The dead FJ60

[Cruisertrash]

Thank you very much for the input! Sounds like I’ll go the easier route and pull the transmission and stab the it all in as one unit. I borrowed a load leveler which gave me a great deal of confidence in getting the engine to the right angle and such but I think I’ll be better off dropping the whole unit in. Should make for a fun afternoon!
For the spaghetti, I’m also going to replace the lines to ensure there’s no leaks. Any recommendations on a good replacement line? Now that you mention looking at one as a reference I definitely can do that thanks to Tim having a good running 60 at his shop.

OEM vac hose all day long. Better fit on the vac nipples. Comes in different lengths with corresponding part numbers. Find the p/n for the 900mm lengths and buy a bunch, 45' or so. The larger 5.5mm lines I use Belmetric. They have a good selection of silicone, gucci euro-style cloth-braided, etc. Definitely get metric as the SAE dimensioned stuff is either way too tight (great way to break off plastic vac valve nipples) or too loose (leaks). FYI while you're replacing vacuum lines to eliminate leaks, get two of these: 90925-03192. They replace the similar looking black & white VCVs - all of which I've ever tested are bad and leak vacuum. Every single one. None of them made it to 2025 in working condition.

The only benefit I see to leaving smog stuff off is that some of the parts are impossible to find in working condition (hey, they've been in service almost 50 years) and others are expensive to rebuild. Desmogging doesn't make a 2F a rocket ship, but it has benefits with respect to parts availability.

@MonPetiteShoe Under the knife??? Do tell...

 

[LoafNvi733]

Update: donor engine installed, now tomorrow I plan to begin reconnecting everything and crossing off my list. Here’s a question: for the slave clutch cylinder my current one won’t align with the mounting holes. It’s almost like the fork is not set correctly or something? However it definitely is because it wouldn’t have fit in and everything aligned correctly.. time to do some digging on the interwebs.

 

[MDH33]

The only benefit I see to leaving smog stuff off is that some of the parts are impossible to find in working condition (hey, they've been in service almost 50 years) and others are expensive to rebuild. Desmogging doesn't make a 2F a rocket ship, but it has benefits with respect to parts availability.

I think the biggest benefit of desmogging is that most issues that cause poor running are emissions/smog equipment related, and its a huge PITA to troubleshoot and work on any of it, (and expensive and hard to find like you mentioned)

I've owned 2 FJ60's over the past 20 years and I can only think of 4 times I've had a "break down" or been stranded. 3 were smog equipment related.

 

[LoafNvi733]

I think the biggest benefit of desmogging is that most issues that cause poor running are emissions/smog equipment related, and its a huge PITA to troubleshoot and work on any of it, (and expensive and hard to find like you mentioned)

I've owned 2 FJ60's over the past 20 years and I can only think of 4 times I've had a "break down" or been stranded. 3 were smog equipment related.

I think my plan is to desmog once it’s got plates

 

[LoafNvi733]

Been tinkering all day on the FJ! As the wife knows, once I’m steadfast to start fixing something it’s hard to get me to stop. I got it running in some carb clean but I think the fuel tank is just too varnished up even after draining and adding 5 gallons of good stuff. Any advice?

 

[RDub]

Are you getting fuel into the float bowl? Maybe the fuel pump is fubar?

 

[LoafNvi733]

Are you getting fuel into the float bowl? Maybe the fuel pump is fubar?

Brand new fuel pump! I’m thinking the gas i added wasn’t enough to offset the 12+ year old varnish. I’m still dialing in the vac lines too but man, it’s a mess. I think I got the gross majority of them correct but it’s not wanting to run by itself. I’ve read that I should go for a 1:3 gallon ratio. I picked up some sea foam and will grab more fuel tomorrow morning and add both and see what happens. The good is I definitely don’t have a blown engine anymore!

 

[LoafNvi733]

Looking for some advice. Got the rig “running” on the choke circuit, but as soon as I start dropping the choke out it wants to die. I’m 70% sure I got most of the vacuum lines correct an I’m leaning towards it’s still not happy with the bad gas even after I added 5 more gallons of premium to help offset the bad stuff. I was able to install and fill the coolant system and got a belt for the water pump. What am I missing with my no idle/only running on choke? I’m feeling more confident that she will be moving soon so that is a major benefit! The window on the carb shows gas, albeit brown/not champagne color. Should I dump the 10 gallons of gas I put in it and start fresh again?

 

[RDub]

Is this happening only at idle or also with the throttle open? Maybe the decel cut solenoid is bad? Clogged passages in the carb? Has it warmed up when the choke is closed, or is this when cold? If warm the choke gets disconnected once warmed up, and the choke only acts as a throttle control at that point. Lots could be going on here.

 

[MDH33]

Did you drain the fuel tank to begin? If it was cruddy/rusty, you probably already sucked garbage into the carb so the idle circuit is probably clogged. How does the fuel filter look?

 

[LoafNvi733]

Did you drain the fuel tank to begin? If it was cruddy/rusty, you probably already sucked garbage into the carb so the idle circuit is probably clogged. How does the fuel filter look?

I drained any varnish I could from the tank before adding new fuel. The filter (replaced with a cintered bronze filter) definitely had some gunk after running for a bit on the choke. I took the top cover off the carb, cleaned and blew out the jets and the accompanying portals, this gave me a no change situation. However, one thing I did notice is that this plunger is leaking when I blow carb clean through it.. I’m not sure what its purpose is and there’s not much in the way of information on the interwebs about it. Nothing looked overly filthy in the carb.
Issues at this point: runs rough, but could be attributed to varnish breaking loose with the addition of high test gas and sea foam.
Will run by itself with no interference from me on choke but as soon as I kick the choke off it stumbles and dies.

 

[LoafNvi733]

On that note, anyone near Arvada that may be able to put eyes on it besides me I would forever be in debt to you! Lol

 

[LoafNvi733]

I got her running and actually idling pretty well. Just as I was about to throw in the towel for the day, she gave me a little glimmer of hope. I know it's gonna run rough for this tank however it no longer only runs on the choke. I replaced nearly all of the vac lines, and noticed a line that goes over the engine and to the other side, initially I thought it was a breather but then I remembered it carried over to the other side. Pics related! Also, I’m fairly new to the 80s era of cars what’s the valve that’s attached to the end of the line highlighted? As soon as I put that on it idle and I have a full range of power from the carb! Super grateful for @timmbuck2 for allowing me to run over to his FJ60s for misc parts and for things like reference pictures. The emissions control manual came in clutch but I’m still lost when it comes to each parts purpose. Time to have a cold drink and watch a movie!

 

[SteveH]

Also, I’m fairly new to the 80s era of cars what’s the valve that’s attached to the end of the line highlighted?

The yellow circled affair is the PCV valve and hose - 'positive crankcase ventilation'. The hose and valve maintain a vacuum on the crankcase to pick up vapor and blow-by from the engine, keeping the oil clean. The system also prevents liquid oil from being sucked up the hose into the intake.

The PCV valve (which is press-fit into the side cover and has the hose attached to it) should rattle when removed and shaken, and should pass air in only one direction. The system is pretty bulletproof on 2F engines, but should be left in place and not deleted. The valve can be cleaned, but if extra scuzzy, should be replaced.

Good writeup on the history and science of all this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system

 

[LoafNvi733]

Took a little break from the 60 since returning to work yesterday. Tonight I popped the fuel sending unit out and it’s totally fried. Now the grand question, where do I dispose of 15 gallons of absolutely gnarly gasoline?

 

[LoafNvi733]

Alrighty! The fun stuff.. I’m working to install my OME CS001R on the 60 and for the life of me I cannot get the rear shackles to align properly. No matter how hard I try, even jacking into the frame with the spring it just won’t align properly. I’m at a loss here.

 

[RDub]

Are you talking about fore/aft or lateral alignment? When I installed my OME springs on my 60 I did it by myself and battled the rears for hours before finally getting both hung. Unfortunately, I can’t remember how I did it or what the issues were, I just remember being immensely frustrated by it and feeling totally worked at the end of the day.

 

[LoafNvi733]

Well, after more digging and a lot of b*tching i learned these springs are not for a 60… but they fit a 40… what’s even more frustrating is I verified with the VIN that these would fit. This is the closest I could get before calling the part shop I bought from.

 

[RDub]

That explains it! Sucks, a lot of work down the drain. Sorry, man.

 

[LoafNvi733]

That explains it! Sucks, a lot of work down the drain. Sorry, man.

Definitely a buzz kill. Listed them for sale here and marketplace for 55 less than I paid. The company I bought from wants me to pay for shipping and that’s gonna be at minimum 100 bucks