I actually haven’t used it once. It is still sitting as parked in the first pic. It has soft brakes which I wanted to attend to before using it. But I’ve gotten stuck in an eternal loop of travel since the. (Funeral then holidays then work) so I haven’t done it. I owe a bunch of answers here still too. I was planning on working on it this weekend but the bitter cold killed those plans!
Abe,
Nice score! Sweet plow truck! Now you can plow the whole road in and charge your neighbors to pay for the truck?!?!?
Did it come with chains? Is it a Meyer Plow? Which engine is in it? It did come with a trans cooler from the factory but I’d confirm if still attached.
I don’t know your knowledge on plowing but you want to put the ballast behind the wheel wells in the bed of the truck. A good rule of thumb for ballast is to find out the weight of the plow and use the same weight for ballast.
Just like underwear you can get 4 uses out of the wear edge. Like it is now. Turn it around. Turn it upside down. Turn it around again.
I’ve got a Power Bleeder w/ multiple master cylinder attachments that you can borrow if you need it? Easiest way I’ve found to bleed brakes. Especially when doing it alone.
I know that it is a 360 engine, and I think (but don't know for sure) that it is a dana 44 front & dana 60 rear. that is just based on what people have said about other sno fiters online. I do know that they are 8 lug axles & a 16.5" rim, which is kind of a pain in the butt. I don't know a thing about the tranny & transfer, but, again, I have seen people say NP207 online. So I'm guessing at any rate.
That would be awesome if you can! The rims are 16.5" rims & the tires are 8.75r16.5LT which looks to be 29.5"x8.8" based on google
Thanks! Thats super helpful. I’ve got the attached on the rear of the driver’s fender. Not sure what the one unattached wire goes to yet. I don’t see anything that looks like it would be right. But it could be the culprit!
Mine fit a 31x10.50 pretty well so would be big for yours. But chains can be made smaller if you have the right tools.
www.ramchargercentral.com
When energized, I had just under 12volts at both the positive & negative terminals on the coil. A dodge electronics video said that meant that the control module wasn’t ground out for some reason. Rather than chase farther, I opted to just replace both it & the ballast resistor, plus some other odds & ends I still need to do. But the bottom line is!that looks like a “dual ballast” resistor ie 4 posts
Ballast Resistor Qusetion
Hello All! Got a problem here with my 71' W100. Made enough room in the garage for the truck to inhabit for the winter. Went back outside, started the truck ( had fired off on the first try after sitting two weeks ), got out of the cab and walked over to the garage door to lift it open. ...
can you see where on the control module next to it that green wire terminates to?
it seems similar to the attached, but that top left BR green wire should go to one pin of the control module connector and not splice off like that
but before all that the simple first check is with key on is there some voltage less than 12v at the coil or nah?
In the above pic, what is the white round thing, bottom right?that looks like a “dual ballast” resistor ie 4 posts
Ballast Resistor Qusetion
Hello All! Got a problem here with my 71' W100. Made enough room in the garage for the truck to inhabit for the winter. Went back outside, started the truck ( had fired off on the first try after sitting two weeks ), got out of the cab and walked over to the garage door to lift it open. ...
can you see where on the control module next to it that green wire terminates to?
it seems similar to the attached, but that top left BR green wire should go to one pin of the control module connector and not splice off like that
but before all that the simple first check is with key on is there some voltage less than 12v at the coil or nah?
