New Vehicles and 10k Oil Intervals

I will try to keep this from turning into "another oil thread". There are plenty of other places to discuss weight, brand, additives, ect.

The search for a 200 continues and as I browse carfax reports one thing that keeps standing out is the new Toyota 10k interval. I plan on sticking with 5k, and we do not need to get into a discussion on the merits either way here.

Where I am curious is how people are feeling now about purchasing higher mileage vehicles that have been on the 10k intervals. I have zero concerns getting a LC with 100k on the clock, but I am concerned when I see a 2017 that has only had 8 oil changes in as many years. Lots of members here have been purchasing newer Toyotas, so I am looking for some feedback here. It is hard to find a 1 or 2 owner 200 that has been on a 5k change interval its entire life. Is it that big of a deal? Should I not be scared of these vehicles only recieving a single oil change a year? Even if I was only driving 10k a year, or the vehicle was sitting, I would personally still change the oil every 6 months. Are these new full synthetic low viscosity oils that good? For what it is worth, we have done 5k intervals on the Tundra the last 40,000 miles. I think its hard to make the case its not worth the minimal cost.

What are the thoughts here? Go for it on a vehicle with a great history other than 10k changes, or try to find one that was babied with 5k.

My thought is, Toyota knows a lot more about longevity and dependability than I do, so if they say I'm supposed to go 10k miles on my 250 (and my wife's RAV4), who am I to question them? I will make two points though, one is that at 0W16 for hers and 0W20 for mine, obviously clearances are a lot tighter than my F and 2F engines. The other is that they do specifically call out full synth, which isn't the case for my old iron. I suppose the proper way to end any speculation would be to send a sample out for testing. I may do that at my 20k change, which will be some time this winter. I'm at about 17k right now and had the dealer do the 10k change within the window for complimentary scheduled maintenance.

I gave this some thought back when we started shopping for our Subaru. It worked out that the Subaru tax can be nearly as high as Toyota so we bought a new car. It gets 5W30 and 5K intervals, contrary to the owner's manual...

Anyway, it seems to me the fairly minimally invasive way you'd have to put your mind as ease is a used oil analysis and bore scope of the cylinder walls. Maybe compression test and oil pressure readings could give data point. Those are about all you can do without tearing the engine apart to inspect bearings and rings.

I'd suspect that if you follow the owner's manual the engine isn't likely to destroy itself within the factory warranty period. If we are to assume manufacturers are testing the margins they will certainly know how using ultra light oils for MPG and extended change intervals for convenience will affect the engine and they will not want them all coming back too soon for engines.

But you, me and most of us are getting these cars as they get close to or after their warranty ending and we expect them being Toyotas to still be solid at 250K and beyond. I have my doubts Toyota cares anymore about this, at least not to the extent they did a decade and more ago.

The advantage to the 200 is the 3UZ is an engine built under that old Toyota. I bet it could run dirty oil for 10k and still have minimal problems. If the seller can show receipts they just did the factory recommended services and it otherwise seems clean I wouldn't worry. I'd do a baseline and shorten the OCI to whatever you want thereafter. Honestly, you can't ever really know. Let's say an owner does 5K but uses cheap oil. Is that better than 10K on the good factory synthetic? Dunno.

What I'd worry about is the T24A and V35A. These can't even do the initial warranty period it seems. Those I think I'd like to see an owner who is more careful. I might pay a premium for one who does the break-in changes and 5k, too.

If you want to geek out Lake Speed, Jr. is a tribologist (e.g. chemical engineer with specialty lube certifications) who makes videos. Like this one where he talks about the break-in of his 2025 Tacoma that he bought to test a modern turbo engine. He's got other videos analyzing zero weight vs 5Wxx and 10Wxx, how intervals affect oil wear, etc. He does controlled testing on a dyno engine, consults with industry people at Valvoline, Amsoil, Redline, Shell and others. It's not as simple as do exactly this or that, black-and-white. How you use the car, which exact oil you use, environment, even the quality of gasoline all matter. The manual's numbers may in fact be completely acceptable. One thing, though, is the only downside to changing too frequently is the money it costs.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDxn3mRTOfg


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLPCJu90TbE

I have read the concerns about the oxidation and condensation caused by mostly short trips, so I try and make one of my runs at least 20 minutes every week or so on the highway. CarCareNut and the guy Dave posted have voiced concerns and recommend 5K oil changes

If you find a truck with good maintenance, no or little rust and less than 150K miles, I doubt I would be worried about 10K oil changes. Closer to 100K or less miles, I wouldnt be concerned, BUT I am not a mechanic, just a regular Joe who takes care of his rigs

My daughter Sarah's 100 series is 22 years old, she has owned it for 13 years and we have done 10K or yearly oil changes depending on what comes first with Mobil 1 Synth.

My Daughter Rachels GX470 is 20 years old and she has had it for 9 years and we have done the same.

My 2014 I have had 11 years and do the same change schedule

All 3 run perfectly. I doubt any have had 10K between oil changes since I retired 5 years ago

Not sure if this helped you or not

Thanks team.

I have a lead on a local truck with excellent history. 2017. 2 owner. 108k on the clock.

Looks like it got 10k changes until about 40k, then the 2nd owner switched to 5k intervals.

48k asking price seems pretty good. Checking it out in person tomorrow and if it looks good I will have Bighorn toyota do a PPI.

@Romer any other 200 pre purchase knowledge you can share? Excited to get into the platform.

I would expect the KDSS screws to be rusted. Mine were at 25K miles. I wouldnt let that bother you

Check see if any pink around the engine, have to left the plastic cover. I would ask him if He towed anything. You have to downshift from D to 5 or 6 or the truck will be hunting for the right gear up the mtn passes. Easy fix with Tranny flush and fill at that mileage

Look at CVs to make sure they are not leaking

If you change the in cabin filter, have to shut the HVAC off before turning truck off or could break assembly. Its in the glove box behind a panel easy to swap

Just normal get out your flashlight and climb through the truck

I hope it is what you are looking for

Great tips @Romer All already on my list. I have worked through most of your FAQ on Mud. Good stuff!

Bonus is that he had it serviced at my local Toyota dealer in Denver. 100k service was just done.

From what I read the KDSS components love rust and are a PITA but fixable.

I picked up a 2021 GX460 with 72k miles. First thing I did was a radiator fluid flush and oil change. As Romer mentioned the recommended advice of the Car Care nut.

DanInDenver said:

I picked up a 2021 GX460 with 72k miles. First thing I did was a radiator fluid flush and oil change. As Romer mentioned the recommended advice of the Car Care nut.

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Big fan of his channel!

If you have proof that the oil was actually changed I wouldn't worry about it especially on a 3UR engine and modern day synthetic oils. From oil analysis I have seen on both MUD and Tundras.com, you can easily go 10K or more on typical synthetics and still have plenty of additives remaining.

To me the most important thing is the break in of the motor and when the factory oil gets changed especially on turbo motors. The video Dave posted is great. The guy that makes those knows his stuff. I would definitely follow his advice for breaking in a modern day engine. As cheap as modern synthetics are, 65 bucks for a 4-5 quart jug pack of 0-20 at Costco, why not do it every 5k. I buy the filters from Stevinson. I can usually get 5 filters for 25 or something like that.

You can skip this part if you dont want to hear my rant.

@Rzeppa brought up a bit of a sensitive point for me, I am not hammering on Jeff, just responding to the idea of "if its in the manual to do 10k oil changes, who are we to question Toyotas testing and logic". I completely agree with this idea and based on the multiple Toyota vehicles I have owned over almost 30 years I wouldn't question it but after all of the issues the Tundra V35A is having and with what Toyota is claiming as "engine debris during the machining process" causing engine bearings to fail, I personally would never do 10k oil changes on the new Turbo engines. I have been lucky to this point with my 23 Tundra, I've had no issues at all but I also did not follow Toyotas recommendation to go 10k on the factory oil during break in. I changed mine at like 3K then had Toyota do my 2nd or first complementary oil change at the dealership. Maybe this save my engine by getting some of that crap out before it destroyed my bearings.

Well now this is a 200 pre purchase thread. Looks to be in pretty good shape on the bottom. Rear bumper will go so thats just more negotiating room.





















Need to see what that fluid on the front is.

KC Masterpiece said:

Well now this is a 200 pre purchase thread. Looks to be in pretty good shape on the bottom. Rear bumper will go so thats just more negotiating room.





















Need to see what that fluid on the front is.

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That looks pretty good to me. Those rear bumper issues will be gone with a Slee or other rear bumper

I ran some 10K intervals on my 80 series up until 253K when I had a full rebuild done on a lower mile donor engine.

When we pulled the original engine apart we didn’t like what we found on the cam bearing surfaces of the head. Crank and cylinder walls were OK. Now I know that engine called for shorter intervals but it got Mobil 1 when it probably never called for that like newer vehicles.

Bottom line is I change at 5K or sooner now on everything. And I’d struggle to buy a used 100,000 mile vehicle that didn’t see that level of service. Oil gets dirty regardless. Especially when vehicles see dirt roads. And if you look close the manual says 5K interval for severe duty.

Second to last pic check behind the mud flap and rear wheel. Look for any signs of corrosion. Seems that’s a hidden and overlooked area for corrosion. At least it is on 25 year old 100 series .

KC Masterpiece said:

Big fan of his channel!

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His video of his review of the 250 was one of the things that got me sold on the 250 (along with Kurt's too).