22R-E Chain Cost and Advice

[Red_Chili]

Came across this. Great tech from the demiurge of 22RE buildups hisself!
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=826336&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=all&fpart=1

 

[Red_Chili]

Sweet!!
I'm betting you're gonna be really happy with the improvement in power... Ted is quite good at porting those heads. It's really easy to over port the 22RE and make it run like crap for trail use.

 

[Seldom Seen]

AAAmetric on Lipan will have what you need.

 

[Rzeppa]

Dave, I *think* I have a 12x1.25 tap I got for chasing brake caliper mounting threads. They're about like hen's teeth, let me go go check and get back with you.

 

[Red_Chili]

Hey Dave, word to the wise: forget the head bolts. ARP studs are far superior. Reliable torque values, no worries about hydraulic lock, they guide the head on for reassembly, no stripped threads... no downside. Not that expensive either.

 

[Red_Chili]

...Also they don't have the necked down section near the top, which aligns with the rocker arm girdle were the oil flows through. This concerned me, so I talked to Ted about it. Seems sometimes the right combination of top end assembly can cause an oil starvation on the exhaust side of the cam because of the flow restriction. I just went with a new set of bolts, didn't want to be a test case. ARP says on a completely stock engine they'll probably be OK, but they could not say with the Topline Pro head casting that it would or wouldn't be an issue. They just never had tested that combo. The set cost $129 from Summit and a stock set of head bolts is about $50. Ted said he was working on a set of studs with the necked down section, so when he gets them sourced and ready I might replace them with a set of those....

Well, good to know! That there doesn't sound like paranoia, more like due diligence. Purdy block.

 

[Red_Chili]

Actually, you probably will not want to disturb your headgasket at that point in time...

 

[Uncle Ben]

Witchhunter rocks! I have nothing but the highest praise for them! Fast, easy to deal with, and reasonable in cost....."who could ask for anything more?"

 

[Red_Chili]

Gotta love a clean engine and engine bay! Drool....

 

[Red_Chili]

Hey, taking the oil filter apart ain't obsessive....








is it?

 

[Hulk]

That's weird. I don't have any good ideas, but no, you shouldn't expect a brand new engine to run like crap. It should be like a brand new car off the lot.

 

[Red_Chili]

Your rings will not seat until you romp on it. You may have missed the moment if you were too conservative on combustion pressures (skinny pedal). They will seat eventually, unless you use synthetic.

Aside from that, any possibility that a vacuum line is off, or misrouted?

I ran mine without the idle return dashpot with no issues (it was sticking, making a fast idle). Did you shim the head to make up for the loss of material? If not, possibly cam timing?

 

[Red_Chili]

Can't say about the rings. On first start I ran it unloaded for about 15 minutes varying between 2000 and 3000 RPM.

Full throttle seats the rings. It is the combustion pressure against new honing that does it. It is a fair assumption that yours are not seated yet.

Vacuum lines are certainly a concern. I labeled, drew sketches and snapped photos of everything. I didn't have any plumbing that didn't match a port in the end. Is it perfect? Shrug. I think my emissions stuff is hooked up right...

I'd start looking right there.

The block deck was not machined (it was brand new Toyota). The head is Engnbldr's brand new casting and so I assumed it was the same height as stock. Ted never recommended changing cam timing when I asked him and so I'm running stock timing gears. The head gasket is stock Toyota. Would a cam timing error manifest itself at idle or across all RPMs? If neither the block nor head were machined, how would I know how much to adjust the cam timing?

You would not need to. Sorry, I forgot you used a new casting.

I'm still not sure that my TPS is good. It's a few years old and I cleaned my TB with it still on. So it's possible that cleaner has contaminated or corroded the TPS PCB. I'm planning on replacing that as a matter of course. But I don't plan to shotgun any other parts besides that. Nothing during calibration or checkout pointed to it definitively, but so much of the ECU decisions are based on the TPS that I want to at least eliminate that.

4Crawler (the TLCA minitruck troubleshooter guy, Roger Brown) has a TPS procedure on his website that is bulletproof. I would not even replace the TPS unless it fails that test. You have something amiss, and most likely simple.

Change your oil soon.

 

[Red_Chili]

You're actually being harder on the motor than a 17 yr. old!
Google Motoman Break-in for an eye opener.

The problem with changing so many things is, your variables are multiplying. I would be very very hesitant to twiddle with the AFM, many 22REs have died that way. Check with Ted or Todd with your symptoms.

 

[Red_Chili]

Good instinct. Several folks have lost their ring lands doing two clicks on the AFM - as read on 4x4wire.com and confirmed with the victim and with Ted. Sumthin' else is going on. Didn't know you did Motoman, so it is unlikely to be your rings (even more unlikely, that is...).

 

[Red_Chili]

Speechless.

From a fellow over-thinker.....

 

[Evrgrnmtnman]

I'm curious how many miles it takes for the rings to seat in a Rebuilt motor. I have 3,800 miles and thought mine had seated. However, I had to add another quart of oil in this weekend. That makes 4.3 qts. with 3,800 miles on the engine. No visible leaks or plumes of smoke coming out???????????????????

 

[Red_Chili]

Should be seated within 1K miles, FAIK. Sooner with a Motoman break-in. Wouldn't run synth until 10K though.

 

[Evrgrnmtnman]

Should be seated within 1K miles, FAIK. Sooner with a Motoman break-in. Wouldn't run synth until 10K though.

So in other words, it's the block?

 

[Red_Chili]

Dunno. Could be so many things. *Probably* rings? Valve seals?