Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
X3 on Wes' and Stephen's recommendations. Crimp connections are fine up to around a couple amps on a non-critical application. Having been in electronics design and manufacturing for over 25 years, including over 15 years of quality assurance, I would NEVER recommend a crimp connection for that application.
A proper soldered connection will be many times more reliable and many times more efficient (from I2 losses calculation and measurement) than a crimp connection. They do not use crimp connections in satellites and other flight-approved and space qualified connections, you shouldn't either!
As Stephen wrote, you must preheat the connector (after sliding the heat-shrink up onto the cable, well past the heated area of course!), then tin it and the cable strands generously with rosen core solder. I use a propane torch for sufficient heat for 2 AWG to 00 AWG thickness applications, a regular solder gun can't make enough heat. Apply the solder to the cable strands at the interface between the connector and the strands, feed it in until it's filled. Wait until it's cooled to the touch, then slide the heat shrink over the exposed joint, heat and shrink. Voila! A mechanically and electrically sound joint that will last as long as your Toyota!
PS, while waiting for the molten solder to solidify, do not allow the joint to move even the slightest, or else you end up with a "cold" solder joint, negating the reliability advantages of a soldered joint over a crimped one.
A proper soldered connection will be many times more reliable and many times more efficient (from I2 losses calculation and measurement) than a crimp connection. They do not use crimp connections in satellites and other flight-approved and space qualified connections, you shouldn't either!
As Stephen wrote, you must preheat the connector (after sliding the heat-shrink up onto the cable, well past the heated area of course!), then tin it and the cable strands generously with rosen core solder. I use a propane torch for sufficient heat for 2 AWG to 00 AWG thickness applications, a regular solder gun can't make enough heat. Apply the solder to the cable strands at the interface between the connector and the strands, feed it in until it's filled. Wait until it's cooled to the touch, then slide the heat shrink over the exposed joint, heat and shrink. Voila! A mechanically and electrically sound joint that will last as long as your Toyota!
PS, while waiting for the molten solder to solidify, do not allow the joint to move even the slightest, or else you end up with a "cold" solder joint, negating the reliability advantages of a soldered joint over a crimped one.