Guzzler/Not Megan Fox 1984 FJ60

MonPetiteShoe

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October 2024:
An idea was birthed in October 2024 at Dom and Brandi's wedding. We sat around a camp fire in Moab. We drank sake, Coors Banquet, and an relished in each other's company. @DanS wanted to sell his FJ60 that was big chillin' in NM (read more about it here.). I suggested we head out that way, get it running, and hammer back to CO with it in tow.

Chapter 1: Pickup in NM (December 2024)

The Plan: Arrive in NM, get the 60 started, and drive it onto the trailer. Easy as.

Out the gate, it wouldn't start, so we climbed the troubleshooting tree.

Check spark, check fuel. Spark was good. Fuel seemed to be a problem.

Fuel pump was pumpin'. Fuel lines/filter were a bit crusty. There was a good deal of varnish in the filter, and the same was true for the carb. The fuel stunk. Like... really stunk. We pulled the air horn to get access the fuel bowl, float, etc. There was varnish all up in that fuel bowl, and potentially everywhere else. We performed a hasty, shade tree cleaning, blew fuel back into the tank, plugged a funnel/good fuel into the pump inlet, and cranked. She started after a little coaxing. It was rough, but we had a running engine. There was much rejoicing.
1st pull.JPG

It was time for the first drive. It made it 20 ft down the driveway. We pulled the airhorn again and gave it another once over. More gnarly fuel. Eventually, after some head scratching, TLC, clean fuel, dinner... breakfast, more head scratching, and a more thorough teardown of the carb, we got it running well enough to drive around the neighborhood.
Carb.JPG
Gnarly as fuel bowl.

We loaded it on a trailer and boogied on up to CO after a couple good night's sleep. Somewhere in there, I had the privilege to drive/gawk at a BJ40, FJ40, HJ60(?) and sweet Dodge Power Wagon. It was a good weekend with good company.
Trailer.JPG

Chapter 2: Tune up and more troubleshooting

The intent was to get it running solid enough it could be a dedicated plow rig for Dan. We dropped it off at C&C HQ, so I could tinker with it on my days off. We pulled/ rebuilt the carb to get any remaining vanish/gunk out. Lean dropped the mixture and adjusted the idle. Tinkered with timing, swapped plugs, and ran down the "Engine Tune-up," section in the FSM. After the idle sat happy at 650 rpm at running temp, we adjusted valve lash. The FJ60 was running smooth. It was a good feeling. We swapped a few bits and bobs from other RS members.

Chapter 3: The Troubles.

The 60 had graduated to the "test drive," phase. I'd hold onto it for a couple weeks, drive it to/from work and update Dan on its "snow plowness." fast/slow idle, and mixture sat comfortable and the 60 hummed along. It was time for some longer test drives.

It did not make a long test drive. I made it a mile down the road, and I fought for the next hour to get it parked in a suitable spot. We jumped it, put some clean fuel in, and limped it back to the garage. The fuel filter was disgusting. More varnish and stinky fuel. The tank was in an abysmal state. The clutch release cylinder had also decided it was real tired, and dumped the majority of its fluid.

It sat for a few months. Work ramped up at the shop, other items ate up our collective time. It sat through Cruise Moab. May rolled around and it was time for Sara and I to get married (Semi-related).

Chapter 4: (Insert Next Chapter Title Here.)

After a fair amount of deliberation between Dan, Nancy, and Sara, the 60's next owner was decided. I would be its next caretaker. I don't have the words to express my gratitude. The plan is to keep it near stock and drive it. 60's have soul baby.

The first Item on the list: Swap the tank, suction/return tube, fuel level sender, soft lines, and clean the fuel system as best as possible.

Rusty fuel.JPG
Rusty as fuel...

Rusty tubes.JPG
The pickup/return tubes hinted at the state of the tank. Bonus mouse poop.

Newtankwhodis.JPG
New tank donated by an RS member/local. Installed with the aid of @Johnny Utah

There's still a few items that need to be addressed before it becomes the new fair weather daily driver:
  • Swap Clutch release cylinder. Bleed 'em.
  • Adjust fuel float in carb. We were overzealous in our previous adjustment.
  • Fuel Level sender. On order.
  • Heater valve. On order.
  • Driver window function. Parts on order.
  • Rebuild Knuckles
  • New Brakes. Bleed 'em.
  • Adjust E-brake
  • New tires. Installed.
Creature comfort items to address:
  • Long list of heater/vac hoses that could use some updating.
  • Rear lift gate stays (gas struts.)
  • Wipers.
  • Front Bumper (Donated by Telly)
  • Sand clear coat, apply poppy's patina.
  • Rust mitigation.
  • Passenger seat belt (Clean, service, or replace.).
  • It needs a cup holder(s)
  • It could use a radio with the bluetooths.
  • The list continues...
 
Last edited:

Notyourmomslx450

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nice score! congrats on the 60
 

KC Masterpiece

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Congrats! Ill hit you up if I am pulling any parts. I have a bunch of the smog spaghetti if you need any of it.
 

MonPetiteShoe

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Great write-up!
Thanks Matt! It was written using Chat-GPT. I think it did pretty good given the prompt was "I need to write a build/story thread for Rising Sun." hahah
Wah-hoo! I agree there’s something special about 60’s. So excited for ya!
Thanks Shawn.
nice score! congrats on the 60
Hell yea.
Welcome to the 60s, Josh and Sara. It was the best decade of my life. :p Funnest vehicle I've ever owned, too! Happy to help you sort the truck in any way that I can. Congratulations.
We'll be chatting about it here soon, I imagine.
Welcome to the dark side @MonPetiteShoe ❤️
It's going to be a labor of love.
Congrats! Ill hit you up if I am pulling any parts. I have a bunch of the smog spaghetti if you need any of it.
Emissions is going to be a point of contention, I understand that... It'll be a weird ride. That might need to be a whole 'nother thread.
I haven't dove into the EGR/Air injection on this rig yet, so there'll be plenty of gotcha's in there.
 

DanS

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  • Rebuild Knuckles

You’ll like that part. Those knuckles were rebuilt with powder coated knuckles and arms, and all new hardware. Easiest knuckle rebuild on a rusty truck ever!

The pleasure is all ours! @SaintAgatha and I don’t need another truck anytime soon, and Guzzler is such a sweetheart to drive and I saw your smile riding around in her. I can’t wait to see you guys out on the trail with it! Or just the trail up to our place with the pups!

Dan
 

Crash

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You’ll like that part. Those knuckles were rebuilt with powder coated knuckles and arms, and all new hardware. Easiest knuckle rebuild on a rusty truck ever!

The pleasure is all ours! @SaintAgatha and I don’t need another truck anytime soon, and Guzzler is such a sweetheart to drive and I saw your smile riding around in her. I can’t wait to see you guys out on the trail with it! Or just the trail up to our place with the pups!

Dan
Sounds like the makings of a 60s party to me. Would love to see the cabin and the 60 and at the same time would be a gas. Guzzler.
 

MonPetiteShoe

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The saga continues:

Boring work that I've chipped away at in the last few months:
  • Swap Clutch release cylinder. Bleed 'em.
  • Adjust fuel float in carb. We were overzealous in our previous adjustment. Float adjusted.
  • Fuel Level sender. On order. I can now see how quickly the fuel is used...
  • Heater valve. On order. Replaced.
  • Driver window function. Parts on order. New Window Regulator installed.
  • Rear lift gate stays (gas struts.) Rear lift gate attempts to knock me unconscious every time I get something from the back.
  • Wipers. "I can see clearly now, the rain is gone."
  • Front Bumper
As of 10/15/2025
I attempted to drive Guzzler home from C&C HQ on Wednesday... I've been experiencing intermittent charge issues from the Alternator. It finally gave up the ghost. It was dead as.

I hot swapped a new Napa unit during lunch and ran it home after work on Thursday with only one minor issue. After sustained highway travel the carb starts to act a bit funny, i.e. it won't hold idle and has a faint power drop under sustained throttle. (Constant throttle input does not return constant forward movement/consistent combustion at the cylinders.) I suspect unmetered air and/or fuel leakage around the throttle valve dowels, carb insulator and it's gaskets. Confirmed by presence of fuel at base of the carb, and bubbling from the carb base gaskets under idle. Unsealed AF.

Solution:
New carb base gaskets on order.
I have a mo'betta functioning carb courtesy of @IH8RUST.
Install carb.
Tune Carb.
Take it for a ride.
Crack a cold one.
Maybe rebuild original carb...

Next problem:
Everything behind the dash is covered in mouse poo/pee concrete. The heater/evap core, vents, controls, wiring all have a combined total of 6lbs of mouse peepeepoopoo on them.

IMG_3675[1].JPG

IMG_3676[1].JPG
Solution:
Procure a hazmat suit and respirators.
Pull the dash, vents, heater/evap core and install "new," everything and/or attempt to sanitize existing equipment. I've got a line on some used 60 series HVAC equipment courtesy of @timmbuck2.

Friday/Saturday I pulled the dash apart, but have stopped short of pulling the Heater core. I need a 180 degree tube to seal the line in/out for the heater core. I need the 60 running for the time being, but it doesn't need heat.

I'll need to pull the new heater core from Tim's part 60 here soon and get it all mated to its new host.

A couple "While I'm in there's:" New dashpad, new single DIN radio with this new technology called "Bluetube... Bluebteeh... Bluetooths."

Parts on order:
New dashpad from Cruiser Corps.
70 series rear view mirrors. FJ60 mirrors are abyssmal..

Still on the hunt for an interior rear view mirror.
 

timmbuck2

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I have a used mirror too 😁
 

Cruisertrash

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Messages
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The saga continues:

Boring work that I've chipped away at in the last few months:
  • Swap Clutch release cylinder. Bleed 'em.
  • Adjust fuel float in carb. We were overzealous in our previous adjustment. Float adjusted.
  • Fuel Level sender. On order. I can now see how quickly the fuel is used...
  • Heater valve. On order. Replaced.
  • Driver window function. Parts on order. New Window Regulator installed.
  • Rear lift gate stays (gas struts.) Rear lift gate attempts to knock me unconscious every time I get something from the back.
  • Wipers. "I can see clearly now, the rain is gone."
  • Front Bumper
As of 10/15/2025
I attempted to drive Guzzler home from C&C HQ on Wednesday... I've been experiencing intermittent charge issues from the Alternator. It finally gave up the ghost. It was dead as.

I hot swapped a new Napa unit during lunch and ran it home after work on Thursday with only one minor issue. After sustained highway travel the carb starts to act a bit funny, i.e. it won't hold idle and has a faint power drop under sustained throttle. (Constant throttle input does not return constant forward movement/consistent combustion at the cylinders.) I suspect unmetered air and/or fuel leakage around the throttle valve dowels, carb insulator and it's gaskets. Confirmed by presence of fuel at base of the carb, and bubbling from the carb base gaskets under idle. Unsealed AF.

Solution:
New carb base gaskets on order.
I have a mo'betta functioning carb courtesy of @IH8RUST.
Install carb.
Tune Carb.
Take it for a ride.
Crack a cold one.
Maybe rebuild original carb...

Next problem:
Everything behind the dash is covered in mouse poo/pee concrete. The heater/evap core, vents, controls, wiring all have a combined total of 6lbs of mouse peepeepoopoo on them.

IMG_3675[1].JPG

IMG_3676[1].JPG
Solution:
Procure a hazmat suit and respirators.
Pull the dash, vents, heater/evap core and install "new," everything and/or attempt to sanitize existing equipment. I've got a line on some used 60 series HVAC equipment courtesy of @timmbuck2.

Friday/Saturday I pulled the dash apart, but have stopped short of pulling the Heater core. I need a 180 degree tube to seal the line in/out for the heater core. I need the 60 running for the time being, but it doesn't need heat.

I'll need to pull the new heater core from Tim's part 60 here soon and get it all mated to its new host.

A couple "While I'm in there's:" New dashpad, new single DIN radio with this new technology called "Bluetube... Bluebteeh... Bluetooths."

Parts on order:
New dashpad from Cruiser Corps.
70 series rear view mirrors. FJ60 mirrors are abyssmal..

Still on the hunt for an interior rear view mirror.
Lookin' good my man.

Opinion: the euro 60 mirrors look better than the 62 mirrors. That's just me...
Fact: Pretty sure rear view mirrors are still available from Toyota, albeit only in one color and not the different colors the trucks came with new. Maybe it's only gray available and not ivory?
Question: Is your secondary opening? Because that's a whole thing with these carbs.
 

Crash

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Messages
4,714
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Lookin' good my man.

Opinion: the euro 60 mirrors look better than the 62 mirrors. That's just me...
Fact: Pretty sure rear view mirrors are still available from Toyota, albeit only in one color and not the different colors the trucks came with new. Maybe it's only gray available and not ivory?
Question: Is your secondary opening? Because that's a whole thing with these carbs.
Easy carb test with a paperclip.
 

MonPetiteShoe

RS Club Commander
Cruise Moab Committee
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Messages
743
Location
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Lookin' good my man.

Opinion: the euro 60 mirrors look better than the 62 mirrors. That's just me...
Fact: Pretty sure rear view mirrors are still available from Toyota, albeit only in one color and not the different colors the trucks came with new. Maybe it's only gray available and not ivory?
Question: Is your secondary opening? Because that's a whole thing with these carbs.
Thanks man! I've got some 70 series mirrors coming from City Racer. Ease of access on that purchase. They'll get the job done. I agree with the Euro mirrors, they look fresh to death.

MIRROR-INSIDE: 87810-90A03
$85-$126
I ain't mad at that. I see them on non-Toyota sites for more than that and they're mostly out of stock. Toyota it may be.
If Tim's falls through for some reason, I'll go that route.

Secondary discussion:
I can dig into that when I pull the old carb and replace it with my spare. Gaskets show up today. The replacement carb functioned well before we pulled it from the same model 2F.

It's an intermittent issue, and it tends to only happen after it's been running for a while. It runs well under part throttle/open throttle operations, until it's been running on the highway for a bit.
Another note: At start up I'll have a dry carb base. After it's been running a while the base and pin that runs through the primary have some fuel on them.

Edit after looking at the Manual.

I see what you're talking about. If fuel is being metered into the Secondary, but the valve isn't opening, it would collect fuel and possibly seep through the rod going through the 1st (Primary) or 2nd (Secondary) throttle valve (12 and 13 in the diagram below.)

1761051313894.png

We can tear into it on a shop weekend, haha. Sounds like throwing the diaphragm into vacuum should actuate/not actuate the secondary.
I don't fully understand the paperclip method, but I'd be willing to give 'er a test. (Although the carb in question my no longer be attached to the 2F.)

Yes. Yes we can. We have tyvek suits. We have gloves. We have respirators. And I have experience with this. :ROFLMAO:

Dan
I could certainly use a hand/PPE if you've got it to spare. The timeline for the deepclean is... Eventually.
I've got a bunch of dash/spare parts currently sitting inside the cab. There's not a lot of room to play with.

Adding to the complication is a potential home purchase in the next few weeks-month. It puts a lot of things in flux, but I should have a warm garage to keep things going.

I need some good methods for cleaning peepeepoopoo concrete.
I was thinking about using a pressure washer on the heater vents/plumbing. The hard part is all the nooks and crannies on the metal sub-dash-parts and ancillaries.
I'll probably end up pulling the carpet to check the floor, clean, and killmat at some point.
 
Last edited:

Cruisertrash

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@MonPetiteShoe I was asking about the secondary not because I think that is likely to be the source of your issue, but just as a general question since it seems like the majority of FJ60 Aisin carb secondaries don't work. Here's a deep dive: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/aisin-secondary-tuning-ideas.1357784/

Paperclip test:
1. Get a paperclip and stick it on the rod for the secondary vacuum diaphragm. You're gonna have to contort your hand to get it in there.
2. Push it snug up against the bottom of the secondary vac pot (the cast metal housing that contains the diaphragm).
3. Go for a test drive. If your secondary is fully functioning you'll find that the paperclip is 10-12mm lower on the rod.
N.B.: When the secondary vac diaphragm is sucked in, it pulls the rod up. The cast metal housing that holds the diaphragm essentially "scrapes" the paperclip as the diaphragm rod is pulled into the metal housing. When you're off the throttle the diaphragm relaxes (since there's no more vac pulling on it) and the rod moves back out - now with the paperclip in its lower position. Anything less than 10mm means the secondary butterfly isn't fully opening, and really 12mm is what you want to see.

Other sneaky things to watch out for on these particular carbs:
-Between the base and middle section is a bakelite spacer. The surface is a bonded gasket, and if that is messed up it will cause problems. If it's damaged you can scrape it off and use paper gaskets that come in some of the rebuild kits, but most of those paper gaskets have a small area that's incorrect and leaks vacuum. It's really best to just find another spacer with good bonded gasket material.
-The spacer can be put in 180 degrees out and cause a vac leak (particularly on the secondary circuit, but also for other circuits).
-If the ported screw that goes into the bottom of the carb isn't in tight it can cause leaks, potentially intermittent.
-The throttle shafts on most of these carbs leak at this point. There really isn't a solution unless you're a machinist, it requires custom fab and installation of interference fit parts.
-The secondary slow cut valves on ALL of these carbs leak. That's the small plunger-and-arm thing on the driver side of the carb when it's installed (the side facing away from the valve cover). There's a fix for this on Mud - remove, tap, and thread in a very specific bolt. If you do the fix wrong it can make the carb not work.
-The accelerator pump will leak unless you use a brand new one with a leather seal. Rubber seal plungers seem to all leak pretty quickly.

If fuel is being metered into the Secondary, but the valve isn't opening
Venturi effect. The carb is only going to pull the fuel it needs. It can't forcefully meter fuel if there's no airflow. It's the same way with current in electricity - a device is only going to draw the current it wants, you can't force current into something.

It's an intermittent issue, and it tends to only happen after it's been running for a while.
That sounds like metal/expansion/contraction to me. Could be in the carb, but I'd more so suspect the manifolds. I swear the 2F was designed to leak by the Toyota engineers as some kind of sick joke. All these guys out here 40 years later trying to get these damn things to seal up, meanwhile the engineers are rolling on the floor of the Toyota HQ offices laughing their asses off.
 

Crash

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Joined
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Messages
4,714
Location
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@MonPetiteShoe I was asking about the secondary not because I think that is likely to be the source of your issue, but just as a general question since it seems like the majority of FJ60 Aisin carb secondaries don't work. Here's a deep dive: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/aisin-secondary-tuning-ideas.1357784/

Paperclip test:
1. Get a paperclip and stick it on the rod for the secondary vacuum diaphragm. You're gonna have to contort your hand to get it in there.
2. Push it snug up against the bottom of the secondary vac pot (the cast metal housing that contains the diaphragm).
3. Go for a test drive. If your secondary is fully functioning you'll find that the paperclip is 10-12mm lower on the rod.
N.B.: When the secondary vac diaphragm is sucked in, it pulls the rod up. The cast metal housing that holds the diaphragm essentially "scrapes" the paperclip as the diaphragm rod is pulled into the metal housing. When you're off the throttle the diaphragm relaxes (since there's no more vac pulling on it) and the rod moves back out - now with the paperclip in its lower position. Anything less than 10mm means the secondary butterfly isn't fully opening, and really 12mm is what you want to see.

Other sneaky things to watch out for on these particular carbs:
-Between the base and middle section is a bakelite spacer. The surface is a bonded gasket, and if that is messed up it will cause problems. If it's damaged you can scrape it off and use paper gaskets that come in some of the rebuild kits, but most of those paper gaskets have a small area that's incorrect and leaks vacuum. It's really best to just find another spacer with good bonded gasket material.
-The spacer can be put in 180 degrees out and cause a vac leak (particularly on the secondary circuit, but also for other circuits).
-If the ported screw that goes into the bottom of the carb isn't in tight it can cause leaks, potentially intermittent.
-The throttle shafts on most of these carbs leak at this point. There really isn't a solution unless you're a machinist, it requires custom fab and installation of interference fit parts.
-The secondary slow cut valves on ALL of these carbs leak. That's the small plunger-and-arm thing on the driver side of the carb when it's installed (the side facing away from the valve cover). There's a fix for this on Mud - remove, tap, and thread in a very specific bolt. If you do the fix wrong it can make the carb not work.
-The accelerator pump will leak unless you use a brand new one with a leather seal. Rubber seal plungers seem to all leak pretty quickly.


Venturi effect. The carb is only going to pull the fuel it needs. It can't forcefully meter fuel if there's no airflow. It's the same way with current in electricity - a device is only going to draw the current it wants, you can't force current into something.


That sounds like metal/expansion/contraction to me. Could be in the carb, but I'd more so suspect the manifolds. I swear the 2F was designed to leak by the Toyota engineers as some kind of sick joke. All these guys out here 40 years later trying to get these damn things to seal up, meanwhile the engineers are rolling on the floor of the Toyota HQ offices laughing their asses off.
Good review, Jim. I've been saying it for years, Toyota engineers, when they were designing the early 40s, were trying to get even for WWII. Tight spaces where fat American fingers won't fit on a bolt, etc. I've seen just as bad, if not worse, on American vehicles too.
 
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