible you have an EGR leak or something with the EGR modulator, e.g. exhaust noise? That's in the same area as the FPR.
If those things are true you might just be expecting Cruiser level quiet. If the sound seems to have changed suddenly that would be a different matter. Could it also be you've started driving with windows down in nice weather and just notice sounds that have always been there?
I'm not sure what noise could translate from the pump to the regulator since there's rubber hoses in between that would isolate them. Perhaps if the pump has pulsing or cavitation it could manifest in the regulator making a sympathetic noise. Like maybe a buzzing or fluttering. I'd think if anything the regulator would amplify injector noise.
What happens when you pull off the vacuum line from the regulator with it running? RPM should change.
There's a couple of VSVs in the circuit that might have some impact. One is part of the idle up for the A/C and the other is some sort of hot start vapor lock band-aid. If the RPM change that would indicate the regulator is still doing something. Some people just eliminate one or all VSVs in the circuit and run the regulator directly on manifold vacuum. You lose idle up features but can eliminate problems.
Not sure other than the fuel pump motor that would "whine" tho. Is it possible you have an EGR leak or something with the EGR modulator, e.g. exhaust noise? That's in the same area as the FPR.
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AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
Dave, thanks for your reply, you're the resident 22RE expert! It's honestly so loud that I can hear it even while driving on the highway. With the hood up it's incredibly noticeable. It also started doing this randomly, though I remember it doing it when I first bought it. I also thought about the windows thing, I think I would have noticed it prior. When I pull the vac line off, nothing happens! I actually was going to chase down that vac line and see what it connects to. I thought about that, but when I unplug the fuel line from the bottom, the wine is gone, even if the engine is still running.
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Not true, not by a long shot.
My hearing isn't great but I do hear your whistle. Hard to miss for sure.
To my ear it doesn't sound like it goes away with the vacuum line pulled but the engine RPM does change. The fuel pressure regulator seems to be working I think.
So how did you make it stop? But actually pulling the regulator off the fuel rail?
AdamKFarmer
Hard Core 4+
It doesn't go away with RPM changes, and I think it is working! I actually had some vac lines swapped that I fixed that seems to have everything working now. The way I got it to stop was pulling the black rubber "return" line, letting fuel dump out for a few seconds.