t-case removal

[subzali]

I think I figured out why my t-case was leaking so much - the front output nose cone didn't have a gasket between it and the body of the t-case!

I would like to inspect my gear real quick to make sure they didn't get toasted from running out of oil, but it looks like the t-case is kindof a pain to pull - could I just remove the PTO cover and look inside? Or should I just buckle up and pull the t-case and open up the top inspection cover? Any tricks? From the FSM, it looks like after I take the 5 bolts off if should just slide off, but then reading Jeff's resto page there's a bunch of stuff that has to get installed as you put the t-case back on...hmmm I'll probably just bite the bullet and do it.

 

[MDH33]

I've seen a few threads on MUD about cutting off the cross member and welding flanges onto it so that you can bolt it back on. Seems like a good idea if your going to be doing a lot of work on the TC and trans.

 

[Red_Chili]

FWIW, I would worry more about the bearings than the gears with lack of lube. Possibly including the needle bearings in the gears if it ran too long, though they are the last to go (if LC tcases even use them, dunno).

 

[subzali]

I'm not sure if there are needle bearings or just ball bearings - it was still dripping a lot of oil (probably another cupful after I stopped) when I pulled up in the parking lot, and there were a few minutes of 60-65 and then a few more of 35-45 after the plug fell out. Martin - I think the removable crossmember has to do more with guys running non-stock drivetrains...I'm pretty sure the t-case will come off just fine in the stock configuration.

 

[treerootCO]

The gasket behind the nose cone has a part in setting the preload on the bearings. There are shims that sit between the bearing and the spedometer housing that press the bearings together. If you add a gasket, you will need to also add shims to the opposite side.

The output shaft must have a resistance of 10-20 in./lbs. of torque. If using a fish or pull scale coupled to a brake drum bolt a 10 to 13 pound measurement should be obtained.

http://www.root45.com/SM465Orion/Orion.pdf
page 10

more reading:
http://www.root45.com/SM465Orion/index2.html

 

[nuclearlemon]

I've seen a few threads on MUD about cutting off the cross member and welding flanges onto it so that you can bolt it back on. Seems like a good idea if your going to be doing a lot of work on the TC and trans.

why would you nee dto cut the cross member? are we talking about the fj40? if so, removing the t case is easy, but you can just pull the side cover and shine a flashlight in and probably see the gears well enough. if everything sounds/feels good when your spinning it (pull driveshafts and put in 4wd), than the bearing should be ok.

 

[MDH33]

I was thinking that you couldn't pull the trans and tc easily with the engine in place because the cross member was in the way. Good to know it can be done easily. I have to replace my rear main seal at some point too...

 

[subzali]

I get a loud bearing-type sound when I am running in 4hi (not a recent problem - been happening for a couple winters) and go from on the throttle to off the throttle, but when I spin the front output bearings they feel fine. I'm hoping I can see something amiss once I take a closer look at what's going on in the t-case.

 

[treerootCO]

Any slop in the bearings would make them chatter. You would hear a high pitched whine when you are off the throttle.

 

[subzali]

That sounds about right. I'll check out all that stuff as I put it back together then.

 

[Shark Bait]

I had to cut or notch the cross member in my 69 to install the T-case. That's because it's behind an SM420.