Tie Rod/TRE Upgrade; How can I use FJ80 TRE's on the Pass side?

teamextreme

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Well I'm not getting any responses on Mud, so maybe some local Cruiser brainiacs can help me out....
(this is on a '76 FJ40)
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I've searched and found lots of info on upgrading the steering system, but I haven't been able to find the info I'm looking for. I have a saginaw converted system now, with stock tie rod and ends, and stock drag link re-threaded to fit a CJ7 TRE at the saginaw pitman arm. I have pretzled the tie rod and drag link and now want to upgrade to some 1 ton hardware throughout. My choices are

1. use GM 1 ton stuff, as shown on PartsMike website, which looks like it will work identically because GM has a similar TRE with the hole for the drag link as the stock Toy setup.

or 2. Use FJ80 TRE's.

I would like to do #2, and doing some research found the Bud Built rods and their website says they are threaded to fit FJ80 TRE's and will bolt right up. After some more research and calling them I found out this is not correct, as FJ80 TRE's will not fit in the stock steering arms. Problem is, I already bought FJ80 TRE's expecting to go this route as I would prefer to keep it as much Toyota as I can (plus 80 TRE's are actually bigger than GM). I realize in order to use the bigger TRE's, regardless of which one I pick, I will need either aftermarket or FJ60 arms.

My question is: what part do I use for a 23mm passenger side TRE with the tapered hole to accept the drag link TRE similar to the stock setup? FJ80's appear to have something similar, but it is meant for a steering stabilizer to bolt thru so may not be tapered and I think it's on the driver's side so the thread may be the wrong hand. Will one of these work? I hear of people using the FJ80 TRE's but how do you get around this issue? I know about the 4x4 labs rear high steer arms which would eliminate the need for the special TRE I'm searching for, but I'm not willing to part with $300 for a set of steering arms. And I'd rather not use a hodge-podge of GM & Toy TRE's (even though that describes my whole rig) for the steering.
 

nuclearlemon

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sorry, can't help you. i've got 80 ends on three rigs, but all have hi steer. :hill:
 

Uncle Ben

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Keep what you have already bought and take your stock arms to a full service machine shop so they can make the correct taper hole for you. 1 ton chitty and 80's are very similar with the difference being metric vrs SAE threads. I think the taper is the same (85% positive).
 

Red_Chili

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Taper is not the same for chebbies and 80s in the minitruck world at least... but UB is right, retapering is no big deal. IIRC FrontRangeOffRoadFab.com even sells a taper reamer sized exactly for FJ80 TREs! They are all the rage in the mini world.
 

teamextreme

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Well that might help in not having to buy new arms, but I was under the impression based on some threads on Mud that you shouldn't drill out the stock arms for the larger TRE's because they would be left with too little material. You needed to go with 60 arms (and knuckles to fit them) or aftermarket. Anyway, that still doesn't solve my problem with the missing part for the passenger side TRE, the one with the hole for the drag link. Anyone?
 

Uncle Ben

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Taper is not the same for chebbies and 80s in the minitruck world at least... but UB is right, retapering is no big deal. IIRC FrontRangeOffRoadFab.com even sells a taper reamer sized exactly for FJ80 TREs! They are all the rage in the mini world.

Good to know....thanks Bill!
 

Red_Chili

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If you need knuckles, these might work for ya:
Front Range Used Parts

I asked Brian about the reamer, if he still sells them or if I just pulled that one out of ... an old beer keg fridge.
 

Red_Chili

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From Brian at Front Range:
We dont sell the reamers, but we can retaper arms in house. If he is
running old small pattern knuckles, I would swap to PU knuckles and arms,
they are stronger. Even if he's running large pattern, I would look into
PU arms. I believe Ive got some stock steering arms as well. The PU arms
are considerably larger and stronger than 40 stuff.

Brian
 
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